bazza.
-
Posts
117 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Events
Exhibition Layout Details
Store
Posts posted by bazza.
-
-
On 27/08/2019 at 02:43, Mallard60022 said:
One of your members wasn't quite correct I believe, if he/she was suggesting it ".....should have 2 Sets' and a Maunsell Dining Car 'in the middle". The formation would have been different with, I am certain, at least some sort of Open (3rd?) next to the/a Dining Car, (which was probably a First). Two Sets maybe but probably not 'just' two 3 Car Sets. However I await to be educated otherwise.
P
Hi Mallard60022.
That's what I said earlier to Robin. Mike King in his book "An Illustrated History of Southern Coaches" states that the Maunsell dinning First coaches were normally paired with one of the purpose built 64 seat dinning open Third coaches or an ordinary 56- seat open-saloon Third.
I think that the two restaurant cars would be coupled to the 3 car Bulleid sets, but not in the sets... Like wise I could also be wrong.
Barry
-
On 20/08/2019 at 23:26, trevor7598 said:
Yes I totally agree, a 4 SUB would ideal. If a 47XX type was chosen Hornby would only need two body mouldings.
Underframe wise many parts are common to BIL/HAL.
They would really have to work harder on the glazing though, the more I look at my ' shortie ' set the worse it gets,
I noticed yesterday that the toilet windows are not flush glazed at all. What bugs me is that Hornby have got flush
glazing spot on in the past, different factory maybe.
Consider a decent 4SUB already sold.
Hi Trevor,
Or how about one of the seven 2-Hal units (Nos. 2693-2699) that were built to Bulleid's coach profile, the forerunner of Bulleid's 4-Sub's unit numbers 4111-4120.
Barry
-
13 hours ago, Robin Brasher said:
Richard Burkin has written an excellent review of the Bulleid 59' coaches on pages 16 and 17 of the September Railway Magazine Guide to Modelling which being free is excellent value for money.
The review covers details of the prototype, model coach bogies, underframe, bogie and wheels including details of the weight, livery and finish.
One point he makes is that the finish is eggshell on the model whereas it is gloss on the prototype. The Hornby Dublo coaches had a gloss finish and flush glazing and I don't think that their finish has ever been surpassed for their coaches except the Southern Region ones which were completely the wrong shade of green. Even so they had a charm of their own.
Today's picture shows 'Royal Mail' with Set 965 on the Wimborne Railway Society's track. One of the members said that it should have two sets of coaches with a Maunsell dining car in the middle but I have not got enough storage space in my flat for this set, let alone another set.
Hi Robin,
You might need two coaches, as the Maunsell dinning firsts were normally paired with a Maunsell dinning open third saloon.
Regards
Barry
-
1
-
-
18 hours ago, Nick C said:
I think (don't have any references to hand) that @bazza. is correct - there were some Maunsell sets without intermediate buffers - though I think it was from new rather than being removed later, and they were later fitted to allow the sets to be reformed.
The MK1 based EMUs were of course built without intermediate buffers - they were never intended to be split or reformed so why bother. Interestingly I believe the Maunsell EMUs (4-COR etc) were screw-coupled throughout, despite the fact that the contemporary loco-hauled vehicles were all fitted with buckeyes...
In An Illustrated History of Southern Coaches, Page 55, Mike King wrote " but a few three-coach sets lost their intermediate side buffers experimentally from 1928 onwards".
And in Maunsell's SR Steam Carriage Stock, Page 87, David Gould wrote " With permanently-coupled set trains it was found that buffers of the intermediate coaches could safely be removed, and several of the 3-coach sets had been modified by 1934. Those identified included Nos. 392, 395 to 399 and 446".
That's 7 sets, I wonder if any other sets were also modified!
Barry
-
1
-
-
13 hours ago, Wickham Green said:
Never realised the Southern painted our suburbs in B.R. Green No.11 ......................... talk about painting the town red !
Or Halford Jaguar British Racing Green !!!
-
20 hours ago, JohnR said:
Never mind what colour it is in the Dulux range - what colour is it in the Halfords range?
Hi JohnR,
BR/SR Green-----------------Jaguar British Racing Green
SR Malachite Green-------Ford Laural Green : Daihatsu Tropical Green
SR Dark Olive Green------Land Rover Coniston Green
SR Suburban Green-------Jaguar British Racing Green
What car are you painting ?
Regards
Barry
-
2
-
-
11 hours ago, Dunsignalling said:
If you want to close-couple these coaches, I'd recommend using Roco couplers rather than Kadees (#40270 is a pack of four which will do one 3-set, bulk pack of 50 is #40271) .
These are a shorter version of the Hornby copy included as "Alternative couplers" and will couple your coaches with the gangways touching on straight track, but still negotiate sectional track curves if you need to (in P4, presumably not). Up to you if you decide to retract the buffers (I have on my Maunsells but haven't got round to these yet). Try using the "free" Hornby ones first to see how well they work before committing yourself and closing up the gaps. You may not notice too much difference when pulling your coaches, but their behaviour when being propelled into carriage sidings etc. is transformed.
I am a long time user (and fan) of Kadees, but in CCUs the Roco couplers work better because they lock the links together as a single rigid unit, which is how they are intended to function. Kadees allow some sideways movement that reduces the effectiveness off the CCUs, so I nowadays only use them on the ends of sets.
John
Thank you John,
I'll have a look at the Roco couplers that come with the coaches. The main reason that I have used the Kadee couplers is that the Southern used buckeye couplers on the Maunsell and Bulleid coaches and its easy to remove a coach by hand when they a coupled with Kadee couplers. Try removing one vehicle when coupled with tension lock couplings and the whole train is removed in one go.
I think that I read some where that the Southern removed the buffers of the inner coaches in some of the Maunsell sets, so permanently coupling them together with buckeye couplers only. I don't think that they did that with the Bulleid sets.
A word of warning for those thinking of removing the outer doors on the corridor connections. On some of my Hornby Maunsell coaches the outer doors seemed to be lightly glued to the corridor connections, and removing the doors can damaged the outer corridor connection rubbing plate.
Barry
-
1
-
-
Now we have discussed the colour of Malachite green and all its variations, lets get back to the topic of Hornby's new Bulleid coaches.
Nothing in this world of ours is perfect, but I believe that Hornby have done a very good job of making these RTR Bulleid coaches and the Maunsell coaches before them. I have built quite a few OO gauge coaches in my time, but I would be hard pushed to make a coach to the high standard that Hornby are making today.
I like to keep all of my coaching stock permanently coupled together and luckily for me so did the Southern Railway and the later Southern Region of BR.
So when my Hornby Bulleid 3 car set arrived, the first thing I did was to remove all of the tension lock couplings from every coach. For the couplings within the set I replaced the tension lock couplings with Kadee NEM # 18 buck-eye couplings and on the outer ends of the set at the brake end I installed a pair of Hornby screw couplings (R7200)
In all of my Southern sets I have found that a combination of either Kadee #18 which are 8.63 mm long, or Kadee #17 @ 7.11 mm long, will permanently couple the coaches at a realistic distance apart. After all that is how the Southern Railway (and the LNER) used to couple Maunsell, Bulleid and early BR coaches together.
Now all I need to do is change the wheels on the bogies to 18.833 mm, but that's another story.
Barry
-
1
-
-
12 hours ago, Dunsignalling said:
Photographs seem to indicate that the "Southern" branding disappeared from most coaches relatively quickly, presumably sanded off along with the top coat of varnish and the base colour retouched; probably during the usual winter maintenance rotation of stock. The running numbers and class markings would presumably be dealt with at the same time. Given that this stock would have been due a scheduled repaint a year or so either side of the time BR green was first authorised, few are likely to have kept re-varnished SR paint beyond 1957.
I wholeheartedly agree about the futility of debating colour rendition, without access to a reliable unweathered sample of the original finish, it is impossible to be categorical. That said, there seems to be the hint of a consensus around Hornby's green probably being a bit lighter than the BR shade, a bit darker than SR Malachite, but pretty close to the latter after it had received a few extra applications of varnish.
John
Hello John,
My paint sample is a 100% un-weathered paint sample taken from a tin of original BR Coach green No 11 paint, ie BR Malachite green, at Eastleigh Loco Works Paint Shop. My paint sample has been stored in a brown envelope in draw and never exposed to day light, and never been touched by hand. It is my BR malachite green colour paint reference point.
I don't know who Williamson's are, but if they are paint manufactures, perhaps they would have supplied the BR Coach Green paint No 11 BR Malachite Green to Eastleigh Paint Shop in 1962.
According to John Harvey of the Southern Railways Group Notebook, BR Coach green No 11 was slightly darker and more yellow the the SR malachite green. and has a Munsell paint reference (including varnish coats) about 2G 2.1/4, this has a DULUX reference about 70GY 6.5/15C .
The nearest paint shade to my paint sample is 90GY 8/187 DULUX Woodland Fern 1 which is very close to the unvarnished BR Coach green No 11 malachite, which in turn is very close to the colour of Hornby's Maunsell BR green coaches.
Incidentally my Hornby short Bulleid coaches in BR green livery have finally made it all the way to NZ, and they are a lighter shade of green to the Hornby Maunsell BR green, so perhaps I can pretend that they were always facing south on the journey to and from Waterloo to Exeter and so faded on both sides instead of one side that was normal on West of England coaching stock. Thankfully they are not as light in colour as the old Bachmann Bulleid 64' coaches, which I always thought were too light a shade of green.
Barry
-
3
-
-
On 07/08/2019 @ 23:35 W124bob said:
There's an elephant in this particular forum room, no one can accuratetly state what is the correct shade of malachite green because no one has a time machine.
Hello W124bob,
I can !
I was given a small paint sample by a member of the Southern Railway Group, taken from a tin of genuine BR Malachite (Coach Green No.11) from the Eastleigh Loco Works Paint Shop in 1962. This sample is in its natural finish without varnishing.
I was also given 2 Dulux shade cards. One was a shade card of "Woodland Fern 1" 90GY 08/187, which is the closest colour to the unvarnished BR Malachite (Coach Green No.11) and coaches when varnished would appear slightly darker and slightly yellower.
The second Dulux shade card was one of "Dublin Bay 1" 07GG 08/244 which was said to be typical to the varnished finish of SR Malachite Green, which is very similar in colour to the BR green colour of Hornby's BSK Maunsell coach R4305A (S 2796 S) which I have used as a comparison, which in turn is part of my Maunsell 4 car set number 236 in BR green livery.
Barry
-
1
-
3
-
-
Wanted- Heljan OO 4-wheel B Esso tank wagons
Heljan model numbers: 1101 4-wheel B tank wagon #3305 Esso Black livery
1102 4-wheel B tank wagon #3328 Esso Black livery
1103 4-wheel B tank wagon #3373 Esso Black livery
1104 4-wheel B tank wagon #3650 Esso Black livery
If any one has any of these Heljan OO tank wagons that are surplus to their requirements please let me know.
Regards
Barry
-
Just got the DJ models class 71. It's very noisy and jerky at low speeds and flat out only goes at about half speed.
Anybody know if cvs can be altered to aid this? Using a Bachmann decoder with Hornby elite controller. Have tried another decoder but no different
Thanks for any advice before it goes back.
Just got the DJ models class 71. It's very noisy and jerky at low speeds and flat out only goes at about half speed.
Anybody know if cvs can be altered to aid this? Using a Bachmann decoder with Hornby elite controller. Have tried another decoder but no different
I had the same problem with two DJ Models class 71 Locomotives using an ESU 54615 LokPilot V4.0 DCC decoder in each locomotive. I solved the problem by replacing the ESU decoders with TCS 1344 EU621 decoders. now my DJ locomotives run perfectly.
Incidentally without changing any CV settings, I just swooped the 2 ESU decoders for 2 TCS decoders that I had installed in a pair of Bachmann SR EMU models, and the Bachmann SR EMU's continue to perform perfectly now using the ESU decoders.
Horses for courses!
Barry
-
It's not really that simple. They were used mainly on stock that was not regularly uncoupled/coupled. Which in a way is what this thread is about. The SR and LNER coaches usually ran as fixed sets. Between the locomotives and coaches, and other sets/coaches they still used screw couplings.
If you were modelling those sets then you might as well just make them fixed sets rather than fitting Kadees.
Jason
There is a bit more to add to this.
In 1924 the big four railway companies agreed to standardise on Pullman-type gangways and buck-eye couplings for all new coaching stock, but the GWR agreed but then changed its mind and the LMS continued to use the old British gangways and screw couplings. So only the LNER, the Southern Railway and later British Railways, standardised on a 3/4 size version of the American buck-eye coupling, on which the head drops down to leave a standard hook visible.
The regulations stated that when two buck-eye fitted coached were to be coupled they were to be buck-eyed coupled together in preference to screw coupled.
Barry
-
1
-
-
Greetings from sunny Napier in New Zealand. Even at this late date I have manage to purchase a pair of Class 71 model locomotives, E 5004 and E 5019.
While looking on line for the external working condition of these locomotives, I came across a photo of a Class 71 in the green livery, but with only a thin yellow stripe on the front of locomotive. Was the livery of this locomotive E 5012 as shown on colour rail slide DE 1570 unique to this locomotive, or was this type of yellow warning panel commonly used on other Class 71 locomotives.
From an aesthetic point of view, I have never been a great fan of yellow warning panels, but the reduced size of this one looked particularly attractive.
Barry
-
No updates on the 4 SUB of late.
I ham no longer able to continue modelling (or anything else for that matter) due having just being diagnosed with multiple myeloma. This has put everything on hold for the present and all future commitments such as the model show in August, which NHH was booked to be at, are cancelled.
I shall be keeping up with you all on RMweb though.
All the best,
Colin
Hi Colin,
Just found out. Sorry to hear your news. My thoughts are with you and your family. I wish you speedy recovery.
Regards
Bazza
-
I also like to see "different" thinking but can't help wondering how the poor residents might feel - having come within less than a whisker of having their homes washed away - about having water permanently closer to their doorsteps. The sea wall in all its solidness over many years has (until now) held back those waves and prevented the erosion we now see only too clearly.
I agree Rick,
Unfortunately no matter how much time or money NR spend on the sea wall, they will never beat nature. I'm sorry but It will happen again and again.
Coastal erosion is on going, and is It's been happening here for years, destroying coastal homes, and forcing coastal residents in Hawkes Bay who face the force of the Pacific Ocean's easterly gales in winter, to build their own sea wall as protection, because our local council will no longer repair or replace sea walls to stop coastal erosion, instead it operates what it calls "a managed retreat" for residents along the coast.
Then if they are the same as here, soon the insurance companies will refuse to re-insure the coastal homes.
I feel so sorry for the residents of Dawlish.
Bazza
-
Hello Bazza,
I found the TCS board to be slightly wider than the factory fitted blanking plug, and in consequence one of the fits was a tight squeeze, and right on the upper limits for clearance. However, alls well that ends well, and I was satisfied to refit the respective bodies.
It was the "goof-proof" warranty that attracted me to TCS, and although I have used other makes betimes, TCS remains my decoder of first choice. I shall tinker with the CV settings in due course. At present I am wheel chair bound with left leg, foot and ankle in plaster for the next 12 weeks or so. Even my slow progress can be slowed further!
PB
Thank you Peter,
That sounds good enough for me, I'll get a couple of DPX2-UK decoders from TCS and replace the horrible factory fitted efforts by 2Bil.
I hope you get well and mobile soon, more time for modelling at the moment eh !.
I must spend more time on my modelling, but now that its summer time here, I tend to spend more time cycling and pottering outside in our garden, and less time in my train shed, come May or June when the nights start to draw-in, I'll get back into it and start to catch up on my track making.
Regards
Bazza
-
It is a truth universally acknowledged that our individual sense of humour, honed to perfection in our youth, tends to decay with the accumulation of experience.
And this truth re-occurred to me a couple of hours ago, when, as predicted by Ian (above), bits of expensive plastic went pinging past my left ear. The good news is that reassembly has hidden all the evidence of my sense-of-humour trial.
So, to the news update. I have successfully fitted both of my 2BILs with 8-pin decoders, and both EMUs still work in exemplary fashion- on address 3 for the time being.
Separating the two parts of the body/chassis required two pieces of plastic. (I used an O2 card and a Tesco Club Card as both were expendable). These two, and a couple of miniature screwdrivers as jemmies, and a whole litany of cussing, gradually eased/forced/cajoled the assembly apart. The whole concept of retro-fitting decoders seems alien to the manufacturers, and it need not be so. The second unit was more obstructive than the first, and it was with this that two halves of opposite corner lugs went awol.
Once apart, though, all was plain sailing. (Even so I made sure that I had completed the first unit before taking surgery to the second.)
I chose TCS as a preferred decoder some years ago. (I have no regrets, but it could just as easily been Lenz). The Hornby blanking plug slid out easily and there was just room for a DP2X-UK. Mount on the layout for testing - OK, then click the bits together and job done.
I hope the following pictures convey the story.
The body-less chassis (the body shell can just be seen in the foam cradle)
Blanking plug ready for removal
Dynamic test with decoder fitted.
Ready for duty.
It will be many a month before fitting a third rail reaches the top of the "Things-I-must-do" list, so I just have to claim Rule 1, and retire for tea. All in all a good afternoon, and thanks to the Forum.
(The wonky platform canopy shows another job incomplete, but I shall blame the weather).
PB
Hi Peter,
I am very interested in your use of TSC decoders on the Hornby 2Bil.
When I purchased one of my 2Bil models, I purchased one with a factory fitted (I think) Hornby R8249 DCC decoder. When I took the model apart to convert it to run on my P4 track I was surprised at the mess of tangled wires from the 8 pin plug to the decoder, which were loosely held together with a small/tiny bit of insulation tape.
I like your use of the TCS DP2X-UK decoder that you have used on the 2Bil. They look smaller than the Hornby 8 pin blanking plug and you have finished up with a much tidier finished job than my factory fitted effort.
Did you have to cut any of the interior away, or did they just plug straight into the 8 pin plug?
Regards
Bazza
-
Hi Andy,
The lighting conduit spurs are super-glued into the lamp tops ( which Southern Pride describe as conduit junction boxes). This holds them well enough as the hard-drawn wire is quite resilient. I had considered tiny soldered joints, but there would have been little more strength in such a joint - plus: hot soldering iron + Plastic body = Risk of melting more than just the solder!
For the first time on an EMU I have made/butchered, all the conduit is brass wire. It remains to be seen if there need to be expansion gaps to avoid kinking during temperature changes. The lighting conduit is fairly secure, but the power lines and train control lines rely on superglue alone to attach the to the minute plastic strips and rod supports.
All the best,
Colin
Hi Colin,
If you only glue every second or third junction box rather than every one, this might help with any expansion of the brass wire.
You are wise not to put a soldering iron any near the plastic roof. When I extended the pick-up wires to the wheels on the Hornby 2BIL for my conversion to P4, it supprised my just how quickly plastic melts, even if you do not even touch it with the sioldering iron.
In my train shed over here, there is a tempature range from about 8 to 32 degrees Celsius. So in winter I allow a 2mm expansion gap when glueing down my half metre lengths of soldered ply sleeper track or plastic sleeper K&S flexitrack, and about .5 mm gap in summer.
When I worked in the trade in the UK, we used to call them conduit junction boxes also.
Regards
Bazza
-
1
-
-
- and it's proving very 'ard I can tell you!
Colin
Hi Colin,
It should not be unnecessary for you or anyone else, to correct the roof and other detail mistakes on the Hornby 2BIL.
I have always believed that it should cost no more to make an accurate model, instead of an inaccurate model of a particular emu, locomotive, coach or wagon. Especially when the real items are in the NRM to measure and photograph.
My biggest disappointment with a new model in the past decade, was the roof detail of the then new Bachmann BR Mk1 coaches. I rushed out and purchased a BR(SR) green version, but I was so dissapointed when I saw the over-done heavy ribs on the roof of the model as, BR Mk1 coach roof panels were butt welded together not joined by ribs like LMS coaches.
I quickly dumped it and vowed never to purchase another BR MK1 coach from Bachmann until they improved the the roof detail. Luckily for me, Bachmann did remove the heavy ribs on the BR Mk1 coach roofs, when they made their 4CEP emu model, which as we all know were based on the BR Mk1 coaches, and I was able to purchase two much need (by me) units.
Keep up your good modelling on the Hornby 2BIL. Perhaps you should contract out you time to Hornby, to advise how to improve their models before release.
Regards
Bazza
-
Me thinks, 'im correcting the mistakes
-
1
-
-
Hi Bazza,
What a wonderful set of photos of your EMUs and most spacious fiddle yard. By now they have been in service with you on your layout (s) for far longer than the real ones did on the SR/BR!
All the best,
Colin
Hi Colin,
That is one scary thought, but it does show how well, with regular maintenance over the past 45 years, the original Tri-ang motor bogies can perform.
I wish it was, but sorry this is not a photo of my fiddle yard. this is a photo of my model of Barnham Junction to date. Before any ballast and third rail and before scenery. The 4COR-4BUF are on the up main, the 6PAN is on the down loop, and the Hornby 2BIL is in one of the two emu storage siddings. I have been forced to squash 10 sidings into my fiddle yard which is on the other side of the room.
Perhapes it's back to front, but I made and laid all the track in my fiddle yard first. Part because it is on the lowest part of the layout, and part because I could corrected and improve my turnout making skills there first, before making the track and turnouts for the scenic part of my layout.
The next part of the project is to make and finish all track work for Barnham Junction and to complete the double track circuit round the train shed, before I start any scenery construction.
So to complete the Barnham Junction track work, I still need to hand-make, 12 new B7 and B8 turnouts for the down loop to the down main and Bognor branch down line. Make 2 double junctions, one from the main to Bognor branch, and from the emu storage sidings (now lifted) to the branch. And 2 diamond crossings from the down loop across the branch lines to the down main. And just to finish off, 8 A6 and A7 turnouts for the goods yard (long gone)
So with all that track work making planned for the future, I do not have a lot of time for making new models. It's easier to watch and copy you with you with your excellent improvements to the Hornby 2BIL. Which I am sorry, that from over here, I can not help you much with your research.
Regards
Bazza
-
3
-
-
After the cogitation over roof vents, it seemed best to get on and do something.
The DMBS has had its vents conduit and (rather unplanned at the outset)periscopes. This had the consequence of exposing two rectangular holes in the roof where they once stood - now plugged with 60 thou. plastic strip fixed with super glue to act as a joint filler.
Another unplanned operation was the plugging of the erstwhile conduit knob holes on the DMBS. I had hoped to use them to locate the new lamp tops as on the DTC, where they are perfectly aligned, but they go very much out of alignment- except for the one over the innermost compartment (not shown).
This has been mentioned on the SEG website: the fuse holder here is not found on 2 BIL DTCs. A quick slice and it was gone. It then occurred to me that it seemed rather wider than it should be.
It should look like this one nearest the knife point. Oh dear, the one on the right is another wide-boy.
The errant DTC outer motor bogie put up little resistance. One twist of the screw driver and it was gone - never to return on this unit. It will be going to the dummy motor coach of the yet to be built 4 SUB.
Don't worry, I do know what I'm doing - honest!
Colin
Hi Colin,
Are you going to save that fuse holder that you correctly cut-off, and re-positioned it on to the compartment side of the DTC in line with the one on the corridor side of the Hornby 2BIL?
Brian Golding's plan of the 2BIL, show both periscopes 5 mm forward of the Hornby ones.
Bazza
-
Sitting on fully chaired, P4 bullhead track, your model really does look every inch a 2-BIL, and no mistake. Very nice photos, too, Bazza, and it certainly proves how very close Hornby came to manufacturing the perfect replica.
Nit-picking, I do suspect the Hornby roof ventilator spacing may be slightly wrong - either that, or I've positioned them incorrectly on my kit-built sets! (Ian Kirk) From memory, the vents were roughly equally spaced along the roof, with those above the first class compartments being slightly wider apart. On the model, the 1st class ventilators do appear to be correct, but the 3rd class vents are grouped in pairs above the corresponding compartments. This I believe to be wrong. Only the 2-NOL's had that arrangement, again from memory.
I wonder how many 'Southern' modellers today, actually realise that quite apart from being different externally, the first 10 'prototype' 2-BIL's were also very different inside as well? Firstly, all the internal woodwork was stained in 'Dark Jacobean Oak', which was almost black. Along the length of the corridor partition, the dark wood was relieved with cream painted panels, both above and below the partition compartment windows, as well as in between the individual compartments. A single cream panel sufficed between 3rd class compartments, with twin cream panels between each 1st class compartment. The third class upholstery was alternately striped with thin bands of scarlet and black. I confess I cannot now remember what was in first class.
Btw, what make are the 4-COR sets seen in one of your earlier photos? Or are they scratch built? I know this forum is for 2 BIL's, but a photo of one of your 4-COR models would be very pleasing to see.
Hi BassettLoko.
If my memory serves me right, this topic was discussed on this forum about 5 months ago. In short, the first batch of 2BIL units had a smaller Guards/Luggage area, a third class 8 seat compartment in place of the 4-seat coupe on the later units, and electro-magnetic control gear instead of the electro-pneumatic control gear on the later batches.
The first photo shows two of the models that I made from the then very basic BSL kits about 45 years ago. Each kit only contained two white metal ends, two pre cut aluminium sides, a two part aluminium floor and and wooden roof.
The first BSL kit that I built is at the rear of the photo, now sold I belive as Phoenix kits by the Southern Railways Group, this kit was built as purchased as a model of a 4COR unit. This model was hand painted by me as 4COR unit number 3155.
In the foreground in the same photo is the second BSL kit that I made. Now filled with a bit of confidence, and with the help of a Skinley Blueprint, I built a buffet car and turned the 4COR kit into a 4BUF unit numbered 3075. This time I spray painted the model, and as I think that nothing looks like glass than glass, I used 1mm slide glass fro the glazing. For the 8'SR bogies I first made my own master of the bogie side frames in plasticard, then re-cast this in manganese-bronze as a master, then used this master to make my own 8' SR bogie side frames.
The second photo shows the third model that I built from a BSL kit. This time also with the help of two Skinley Blueprints, two new 6PAN/6PUL fronts, I built a corridor 1st coach and a pantry car to make a 6 PAN unit number 3022. As before I spray painted this model with Humbrol BR SR multi-unit green, 1mm slide glass for the glazing and my own SR 8'bogies.
All three units were and still are powered with second-hand Tri-ang motor bogies, with the original side frame detail filled off and replaced with SR powed bogie detail, re-wheeled to P4 standards, and the original Tri-ang 3 pole armatues replaced with CCW 5 pole armatures.
When compared to and placed along side the new Hornby 2BIL, I think that my old emu units don't look to bad. Must get round to painting the Hornby 2BIL destination number box white.
-
7
-
Hornby - New tooling - 59' Bulleid 'Short' coaches
in Hornby
Posted · Edited by bazza.
Hi Phil-b259,
Thank you for that bit of information, I thought that the Hornby couplings were the same as the Roco couplings,
I will order some of the Roco couplings to compare with the Kadee #17 or #18 couplings that I have been using.
Barry