Bluemonkey presents....

Foolishly I was in too much of a hurry to get the primer on and didn't attach the roof. With the decision made to now have to glue in place clear windows it will be. Honestly some people! 😉

Brake detail is much easier to see now primed. Handrails much better in wire than flat etc. Step boards added and primed, thought I was there but forgot me buffers! I really like this kit and has some lovely details included, such as the lamp irons and rivet detail also included are some GWR works plates. These will be painted separately and then added to the sole bar. What does strike me as odd or even disappointing is the lack of window ledges for the glass windows. The boarded one has this included but I have had to use some 'waste' brass fret to fabricate them and a real faff to solder these on. I would think it would be easy to included the on the etch as a 90 degree bend (much like the lamp irons). A detail probably more noticeable if not on the model than if on but something that surely could have been included with ease. Now for the roof. This has been half etched in order to aid the shaping of the roof. Will have ago with this but expecting to swap out of a flat piece of brass as the etch lines will show underneath and not sure this will appear right. Time to hit the books again.

Only managed the replacement hand rails for the sides last night. Fiddly to get them in position and shaped especially as a single piece of wire but got there in the end. I figured that if I used numerous lengths for each sequence then I would be running the risk of damage when in service. Decided to remove the door hand rails and replace as well as adding the central handrail for the stable door, a job for later on. I note the author of the instructions and provider of the pictures has also replaced these.

I do like using brass and certainly the end result but I can not help the itch to get back to some pre-printed wagons.

Next up the wheel arrangements. The come is effectively in two sections; the wagon body and the W-irons. With the sole-bar shaped and attached to the body the wheel arrangement was the next focus. Now I am building completely as per kit instructions (not knowing any different) but I think if I was to make another (for myself) I would leave some of the brake gearing off. Each unit can be compensated but make sure you know which or both prior to starting on the detailing. As if you attach the sand pipes, as per instructional picture, then you need to ensure the slop in the middle of the units is the correct way around to locate the flats through the body in order to create the lever in the middle. The brake shoes are instructed to be folded and laminated but I found mine to have the detail the wrong way round to fold and expose so end up removing one shoe and soldering it separately. Bit fiddly but the yokes are accepted through the hole in the shoes without drilling out. To achieve this I removed as much of the etch from the fret, allowing for additional lengths if required. I then threaded this through the first brake show that has already been attached to the unit and the single removed shoe. With locking tweezers the shoes are held together and fixed with a small amount of solder. This in turns also attaches and fixes the yoke mechanism without losing any details or gumming up through excessive solder. Brake safety straps are the last to add along with the white metal castings. Once these are cleaned up and painted they will be attached to the body and the brake linked (also included in the kit) will be attached to the two units and the floor. I have the foot board to fold up and attached to those aerial type hangers in picture one (these also need folding prior to attaching the boards) and handrails. Again the kit provides small clamps etched into the vertical strapping to locate the handrail wire, this I think is a brilliant little touch. Then to look at the roof and whether this is to be soldered or glued, replaced or used. The conclusion of this will determine how the windows are to be glazed, either clear or using my dodge.

Morning Ric, It certainly is. Very nice kit as well. Instructions include some colour pictures of finished wagon and compensation unit. Instructions are relatively easy to follow even for someone who knows very little like me. The kit can be built compensated from outset, no additional compensation unit required and the brake detailing epic (for me at least). The only draw back I have come across at the moment it the lack of brass wire in the kit, relying on etched brass flats for this. Even has it's own brass roof although this is half etch to aid bending so yet to see how this works but may provide the appearance of planking underneath, where exposed.

Not my neatness work, had real trouble sweating the steel panel to the body. Not overly keen on the etched hand rails for the door so may have to revisit this before completion. Fibre pen cleanup and a sonic bath and everything will disappear under primer.

little over ambitious thinking I could batch build some toads as I have two separate manufacturers and two diagrams. Only one got started yesterday but as it is a permanent way brake, fits nicely in.

My chosen layout location (if I can ever get the build going) is Chippenham during the 1920s although this is for the rail plan so I plan to have stock from 1890s-1940s. No timetabling but trains will be made up of sensible and logicle stock, i.e. no red wagons being pulled by a King. My permanent way stock many consists of Reading stock with the crane and mess wagons/coach to be stabled at Swindon.

With the success of the CC2 wagon purchased from Chuffinghell's newly designed wagons and the lovely transfer set from Railtech that was produced especially for this wagon. I have been cracking on with the CC7 wagon from the same stable. The current status is; roof ready for glazing and then weathering and the wagon is fully primed and ready for the body colour followed by glazing whilst awaiting the planned transfer set before lightly weathering (not as heavy as the CC2). With the completion of the T3, T7, T12 or what ever they are (Signal engineering opens) suddenly quite a collection of permanent way related wagons have appeared. Almost to rival my WWII collection of which I must remember to finish painting the Sulphuric Acid tanker whilst the airbrush is in action. Two of the three sleeper wagons need chaining up and they all need transfers. One of the single plank wagons (formally Falcon single bolster wagons) needs transfers. The ballast plough requires couplings. Finally the bogie mess coach requires hand rails, name boards and detailing; vac pipes lamp brackets etc. I also need to find a way to stop it from swaying side to side on the bogies. Oh and roof attaching. With a break in the weather and that from gardening and veg duties I plan to batch build a few Toads to maximise the use of the airbrush for the CC7.

Catching you up! Going to try a nd get a couple of Toads done to maximise the use of the airbrush whilst the transfer sets are being produced. The CC2 sets are fab so really looking forward to the CC7 ones as the HMRS text these days is not quite as fine as Railtech's.

Catching you up! Cant wait to see what transfers sets are produced, the ones for the CC2 were splendid.

Having already finished my signal dept opens in grey I am also heading in I. That direction. Especially with @Compound2632 evidence. Besides it has been debated for years so as long as you happy with your model and livery and it suits your stock that's all that really counts in the end.

Heading towards grey with black wash

That's torn it. I was just getting settle for weather/faded black. 🤠 Get me thinking hat on again

Fingers crossed for the insurance to play ball. Hope the damage it not too bad to either bike, rider or companion. I appreciate the trauma is not always the worse to the those directly involved. CC7, with it's imminent arrival in the South West the decision has been made to paint representing a faded black. Now how to achieve this is further open to debate. Especially as I have just finished 4 signal Dept opens in full on grey!

Flipping ell. Go careful, glad to hear you are not overly damaged!

Yer Tis This said I have used my freight grey substitute (Vallejo 71.052 Anthracite grey) and washed it with black (citadel Nuln Oil) . Mainly on the coal wagons as I can not find anything to support either colour definitively. I am still minded to used a 'weather' black for a CC7 rather than grey and black wash.

I have read somewhere they were black, white roof and lettering. I'll try and find the book ref.

Rich, I didn't realise you had printed those two vans.

I can not thank the pair enough for such a lovely model, thank you Mr Wolf and Chuffinghell.

I have had a little nudge to get on with it so I have found a decent amount of time to concentrate on some serious work. First off the bat was to complete the Signal Dept wagons. I have been contemplating loading them with grubby, rusty and broken kit, chains signal bits, arms etc but have decided to go for interior paint job so I can load possibly at a later point. I have tried to give the appearance of unkept open wagon interior that is bashed and marked through use, rust and grease/oil. Currently half way through those 1 plankers/match truck/single bolster wagons then they can be thrown in the box of who cares? On to something a lot more interesting and accurate. With the fast approaching CC7 from @chuffinghell I have had the hurry up to finish the CC2 from @chuffinghell and @MrWolf. Personally I am over the moon with the model provided. Great details, outstanding features and thoroughly researched and accurately based (unlike those 1 plankers!). Hopefully my finish has done the model justice. I have tried to give the wagon a used but not run in service often appearance. The base colour grey was airbrushed and the roof sprayed with car spray paint white primer. Everything else I used a black wash (Citadel Nulun Oil) and rust/dirt has been dry-brushed (Vallejo Rust 71.080), (except transfers from @railtec-models). The roof has been dirtied by dry brushing the same freight grey used for the wagon (Vallejo Anthracite 71.052) and straight black for the lamp exhaust holes (sorry about the pictures the light washes out the weathering). The lighting is the same but clearly changes in the pictures, apologies. I read on either @chuffinghell or @MrWolf threads that during development it was muted about the closing relation in build and size to the iron mink. Here's a comparison shot for fun but clearly shows the difference, mink is a Ratio kit without any modifications.

First class, really nice details. Love it.

Very very pleased, many thanks. They are perfect.

Chris, using the CC2 kit as reference you kit is superior and @MrWolf is spot on.