fredwrekin

Hi Rob

I came to the Hayle show specifically to see OTW & was not disappointed. Having followed it (& the others) on here it was great to see it in the flesh. Such great attention to detail & full of atmosphere. Looking forward to the next one.

Thanks for the suggestion Mick, I'll look them up & give them a ring.

I've recently completed the build of a 13T Steel Open wagon, an etched brass kit bought second hand from ebay. Having never painted a wagon in Bauxite before I purchased a bottle of RailMatch Bauxite 323, along with Weathered Black 412, Early Freight Grey 322 (all enamals) and matt varnish. 

I airbrushed the chassis (2 actually) in Weathered black thinned as I normal would with Humbrol paints. All was good, in fact I was very impressed with the RailMatch black. Next day I thinned the Bauxite ready to spray but instead of it thinning it actually seamed to thicken and separate. I tried 2 different brands of thinners, white Spirit & cellulose none of which mix with the paint. I then purchased the brand of thinners recommended by Railmatch which arrived today. A quick test reveals the same results as previous !!

Any suggestions, any previous experience of this problem ?

I've recently completed the build of a 13T Steel Open wagon, an etched brass kit bought second hand from ebay. Having never painted a wagon in Bauxite before I purchased a bottle of RailMatch Bauxite 323, along with Weathered Black 412, Early Freight Grey 322 (all enamals) and matt varnish. 

I airbrushed the chassis (2 actually) in Weathered black thinned as I normal would with Humbrol paints. All was good, in fact I was very impressed with the RailMatch black. Next day I thinned the Bauxite ready to spray but instead of it thinning it actually seamed to thicken and separate. I tried 2 different brands of thinners, white Spirit & cellulose none of which mix with the paint. I then purchased the brand of thinners recommended by Railmatch which arrived today. A quick test reveals the same results as previous !!

Any suggestions, any previous experience of this problem ?

Thanks for the explanation Andy. Good work by the way.

Hi Andy.

Following your thread mainly due to the 13T Steel Open. I have just completed the build of an old RJH etched brass kit. Bit of a struggle with the brake gear as I had no instructions & only a flaky picture to work from, but okay now. I'm interested in how you have painted/weathered in inside of the body. Could you post a picture perhaps ?

Thanks.

I always add couplings after paint. There is generally a bit of soldering to close the links etc. A lot of cleaning and a dunk in the blackening flued.

With all the rolling stock & other loco I have built, I did put the couplings on after painting but this didn't have couplings that were sprung ie. had to be soldered in place. My pet hate is seeing superbly built kits with open links, so I always solder them closed, this ment they have to be painted. Time will tell if the paint chips/wears off.

I can imagine it would! I think with my next project, I’ll make as much of it detachable as possible to make painting easier. One of the reasons I choose Hamburg to model is that it didn’t need lining. Several other Canal class locos were lined - I found just a simple black coat enough of a challenge! Maybe I’ll try lining next time....

Incidentally, do you have a thread for your canal class on here?

As you say the kit goes together well although the instructions were a bit vague!! Your thread was very helpful as a reference.

I can imagine it would! I think with my next project, I’ll make as much of it detachable as possible to make painting easier. One of the reasons I choose Hamburg to model is that it didn’t need lining. Several other Canal class locos were lined - I found just a simple black coat enough of a challenge! Maybe I’ll try lining next time....

 

Incidentally, do you have a thread for your canal class on here?

Craking job on the paintwork & weathering, you can be very proud of your first build.

I have just started in the paint shop with my 'Canal Class' loco, unlike you I did not fit the filler plates between the tank tops & boiler (I prefer the way it looks) but it don't half make it difficult to paint !!

Steve B

I much prefer the Canal tanks.....always think the long tanks look a bit out of proportion. 

I have a few photos of No.67 that my dad took, which although is a long tank (Sweden type), will be good for the chassis and cab details. Give me a shout if you want them. I never made it up to the KWVR to see Hamburg that I'm modelling, and have just had to make do with photos from the web.

Thanks for the offer on the photos, however we're up country this weekend as the wife & her daughter are shopping for a wedding dress so I'm off to SVR where i believe they have a 'Canal Class' in the education centre at Highley, so I'll be getting some photos of that. I'll let you know.

Thanks Steve! Been a bit of a learning curve for me but it all seems to be coming together quite nicely now. 

My plan for fixing the cab interior is to add short lengths of square brass bar (I think 1.5mm) to the cab walls for the drop in floor, tank extensions and backhead to butt up against. I'll then add a drop of Araldite to each one to glue them in place once everything is painted up. Not sure this is very conventional, but I didn't fancy my chances of: a) getting my soldering iron in to make a neat enough job without access from the back, and b) having enough room to paint it neatly, as space is pretty tight on these small tank engines. 

 

Just out of interest, are you building the long or short tank version?

John

I was thinking along similar lines for fixing the tanks extensions. I too am building a short tank 'Canal' class.

Hello John,

I've been following this thread with interest as I'm building the same kit. I started just after Christmas, so I'm a bit behind you (not started on the boiler yet), working on the cab interior at present. Like you I'm making this as a separate assembly. May I ask how you intend to hold all the separate parts together once painted, particularly the tank extensions? Should say this is my second loco build, the first being a Connoisseur 0-4-0 which had much more comprehensive instructions. Must also say you're making a cracking job of this build.

cheers

Steve B.