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When eBay madness meets Scotsman madness

I've seen some Del Prado hopefuls on eBay, but this is just stoopid: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325846224775?

Sounds like a Mickey Mouse outfit to me!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/196018703948? Well it does look a bit of a gronk!

There's your answer then. Fit track cleaning shoes in front of the first set of driving wheels. Of course if you want to run tender first you'd need them behind the last set of driving wheel as well. :)

Reminds me of a comment made by the MD of a company I worked for, at a meeting discussing high levels of faulty product returned by customers: If we didn't have any customers, we wouldn't have any problems!

Waiting to hose down the floor once all the bottles have been cleared???

Well tis Cornwall so twill be done dreckly.

I guess the answer to my query is somewhere in the 100 or so pages of this thread and I admit I'm being lazy in going through them all to find it but, will the cameo 1 cut plastcard, and if so, what thickness. I'm looking for cut right through, not score and break. Thanks

Good point about the steam through the safety valve at low pressure, didn't think of that. A trick I've seen used on sticking traction engine safety valves was to !"'it it wiv a 'ammer" but I guess that isn't an option or would be frowned on in railway practice

Is the seller using the idea that a picture says a thousand words to tell us the we really "need" this item: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/386144300795?

I agree a safety valve blowing off could be stuck open, but more likely to be due to not being able to get water into the boiler to reduce the pressure. I suspect the term water pump was a case of Chinese whispers. Someone heard what happened but didn't know the correct terminology, so added their own interpretation. AS a matter of interest, were water pumps ever used on Railway locos. I guess may have been on early ones, but I was under the impression that all"modern" locos had injectors only.

Tho job has brought them to their knees!

I sold a heavily modified version of one of those, as part of a Princess Elizabeth set, a few years back. The set was bought for my brother and I in 1954. Times were still hard then, and Dad soon got fed up with buying new batteries for us, so he bought a transformer then added connectors to the controller. He also added a speed control with a hand wound resistance coil. A few years later we were given a Jinty which ran much faster, so to get it to run slower a second coil was added.

Glassy brake linings are not very effective :)

Hardly surprising the brakes failed if they were full of milk. :)

Thanks @Kris . I've googled 2304 and it does indeed show the single vent version. I was trying number either side of 2404, (2403, 2405), but I guess I was being too logical. :)

Resurrecting this thread for a slightly different reason. I'm trying to sort out the Poole part number for the Farish GW single vent van (grey). I have some I want to sell on eBay, but would like to get the boxes and listing correct. (I currently have single and twin vent vans both in boxes marked 2404) I believe the twin vent ot be No, 2404, but cannot find a number for the single vent

You'd never get away with that in real life, no railings around the edge of the roof1

There's box madness, then there's this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/276043382117

As you picked a Friday and not a Wednesday, I might consider a visit by train!

Obviously running under Rule 1 conditions

The way this country is going "Woking" could be applied to any area!!!

I think I may have shared before that in my brief period in jig and tool design, the office manager had a phrase he would use when we'd been struggling for hours, sometimes days to come up with a workable design for something, "it's so simple it hurts". It turns out that the points weren't the problem (pun intended). On the loco that was derailing, the body retaining screw wasn't fully tightened, which meant the head was protruding down, and catching in the point blade on the side not touching a stock rail. I've screwed it in tight and filed it down flush, (with still enough slot to remove the screw if necessary) and it runs over the points fine. Thank you all for your input; I've learned a few things from your comments

Thanks for your comments @DCB If the kink you refer to is the one nearest the yellow arrow, unless I'm missing something, that's not the side the flanges run on, so I'm not sure it would be a problem. Please correct me if I've misunderstood you on this. I did try swapping with another turnout but it made no difference.