gcodori

Here is another RPI project - more of a DCC interface shield for the RPI

http://desktopstation.net/wiki/doku.php/raspberry_pi_version_hardware

You'll need to translate to english for this.  Runs linux, but I'm sure you could use this shield with other programs.

How about an article on how you did it? I assume it is NMRA compliant too?

 

The advantages of the MERG system is the community support & its ergonomics.

http://wiki.rocrail.net/doku.php?id=gca1-pi01-en&DokuWiki=18ae3785370f447bb70f18e45a5d9f9c

This is one method to use the RPI.  This one uses custom built add-ons that extends the RPI.

You can also use the RPI as a computer (headless or with a monitor) to run JMRI or Rocrail - then use a sprog or other booster to make the connections.  A RPI 3 is pretty powerful - enough to run windows if you want.

I've posted this link in some of the other threads, but a good, easy and cheap to build DCC system is the one designed by Paco:

http://usuaris.tinet.cat/fmco/lokmaus_en.html

It runs on the xpressnet/ROCO protocol so you can use standard accessories like Lenz products.  It is simple to build.  You can build the command station for the cost of the MERG membership.

There are throttles, computer interfaces (compatible with Rocrail, JMRI) and boosters.

It's starting to show it's age, and is on par with the first generation zephyr.

Hi, I know NanoX. It is very simple and good command station. But there is some things, that it isn't too good. For example, that two throttles can control one train in one time. It is bad. 

 

Are you looking to have two controllers control one train?  MOST systems won't let you do that - you have to "steal" control from another user.  

Are you taking about controlling two trains with one controller?  That's very different.  Most systems including the NanoX can do this.

Hi all, I have new videos of this command station. New version of software. And I have a team. I am wokring on it with some my friends. We are planning software for computer and other platforms. 

 

Here are videos:

 

 

 

Have you got any questions? Or any idea? 

 

If you want donate this project, you can do it in contact page on my website: http://zavavov.vzap.eu/en/contact/ (this website is from Czech Republic and it is safe). 

 

Thank you

Vilem

Well, there is a very simple DCC system that can be built with the possibility of computer, android and iPhone control.  It's also Lenz/Roco/Xpressnet compatible so you can also use commercial hand throttles.

It's very simple - just 2 IC's, 2 voltage regulators and a handful of resistors.  It's called the NanoX.  You can see it here - http://usuaris.tinet.cat/fmco/nanox_en.html

The computer adapter (which allows for automatic control thru JMRI or Rocrail + wireless control) is also simple - just 3 chips, a crystal and some caps - you can see it here - http://usuaris.tinet.cat/fmco/lokmaus_en.html#genli

This website also has plans for 3 different throttles (including wireless), boosters, S88, etc.  If you use Rocrail to control it - you can use the android app.  

All the plans and codes are free - he even has PCB designs so you can get your own boards made.

Hi

Unfortunately my system is Xpressnet and I think this will not work.  I still waiting for a help

Tks

If xpressnet is your protocol - then you MUST check out Paco's terrific website - he has plenty of free designs for throttles, decoders, control stations, computer adapters and boosters for xpressnet/Roco/Lenz.

You can find it here

http://usuaris.tinet.cat/fmco/lokmaus_en.html

Also check out his section on the xpressnet TCO project - it is the basis of a control panel for controlling turnouts and setting routes, etc.  Look at http://usuaris.tinet.cat/fmco/lokmaus_en.html#xbustco

While it is not a keypad - it is the start of where you have switches on a panel that you can throw to control a turnout.

If you prefer a keypad, you can build his minimaus V2B with the keyboard and mount it in the layout instead of making it portable - you can control turnouts (up to 999 turnouts!), set routes and even program from this keyboard.  As you can see it's only two chips some resistors and the keypad - SIMPLE!

All of his designs are very simple to build and he outs it on the web free.  

I've been following this thread for a while and have not yet committed to building the project.  I have some resources that you guys may be interested in.  MERG published a journal in 2015 (http://www.merg.org.uk/merg_journal/download.php?fileid=83&userid=0) that had a design for an arduino controlled stepper turntable.  This design did not use a switch to signal a complete rotation - all of the positions are stored in memory based on the number of steps needed for rotation (say a 100:1 gearing x 1.8 degree stepper).

It's on page 29 of the journal I linked above.  It uses an LCD and 4 switches for control and programming.  The part list (it's really just an LCD, arduino, the controller and the switches (4x) is on page 39.

While the code is not published in the journal, the BOM is.  I then found a youtube user who built a version of this control and posted the code.  It can be found at - 

I downloaded the code and he listed in the comments below the video the connections used between the arduino and the stepper controller board (Sparkfun dSPIN board - the old one not the newer more expensive board).

Any thoughts?

Hi All

 

Is there a way to use a Arduino keyboard 4x4 as a alternative command station  ( turnout command from the hand controller )

Some times is very difficult to control 2 or more locos, and the turnouts from the hand controller.

 

Could somebody help me to change the sketch

 

tks

 

JB.

While this is loconet specific, you could most likely tweak this for your command protocol...

http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/26582

It uses a 3x4 keyboard, and arduino to send a turnout number and command (open or closed) to the command station, which in turns, send this command to the turnout controller specified.

I was thinking of using this setup for my turnouts and I may have a solution to the polarity of the turnout that doesn't require a relay to change polarity.

I was thinking of using a DPDT toggle switch with an ON-ON configuration.  This would have 6 pins on the switch, 3 of which you would use as input for the arduino.  The other three would be used to switch the frog polarity.  The two input pins of the toggle would be the two different polarities and the center would be wired to the the frog.  Since the toggle would be in one position or the other, the polarity would match the position of the switch.  When the switch is thrown, the polarity changes.

How would the arduino be set up to recognize a toggle being thrown one way or the other as input device?  I'm guessing only two pins of the toggle would be needed.

All-

 

I see that one person has downloaded the program.  Has anyone else tried the code to see if I missed anything?  The glue is drying on the motor mount.  I should be able to try it over the weekend.  As a side project I am working on a Raspberry-Pi running JMRI headless to act as the web-server for my layout.  It will have the Panel from the post above auto loaded.  I will be able to use my tablet or my phone (running Engine Driver and Wi-Throttle (respectively).  It works great running off my laptop.  I just wanted a more hands off option running in the background.  I wonder if anyone else has had success with that?

 

Thanks.

-Eric

I have not yet downloaded the firmware.  I plan on building this module in the near future.  I hope you are able to continue to post changes here and I know we all appreciate the work you put in.

@estreetcar, it is more usual to put the

pinMode(5, INPUT_PULLUP);

statements into setup() so they are only called once rather than hundreds or thousands of times per second. (And see what putting the code into code tags - the <> icon - does).

 

@gcodori, stepper motors can easily work with gears. The problem is that any backlash in the gear train will make the alignment less precise. There are various ways to deal with that.

 

...R

I asked this question because I've seen stepper motors with the builtin reduction gears. They are 18 degree steps with 100:1 which would yield 2000 steps per revolution. 20x100.

This wouldn't be a home built reduction system but metal gears held in a case attached to the front of the motor. This would keep the slop in check.

Here is another question for the topic.

Can the stepper be used with a reduction gear or two so the servo makes more than one rotation to turn the table 360 degrees? This would make the number of steps be a factor greater (like 20x the steps to complete the rotation) for finer resolution and more accurate table placement.

Great thread! I have a few basic questions.

Would you mind sharing a quick schematic of the parts you added to the arduino to protect it from the dcc signal and the other components you added?

Also are you using toggle switches (on or off) or momentary switches to trigger the servo movement?

I'd like to use dpdt toggles so I can use half of the pins to switch the polarity of the frog and the other pins to switch between 5v and ground. Did that make sense? And by pins I mean the pins of the toggle switch.

Lastly is there a way to cut the signal after movement to reduce heat and noise?

I edited my last post. The old card does have i2c just not a dedicated chip. I'm new to arduino so I'm not even sure what i2c is...

 

 

 

Hi gcodori, I don't think the v1 Adafruit board will work as like you say it doesn't have the i2c bus. You could try the V1 but I suspect you will have to download a different set of driver routine for the board. The stepper motor I used has a current load of about 250ma at 12 v.

 

Ray.

Quick question...

I have the v1 version of the adafruit motor control board.

Does your code rely on the new features of the v2 board?

The new board had i2c features and a higher amp limit. The old card had i2c but a the new card has a dedicated chip controlling it.

Thanks!

Hi. 

Sorry for lack of updates, had an exhibition at the weekend to prepare for so times been precious.

 

I think Robins post just about sums this up, any sensor that will pull down the input on the Arduino board to near 0v should work. Like Robin says the important thing is that it does it at exactly the same place each time the unit is powered up to set the reference point.

I currently have a reflective and a slotted opto sensor to try out when i get a few minutes spare.

 

Ray.

The reason I asked about the tactile or other switch is because this project looked similar to the rocrail controller for turntables using a stepper.  Since it used a series of reductions on the drive, the stepper may turn hundreds of times before making a complete turn of the turntable.  The switch was in place to identify the start/end point.

More info here - http://www.wiki.rocrail.net/doku.php?id=gca145-en

They also designed a controller board that feeds position numbers to the turntable so it can go to a preset spot by keying in the position and hitting a button.

Older link with videos of the controller in action - http://www.wiki.rocrail.net/doku.php?id=mgv145-en

I'd be interested in whether a tactile switch or maybe a optical switch would work instead of a hall switch?  Perhaps a small silver strip is painted on the end of the bridge to reflect the optical sensor...

Does the switch need to be normally open or closed?