NinOz
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Posts posted by NinOz
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On 28/11/2022 at 03:47, cctransuk said:
Why? I have cut numerous rails obliquely along the hinge line. The oblique overlapping rail ends smooth the passage of wheels.
CJI.
Ensure lifting rail is on the top of an angled cut.😀
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On 20/10/2022 at 09:03, melmerby said:
Freiwald is on the high cost/protect against piracy at all costs route, which is pushing the end price and up. IMHO too much.
Would TC be that much of a target for piracy or is it just some mild paranoia ?
The only cracked/pirated version of TC actually in use that I had heard of was way back around V4.5 or so; despite statements that newer versions are cracked. I can't imagine that TC would be high on a cracker's list since it is such an obscure niche program.
For the last 20 years or so one would be taking a high risk of digital attack, virus etc, downloading any program whether "cracked" or freeware stuff. Too risky for me.
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I snip the top bit off, well, cut it off with sharp blade. Never had any spurting, thankfully.
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6 hours ago, PaulaDoesTrains said:
I can't say that I've had any problems exporting STL from FreeCAD. As for buggy, version 0.18 crashed quite often for me. Version 0.19 is much better. I haven't tried version 0.20. Have you asked for help on the FreeCAD forums?
Tried V.18, V.19, V.20, V.21 as well as Thunder's better branch. FreeCAD seems to work OK for simple models but adds weird effects as model complication increases. As multiple details are added to the main body with mirrors, polar and linear replications then weird stuff starts to happen. Distortion of bits and pieces, odd planes of fill added to the model, difficulty of viewing the current status of the model and actually including previously removed parts of the model (pocketed volumes).
Have had successes; boxes, covers for Digitrax signals, face panels for electronic constructs but the problems with wagon models are just too much for me.
FreeCAD forums seems a bit hit and miss for help.
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At the moment I am trying to make some n gauge wagon models for myself. So I would say engineering, all dimensions and such.
Have them drawn in FreeCAD but it is so buggy that I can't reliably get a clean export to STL. Incredibly frustrating!
Thanks everyone who replied.
Some CAD packages I have never heard of. Lots to explore.🤓
Loved the loco picture and drawing from Giles.
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After more than 12 months trying to get FreeCAD to produce a usable model I have decided to switch to a different package. FreeCAD is just too buggy to rely on.
Anyone have any recommendations for a usable program for an amateur?
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On 30/12/2021 at 12:30, Ben Alder said:
Some of the many micro-switches with different current ratings available from aliexpress:
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3 hours ago, Titan said:
What is your problem?
Their problem is they are talking about the situation where the frog is electrically connected to other live bits of the track so when point blades touch the rails the frog has to be the same polarity or a short will occur. This usually needs some sort of switch timed to blade movement. Can be tricky to get just right, especially in smaller scales.
Whereas the relay method uses a completely isolated frog the polarity of which is independent of blade position so any possible short would be limited to misalignment of polarities of frog and blades coupled with the actions of passing conducting wheels.
Some people just need to read and comprehend what has been written, rather than apply their limited view to all situations.
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Well it is certainly risky to try and sell. If only for possibilities of liability. Agree that decommissioning would be the best option.
In UK is it ok to solder mains conductor as in this unit? I was told by electrical professions in Oz to only mechanically attach, crimp and to cover all joints with insulation. The main reason given was melting of unsecured solder joints with fault currents and unrestrained conductors flopping about in the case.
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If more capacitance is required why not just wire additional capacitors to your existing CDU.
Not an approach I would use to fire 7 with one blow. I use individual CDUs, one for each solenoid, maybe two at a pinch, via a diode matrix.
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My solution was to put a DC meter , actually a V&A digital meter, after the throttle direction switch and connect a reversing switch after the meter. Throttle switch just stays in the one direction.
Both meter and switch mounted in a small box (which can be easily moved between DC throttles).
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On 08/04/2021 at 09:00, monkeysarefun said:
I'm asking cos the only ply I could initially get down here was hardware-shop quality which was very variable
https://plyco.com.au/pages/laser-cut-plywood-collection
https://koenigmachinery.com.au/collections/all
https://www.naturallycraft.com.au/products/finnish-birch-laser-plywood
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10 hours ago, T0ny said:
Just a general question. What glue do people use when laminating paper/card? Does PVA cause them to warp?
Repositionable spray contact adhesive.
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Generally the size defaults to the settings defined for each instance of the software used to print. My current PDF reader (Wondershare) defaults to fit to page at the moment (also double sided) so I always check settings before printing.
To really make printing the kits even more challenging is that I have found that printing "full size" is different depending on the program I use to print. Found this out by printing some pages using one reader and then doing the rest with another reader, same printer by the way. Had to chuck the half finished buildings in the bin as nothing would line up. Was told by a few "experts" on a web site that this was not possible to happen.
Quite reproducible.
Would be nice if Scalescenes included a ruler on the pages to check printing sizes.
Is the slight size discrepancy a problem for buildings?
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Recently purchased an Ortur laser 2 at "20W" with a view to cutting card and paper for building kits.
Not happy with the results so far. The problem is the shape of the laser beam. It is a bar shape with an aspect ratio of about 10:1 at focus so produces a fine cut in one direction and a broad burn in the other. Well it is sold as a engraving machine but I was encouraged by reported cutting capabilities.
Unfortunately trying to find a solution to the problem doesn't seem to be attainable. Tried the suggested varying of the focal distance and defocusing the laser slightly, neither improve things. To add to the confusion many people don't mention which laser version they are using.
I did read that the required laser power is achieved by stacking diodes so I wonder if a lower power laser source with a smaller number of diodes would produce a less bar shaped focal spot. Problem is, that will cost a bit of money to explore.
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Hope this is some sort of test layout in the track closeups as there is some atrocious track laying shown.
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Will access to the items be limited to 2mm members only?
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7 hours ago, dagrizz said:
The derailing occurs when the leading bogie meets the switch blade; when running very slowly you can see the wheel lift up. Looking at the Kato points, the switch blades are pretty sloppy and come to rest above the rail level.
These may help.
This video has some loud burst of music at the start.
Good luck
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I have read several threads about using mechanical cutting (eg silhouette) for DIY card kits such as Scalescene .
Has anyone seen anything about using laser cutters to cut out DIY card kits?
Sort of print A4 page, scan and create a cut file, mount page on card stock, somehow register page with laser cutter and then cut with laser?
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How many persons are in the TC company? Sometimes seems to be one but other times more than one.
I never purchased TC (did play with the demo versions as they were released) as I thought it was a one man band and I have been caught out before when the man just quit being around.
If he is in his mid 60s then I certainly would not consider buying. Rationality and mental acuity are heading for the basement. Personal experience here (I'm 67).
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On 05/07/2020 at 19:45, mikesndbs said:
But I was looking for the article and can not find it, I wanted to be sure about the frequency used (or range) and the actual voltage.
I'd assume the voltage to be around 50v and a frequency of around 1Khz or so.
Can anyone confirm please?
I know the relco unit I had put out about 50V according to some printed material but I have no idea of frequency.
There were others available (DIY?) whose outputs ranged up to 1kV.
Even some claimed to be DCC decoder compatible. I have vague memories about a couple of mV limit and some mods to commercial units.
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Again we stand to go off into the realms of nit-picking.
What are we trying to achieve with measuring the voltage, what was the OP trying to do? Just trouble shooting wiring problems or trying to fix booster/supply circuit problems, DCC signal quality? I assume the former for the OP.
My NCE adaptor just monitors voltage at the booster outputs, really not doing much except noting shorts and indicating all is fine at the booster.
For checking wiring quality I use my little DMM on AC setting usually. I don't care what the voltage or what the measurement bias really is as I am looking for any significant resistances in the supply to that point. Measure the voltage unloaded, drop a load on that point and measure the voltage, look at the voltage sag, if significant trace any anomalous results, fix.
Doesn't matter if the bias is 0.1V, 0.7V, 1.4V or x.xxV as long as it is consistent.
"??? DCC is a square wave so no need to average or detect peaks or do any RMS calculation. As already said, a simple bridge rectifier is more than adequate."
The circuit I use averages due to balance between built in rate of charge and discharge of the capacitor on each +/- pulse. Nothing in my post demands that averaging, RMS or any such is required. It is just how the circuit works.
Some people could start an argument about anything even if not said or implied.
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I use a small adaptor based on a circuit published around 1995 on NCE yahoo groups, to measure the voltage using a DC meter, analogue or digital, or a DMM. I use a 20V DC analogue meter. Works a treat but a digital readout would be better for visibility at a distance.
Basically stores averaged near peak voltage in a capacitor. Consists of two transistors, three capacitors and three resistors. Claimed to be accurate to within 100mV, probably due to the necessary charge and bleed resistors plus transistor biases.
Should cost about 5 to 10 quid to make.
Pity the topic wandered in the realms of expensive equipment and daft views of DCC/AC wave forms rather than just address the original simple question and application.
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On 19/06/2020 at 04:38, Adam FW said:
I’ve not had much luck with clear resin. I’ve only used the anycubic stuff and it is really sensitive to print settings and temperature to the point that I gave up with it as it wouldn’t print reliably
also when printed the plastic had more of a frosted look rather than crystal clear (I believe that there are ways around this) And had a slightly brown/murky tint in some lights.
Wonder if automotive clear coat would help, as per refurbishing headlight covers.
Quite reproducible.
CUTTING TRACK OVER LIFTING FLAP.
in Layout & Track Design
Posted
If using an abrasive disc, reinforce the disc with some superglue.