ColinK

Berlin hbf also has tracks above each other. What you are describing would make an interesting model.

If one loco is to be named ‘Beer’ perhaps the other should be ‘Cider’.

Looks just like a BR 158, even the same livery.

I like the idea of being able to choose your accomodation. I know several exhibitors who have motorhomes/campervans and use them to transport their layouts and once unloaded, become their accommodation for the weekend. Campsites are cheap compared with hotels. Some people have the option of staying with friends and relations.

For something completely different, how about narrow gauge, either 0-16.5 or 009? I’ve built small nsrrow gauge layouts as an antidote to my serious layouts.

I like the blue narrow gauge. I’ve some 0-16.5 stock in Freightliner, EWS and DRS liveries.

Thanks, I must try and find a copy.

Our surgery is similar, you usually wait hours for the Dr to call you back. At the end of November I woke up with sores all over half my head and face. Rang the surgery, eventually spoke to the receptionist who asked me to email a photo. Then got something you really don’t want - the Doctor rang back within 5 minutes. When you get a call back that quick it means something serious is wrong.

Melting axles! Years ago I had a N gauge layout, DC powered (well before DCC existed). At an exhibition the layout ran fine all day Saturday, Sunday nothing would run. Discovered a wagon wheel was bridging a insulating fishplate and somehow causing a short. Once I had wired up the layout yesterday I checked the voltage across the track (I know the multimeter would not be accurate even on the AC volts scale), but the results were interesting. The rails nearest where the power comes in from the controller showed 13.2 volts. At the end of the layout only 9 feet away, the reading was 12.9 volts, a significant drop. Probably a combination of distance plus plug & socket connectors between base boards.

when was Heysham Harbour in the mag?

Excellent little model, I too would say working diorama. If you could automate it, you could take kt to an exhibition and leave it running.

Many thanks Nigel, I understand it all now. Just finished day three of wiring the layout up. Still one baseboard to do. But when that’s finished we’ve only wired up the standard gauge (HO). After that there is the narrow gauge (HOm) to do, and that has more points and a dual gauge section.

Sorry if I’m being a bit thick. The second handset (now a Procab) uses the curly cable), just checking that you plug it into the power panel on the same side as the Powercab (the LED side)? Assuming that’s correct, can you then plug one end of a cable (cab bus) into the back of the power panel, and the other end into the back of a second power panel, then plug the Procab into the front of the second power panel. That’s what I do on my home layout that has a PowerPro. I’ve got a spare cab bus cable (ordered one that was too short for my home layout).

When the traditional dmu’s were working everything round Manchester, any type of dmu allocated to Newton Heath or Longsight could appear on the Marple/New Mills lines. So 101s, 104, Cravens etc. As the dmu’s were progressivly withdrawn 101s were the mainstay and eventually all there was. As the second generation dmus took over, the Marple/New Mills services became a mix of 142s and 150s. Nowadays its a mix of 150s and 195s.

Personally I rarely read the exhibition guide and was quite happy with the sheet that was given out.

Hi, I’m cracking on with wiring up my friend’s HO + HOm layout. As recommended earlier (thanks again) we are using two NCE Powercabs wired so each one can run trains on any part of the layout. I know that to do this both Powercabs have to be plugged into a single panel which comes in the Powercab box. I also know that one Powercab has to have its address changed from the default value - I know how to do this (it’s in the instructions) but am unsure on the actual process. The question is, do I plug just one Powercab into the socket and change its address? Or do I need to have one Powercab already plugged into the socket, before I plug the second powercab in and change its address?

Worst job on the layout, I really hate doing it. My last big layout used Peco foam underlay and my 009 layout has Kato track which has a ballast base, well hidden in the landscape.

Made the long trip over from Lancaster today. Arrived 1330 and no problem parking, indeed there were a fair number of free spaces available. Very enjoyable show. Seemed a bit quieter than previously. Spent far more than I expected. Enjoyed the tea and bun.

I phoned airbrushes.com and told them what I needed it for and they gave me recommendations.

That’s a good reason to go to Rainhill.

There is a recent book, I think by Middleton Press on Preston to Lancaster which might be worth a look.

I use Kadees, they are good when set at the right height. They couple/uncouple fine on straight track, but not on curves. I’ve had problems of stock uncoupling where gradients change when one of the couplings has been not quite the correct height. But don’t bang them into buffer stops etc. as that knocks them out of adjustment. I think tension locks are more reliable, but unmodified harder to uncouple. Note that if you don’t mind your stock being ‘handed’, you can remove the hook from one end.

Stunning. Superb modelling.

As a reader of both magazines, I’m open minded about this, but just a bit concerned that the ‘Traction’ element could fizzle out over time as only some of BRM readers will be interested in it.

Thanks Nigel, I did wonder if two seperate powercabs would be a problem, obviously it is. For my own layout I have a PowerPro, but my friend can’t afford one (assuming there are any available).