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66702GBRf

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    Ellerby - 4mm/OO gauge - All photos working, hotlinked.

    in Layout topics

    Posted

    Hi 66702GBRf

     

    I went into it a little in post 9 , and post 33, but here is some more detail about the method I used, I have lifted a little of what follows from those posts, but have elaborated a little more.

     

    Firstly, if you are going to try scratch building I can recommend Geoff Taylor's 'Building Model Building in 4mm and 7mm' enough.(GTetches - website or Google search, or most rail book sellers). There is a follow up book, but the first book has a great section on starting building and goes through making a set of terraced houses, and how to paint them. See post 54.

     

    I use the method of painting he details in that book, with a little variation, and also I use thin ply for shell of the model, rather than thick plasticard. Maybe a little over the top, but it does make for very strong buildings.

     

    All paints Humbrol enamels. Apart from where mentioned all the painting is done with brushes, long wide for the coats (6-10mm flat brush), and short flat brushes for the dry brushing (4mm). Brush strokes are always in the direction of gravity where possible, or across the top of the tunnels.

     

    The brickwork is red Slaters plastic card brick, painted with an inital coat of Brick Red (Matt 70 enamel) and left 24 hours to dry, this give a basic red brick coat to work with.

     

    For the mortar a day later Stone (Matt 121) painted on and wiped off about a minute later with a kitchen towel. Don't thin this layer, I find it works better if you often stir the paint to keep it thick. Leaving it a minute allows it to run into the recess of the brick card, but you must not let it set. The goods building is at this stage on some areas, I did this so that there was a basic coat in before I set in the windows and glazing in particular. Don't worry that this has lightened the bricks, the following will darken them.

     

    Again leave for a day (you can't rush this, I tried and it all just turns messy and you have to start again).

     

    I then dry brushed the Brick Red Matt 70 mixed with Chocolate Matt 98 about 50/50, but varying the mix a bit on scrap card. Not too much variation, but if you put the two dollops of paint on there, and then run them together before each bit of painting the model it will give some natural variation.

     

    With dry brushing, you put a little paint on a flat brush, then paint that on to a bit of card, until it is almost dry and just giving a slight bit of paint on the card, only then take the brush to the model. You can refresh the brush from the strokes you have painted on the card, and only occasionally from the paint dollops, so that it stays thin and dryish.

     

    If it is too wet and too much paint on the brush it will fill the mortar courses, and you will have to repeat the previous bit. Don't worry you will get the hang of this quickly.

    At this stage you can also get a very thin brush, and pick out some individual bricks in the Chocolate 98, or an orange, or leather, or a mix of these, They will get worked back by the following layers.

     

    This is where I often add a layer not in Geoff's book, I often found this gave the mortar too much contrast, so I lightly airbrushed it all with a coat of the Brick Red Matt 70 to even out the brick colour. I am not sure if I will do this on the glazed building though, probably just a little, as it will add to the dusting on the windows just a bit.

     

    (following quoted section from post 33)

     

    "Now various colours were dry brushed on, Oxford Blue Matt 104 (or a very dark matt blue) gives some nice brick edge detail. Blue works much better than black, black is just too much for an overall dry brush. Matt 62 Leather does the opposite to the blue, if it gets too dark, or to make some patches.

     

    For streak detail Black and blue were dry brushed in downward streaks, particularly in the tunnel. I made downward patches of Humbrol Plastic filler to create heavy lime deposits, painted white, then toned down a little with black, chocolate and brick red.

     

    Gun Metal 53 (not matt that one) was also dry brushed on to some bits of brick, and on details to give that oily look.

     

    You can also thin down the Matt Stone 121 to a very runny mix, and dab a spot at the edge of the brick work and allow capillary action to take it into the mortar course, which gives some nice variation.

     

    Sometimes being bold with streaks is good, and you can always go back if it goes wrong. Try and follow the lines of the gravity of the walls, or sometimes the water flow if that is different.

     

    The darkening of the soot at the tunnel entrance was just an airbrush of matt black, I thought it too strong at first, but then brought the other tunnel to that level, and was happy with it. Sometimes accidents work out better than what was planned.

     

    I do sound like an advert for Geoff Taylor's books, but basically my modelling of buildings etc. is all based on that, and a few variations (using thin wood ply rather than plasticard for some of the base structure, the airbrush pass), it is worth getting the above book, and the follow up, each is only the cost of half a dozen Humbrol small pots, and will inspire you so much. I also got a book 'The Art of Weathering'."

     

    If you are making brickwork for a different part of the country, you may need a different set of colours though, London bricks are usually yellow, perhaps ask on the Camden Shed thread. Stonework is different again.

     

    One thing I would say is don't use colours that are too different in the same are, I am dusting with the airbrush a mix of brick red Matt 70 and Chocolate Matt 98 to keep everything within a general colour scheme. This is easier with the period I have chosen, a modern image model would have more garish and disparate colour together, but the grit, smoke and dust would still add a general coat to slightly bring it together.

    One good thing about painting with enamels on plastic brick card is that can keep working on to it, and go back to step one if it goes wrong.

    It does take several days of painting to get this look though, so you do have to be patient.

     

    I now have to rework this method by 90 degrees and into greys and probably some greens to do the platforms. Time to read the Lincoln Central thread for the amazing platform painting.

     

    I hope that helps.

     

    Jamie

    That helps heaps!!! Thanks a lot!!! I will do a quick google search and try and get my hands on that book.

     

    Thanks again

    Beresford Junction

    in Layout topics

    Posted

    The better option of course would be to build it right at the end (where I've been refused planning permission), and hide with a bit of curtain and pretend it wasn't there.

     

    I think that is the best option!!!

     

    66702GBRf

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