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reddo

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Posts posted by reddo

  1. 7 hours ago, Nigelcliffe said:

    There's the much older RRampmeter,  but doubt that's a lot cheaper.    Or there are numerous ways of DIY-ing the same, but depends on your electrical skills and exactly what you are trying to measure. 

     

    Knowing the exact track voltage, or exact current, doesn't seem important to me.   
    Knowing there is track voltage (a simple LED/light could do this), and knowing the current hasn't got near over-load from too many locos is worth knowing.   Current could be measured leaving the power supply, or entering the power supply (both are simple to do).    

     

    I have ECoS 50200 and for sure I can go into the menus and see the amp draw. All I want to see is the effect quickly on a display of putting certain DCC locos on the track and if the current increases. I have noted the recent issues with the Accurascale Class 37 motors (which I dont have) and would like to see if the same issues become inherent in the Class 92 which I do have with prolonged running and carbon build-up

    • Like 1
  2. Nigel - many thanks for the super detailed description, I had thought about 60% of it but your comments add alot of confidence so many thanks - greatly appreciated (I will be using my maglamp!)

     

    Thanks Paul for starting to reply - appreciated. I had ready some mixed reports on LaisDCC decoders so was rather nervous in ordering but seeing you're involved in the adptor board design, gave me some confidence. It seems that matching the current loading to locos was an issue so should be OK on this.

     

    I like the ESU ones - maybe next time :-)

  3. On 05/03/2020 at 15:07, pauliebanger said:

    Here's the link:

     

    https://www.digitrains.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=860031

     

    Although this is the same part number (and, unfortunately, currently shows a picture of the obsolete model linked in earlier posts above*), this is the new item to which I refer. If you buy with this part number from Digitrains, you will get the new style adapter, if you buy from anywhere else,  it will be the old one, which is pretty useless for many applications as in addition to the foorprint problem, it does not have solder pads for speaker or Stay Alive connections.

     

    If space, speakers an stay alives are critical to your needs, the Digitrains version is the one you will need.

     

    Best regards,

     

    Paul

     

    * The photo will be changed to the correct version later today

    Hi Paul

     

    I just purchased 4x of these adaptor boards from Digitrains and omitted to realise I will need to solder wires onto it from the pick-ups and motor onto the tiny PCB surface pads. Do you have any tips/recomendations how to do this as these are the smallest I have ever attempted ie have you done this? Thanks Paul

  4. Sorry if there is an obvious answer to this but...does anyone have an idea how to make up the brand lettering on this wagon eg print on self-adhesive paper, make up using transfer lettering etc. I am going to use 4x my Peco Shell/BP WW kits as they are pretty close with the cradle and side bar struts https://hmrs.org.uk/ind-coope-allsopp-burton-10t-beer-tank-no-22-op-1939-r3l-order-1441.html

    Thanks for any ideas

  5. Came across this thread as putting together a Burton brewery related goods train - very interesting. My family came from Burton and GF lived on the Horninglow road. At 6-7 in the 60's I thought every town had railtracks acroos the streets like Burton ans my father would visit the great pubs on our seasonal holidays, the smell of the hops was great. I have vans and coal wagons but in a recent clip of Fitted Freight on the BFI series I noted they had Bass Tank wagons in their own cradles sat on flat wagons. Has anyone evr seen any kits of these? eg Parkside, Slaters etc I need to revisit the museum and spend a day there for a huge dose of nostalgia. Cheers

    • Like 2
  6. That's fantastic - thanks so much for posting. I also really do not like gradients at all so your affirmation to drop it in the scenery has given me the boost I needed - thanks. I just need to re-jig some boards/get the jigsaw out now. It really does look fabulous - best pics I have seen. Cheers

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
  7. On 29/03/2013 at 21:58, RANGERS said:

    I remember this place well. I found a stash of Airfix mineral wagon kits there in the eighties when they were like rockin horse manure.

    A casual Google search for Arkwright Models brought me to this thread which has been a nice trip down memory lane. I bought a Mainline J72 from him at a Train Fair around late 90's for £20 in lovely condition and have dug it out to compare to the new ones from Bachmann which I just placed an order for the LNER Lined Black version. The Mainline one is a lovely looking loco IMO and I need to give it a servicee and a run. The crazy prices for new items now are pulling the older stock and a similar J72 is on Ebay for £48 with a buffer missing albeit in VGC

     

    I would never have thought my time amassing parts and transfers at train fairs from the mid 90's onwards would pay off. All the Airfix kits I was picking up at a £1 each for cattle wagons, minerals and the like.

     

    Does anyone remember King Charles Models in King Charles Street Leeds, at the back of Schofields? Upstairs was the classic MR room with new and s/h stock in brown boxes to have a rummage through. Downstairs was all the lovely Tamiya kits which I could only dream of (but did buy when I started earning some money). It was taken over by Beatties, as many were, but it still kept an air of modelling. It was ironically a sad time when Beatties closed; I visited the Harrogate store and picked up a large Scalextric set (Le man 24hr with Porsche 962 IIRC) in the closing sale with my father for old times sake; he passed away later that year so it sits in my model room with great memories.

     

    Cheers

    • Friendly/supportive 4
  8. Sterling work and very inspirational. I am embarking on a far simpler effort (have neither the time or the commitment) using the Metcalfe Viaduct packs...I am now up to 1.8m long. They are a good enough impression for me and enjoyable to build which is half the battle I guess. One question...does your track rise up to this height or will you drop it into a scenic valley? I only ask as I have 2x sets of that Woodland Scenics riser and was thinking about using it. Cheers

    • Friendly/supportive 3
  9. Just a small addendum to all the good posts above. Having somewhat masochistic tendencies, I also like Fulgurex motors (I also have a mix of solenoids incl Peco, Hornby, Roco, Fleischmann) and Cobalt, which brings in additional fun (not) in which DCC decoders will do the respective job.

     

    I have an SMP Scaleway 36" radius point (copper clad) I built and am now installing using a Fx motor due to a) the baseboard frame being directly under the tie bar and b) its such a fine build it needs a sympathetic motor. So the reason I ended up here is how to wire the point which I can see from the v useful pic above and also the accessory terminals on FX.

     

    One observation I can make on the movement, is the design method does work but it needs the recommended 19-20mm distance on the rod from the motor drive bar to the pivot point and it needs to be installed initially with both the switchblades and the motor drive bar at dead centre so each swing sees the full movement. NB! there are also 2x holes in each end of the motor drive bar which allows options on the full swing radius.

     

    On installation, I did not cut the brass rod; I bent the first 20mm (and 5mm return) at right angles on the bench then fed it up through the pivot tube. The motor was installed on a ~30mm deep piece polystyrene packing (cut to the plan dims of the FX motor plate) and installed with screws which reduces the sound transmission a little (I am still trying to find another solution - glue?). At this point, remove the rod from the motor bar and lift it up high above the board which allows you to then go topside and bend the rod at 90 deg toward the tie bar hole and bend the final 3-4mm of rod into the tie bar hole - one needs a really good square pair of long-nosed pliers. They all worked on my Peco Finescale turnouts but the noise got to me and I was sold on the Cobalts (lower height than the Tortoise) but TBH not such a noise reduction as I was expecting.

     

    The BIG advantage of the FX motors is they can be positioned to a side of the location of the point tiebar which really helps, if like me, you have a track/baseboard conflict

     

    For control, having invested in ECoS 50200 and ESU Switchpilots, I have identified that the SP Extension units are the solution to providing the required relay signal to the FX motors; these plug into the side of the standard SwitchPilots and as I have now several FX motors spare, I will look at using them to drive some of my Ratio signals in a prototypical slo-mo action (hopefully)

     

    Apologies for the rambling and hope the above is of interest/help for anyone else landing on this thread.

    Cheers

     

    PS - I damaged one of the brass rods and after emailing FX, a lovely lady in Switzerland send me 2x spare free of charge

     

    PPS - If buying old units on Ebay, beware of models marked Pacific Fast Mail underneath in the black molding; these are old units for the US market and have issues, as advised by FX Switzerland

     

    P1150459.JPG

    • Like 1
  10. Having just arrived on this thread from a Midland RM search, I am a little overwhelmed at the knowledge. Similar to Stephen, I have several kits from the 90s to build (MAJ and Ratio LMS coaches, Slaters, Parkside and Three Aitch LMS and Midland which I was picking up for a few £££s here and there.

     

    In preparation I made a bit of a Grand Tour of the UK over New Year and picked up several books on LMS and Midland mentioned in this thread from SH book shops (even one at the NRM - who knew?) and find the whole subject fascinating. I should say I have been an LNER follower for years, but having travelled as a child from Leeds to Burton in the early 60s, and distant but clear memories of Burton Station, its all rather close to home (my parents came from Burton and I assumed every town in England had as many railway crossings as BoT did!

     

    Anyway a couple of quick questions if I may:

     

    Who makes the most wagon kits for Midland - Slaters?

    Who provides the most Midland and LMS transfers?

    Who might make a kit of the Midland Brake vans 20t and 40t if poss

    Does anyone make the LMS 20T coke Hopper apart from Three Aitch

     

    Thanks in advance

    Paul

  11. Having just arrived on this thread from a Midland RM search, I am a little overwhelmed at the knowledge. Similar to Stephen, I have several kits from the 90s to build (MJD and Ratio LMS coaches, Slaters, Parkside and Three Aitch LMS and Midland which I was picking up for a few £££s here and there.

     

    In preparation I made a bit of a Grand Tour of the UK over New Year and picked up several books on LMS and Midland mentioned in this thread from SH book shops (even one at the NRM - who knew?) and find the whole subject fascinating. I should say I have been an LNER follower for years, but having travelled as a child from Leeds to Burton in the early 60s, and distant but clear memories of Burton Station, its all rather close to home (my parents came from Burton and I assumed every town in England had as many railway crossings as BoT did!

     

    Anyway a couple of quick questions if I may:

     

    Who makes the most wagon kits for Midland - Slaters?

    Who provides the most Midland and LMS transfers?

    Who might make a kit of the Midland Brake vans 20t and 40t if poss

    Does anyone make the LMS 20T coke Hopper apart from Three Aitch

     

    Thanks in advance

    Paul

  12. On 13/05/2011 at 10:32, jwealleans said:

    Brian,

     

    Larry's advice and coach are as good as it gets but you should also be aware (if you can set eyes on a copy) that Wild Swan's The 4mm Coach Part 1 by Stephen Williams has a whole chapter on building, detailing and painting one of these kits and includes a number of photographs in LMS and Midland livery.

     

    I purchased this book many years ago and it is now coming into its own as I plan to build several of the Ratio kits (and the MAJ ones as well) In the Swan book they show several WM casting for the underframe eg vacuum tanks etc - does anyone know who manufactures this type of thing. Thanks for any information.

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