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ColinK

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Posts posted by ColinK

  1. Hi,  

    I am currently making a 009 loco which has a 3D printed body.  Thecbody was designed to fir a Farish N gauge 08 shunter chassis (not sure if it was to the old or new design).   But I’m planning to fit a Kato BoBo chassis instead as it will look better, go round curves easier and is a lot cheaper.  The chassis will fit, but I need to enlarge the hole in the footplate by around 3mm in all directions.

     

    I’ve tried filing it (outside to avoid the nasty dust) but it is so hard I’m getting nowhere.  Any suggestions welcome?

     

    IMG_2329.jpeg.4592de4f1ea32259f17e64c03712deec.jpeg

  2. I had a nice surprise today driving the Skipton -Malham service. Nice weather and the whole world seemed to descend on Malham.  Some crazy parking and I really struggled to get the bus through (a few weeks previously the stupid parking stopped me getting through on the early afternoon run).  On my last trip I arrived arrived at Malham 10 minutes after I should have departed and there was a huge queue of people waiting to board.  As the first person got on a lady knocked on the cab window and asked if I would like a brew or cake.  I could have done with the brew as I missed one earlier due to being late (traffic and parked cars) but had no time to drink it, so went for the cake. A couple of minutes she reappeared with a huge slab of very tasty chocolate cake, all wrapped up so I could eat it at Skipton.  I presume the lady came from The Buck Inn; such a nice thought and consideration from her to feed a hot and hassled bus driver.

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  3. PROBLEM SOLVED

     

    Well, my friend Robert tried the three way point at his house and it worked properly without any modifications and told me why.  So so simple.

     

    Now you have to remember all the ‘normal’ points already worked fine powered by the CDU, but the two three way points didn’t.  The reason was something I hadn’t thought of;  the CDU output is not AC current, but a short burst of DC current; and the little circuit board I built for the three way points uses diodes - diodes only let DC through in one direction.  So the way it was wired, the diodes were blocking the DC from reaching the solenoids.  All I had to do was swap the two wires coming out of the CDU, so the current was flowing in the other direction and everything works.  It really was as simple as that.

     

    I have to count myself unlucky, I connected the 3 way points to the CDU at least four times, and got it the wrong way round each time.

     

    I am glad I used the 5 amp diodes as the DCC concepts CDU when connected in the high power configuration (wires attached to the two outer terminals) gives a really big burst of power.

     

     

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  4. My Heljan 05, two 07s and 14 are all shelf queens as none of them run properly.  The 05 and 07s are certainly pick up problems, the 14 a combination of pick ups and too much side play. The shunters are worse after sound fitting.  I’m really gutted over the 14 as its one of my favourite locos and I had it professionally painted rail blue.  Are the newer 14s just as bad?

    I’m not good at adjusting pick ups, is there anyone who does that type of repair?

     

    In contrast, one of my friends has a 05 which runs superbly. My Heljan 26, 27s and 33 run superbly and have done for years.

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  5. Suggest you have a look at ‘Dispatch’, a free online magazine of micro layouts. It might inspire you to build something small, cheap and quick to build to get you started.  You’ll learn quite a lot too which will help you build your next layout. 
     

    Last year I made a two level automatic micro layout in just a few months - could have been weeks if I wasn’t so busy. It is 009 using Kato N gauge track. A Gaugemaster shuttle for the low level (the aim was for a loco & wagon to shuttle between the two sidings, but I couldn’t get that working) and a Heathcote simple station stop for the high level (it changes the signal on the building and starts lights flashing in another).  It fits in one of those ‘Really Useful’ boxes.

     

    Under constructiom, note different scenes each side.

     

    IMG_2063.jpeg.e74768fd1f893e679ac30ef457b05dd6.jpeg

     

    IMG_2102.jpeg.730b0e9914fe97bcbf45dbbb7f2ad5b9.jpeg

  6. 8 hours ago, Steamport Southport said:

    Also some good advice of Jim McGeown's website.

     

    http://www.jimmcgeown.com/Questions.html

     

    Pity he doesn't do the 4mm kits anymore as some of the wagons were good beginners kits.

     

     

    Jason


    Agree, for my first etched brass attempt I built one of his wagon kits, it went together well and the extra instruction book he sent me was a great help.  Almost worth building one as a learning experience.

     

    While I’ve soldered electrical joints for a very long time, soldering brass kits is different. I went to one of the Merseyside 009 meetings (open to all) where the chap from Worsley Works showed me how to solder brass kits successfully.

     

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