SGTBILKO

I've ordered some bargains but I am always careful to empty the mailbox, take the package into the garage and open it there. Later when "her indoors" goes out, I take the stuff up to my playroom.

It's about time that they stopped people putting photographs of real buildings on here and passing them off as models!

Very neat indeed! I look forward to seeing the finished article.

There could be a serious damp problem with the way that the roof of the right hand part of the building abutts onto the gable end. Would the Master have made such a grave error?

Very convincingly grimy, well done!

The choice is narrowing, I've just pre-ordered my second 14xx (1420) this morning. There were a lot more to choose from yesterday. This model should prove to be a real success!

It seems that the above is incorrect. I was getting 48xx mixed up with 14xx. Only just realised that 48xx were renumbered 14xx in 1946. Anyway have ordered one of each in GWR livery. There is so much to learn!

The choice is narrowing, I've just pre-ordered my second 14xx (1420) this morning. There were a lot more to choose from yesterday. This model should prove to be a real success!

Lovely lovely news, the one I've been waiting for, only hope it is released before I die!

Maxwell House or Nescafe?

Lovely work, when are you taking bookings? I would like a room with sea views and a FAMILY BATHROOM.

The buildings aren't bad either! Great stuff!

Great job Captain!

I had this one marked down as a future project for my layout and was wondering how to tackle it. Many thanks for the tips.

Regards, William.

As a postscript I must add that David Wright's book "Making Rural Buildings for Model Railways" inspired me to use artist's oils for this model. I can highly recommend this book by the way.

Thank you Allan, I am much encouraged. As regards textures these were created mostly by using a mixture of washes of thinned oil paints and dry brushing thicker mixtures of the same with a stiff brush. Artist oils have the disadvantage of taking a long time to dry but they have better consistancy than acrylics in my opinion. The model will need to be sealed with mat varnish after a few weeks of drying time. Stained wood from camembert boxes was used for the timbering. This gives a reasonable representation of the real thing in 4mm scale. In a past life I used to restore oil paintings so paints and colours are almost second nature.

All the best,

William.

Here's another scratch built building just completed. A cow byre this time ready to slot into a rural scene.

The half timbering was cut from empty camembert boxes, the infill is made from air drying clay and the slates from 600 grade sandpaper. Will's brick sheets were also used in the construction. The whole was painted using artists' oils.

Thanks Stuart for your kind comments. For me the thatch was the easiest part of the model. I just followed the instructions on page 2 of Downes plans book 3, " More Country Buildings". I stuck 4 layers of 3 ply wool onto card and then glued scenic grass material on top. The whole was then dyed with wood dye. This method is probably quicker than using plumbers' hemp or human hair, although these materials may have given a more realistic finish.

William.

Thanks for the tip Allan. I agree with you about not using poor quality card, mine comes from Rougier et Ple in Paris although I have to confess to using cereal packets for practice. Regards.

Hi Allan.

Many thanks for your kind observations. I have to say that I have tried scratchbuilding before with plastic sheets. Although plastic is a very good material, I can't seem to get on with it. I am now trying my hand at a small Tudor building involving empty Camembert boxes and lashings of Colron wood dye.

All the best, William.

Here is a thatched cottage, my first scratchbuilt building, just completed and it was inspired by "Downes Plans" (published 1979). It was fun to make and probably a bit rough compared to that of the Master.

Edgeworth has been an inspiration to me and I've got as far as building the baseboards and scratch building the bridge. I have increased the size making it 3' longer and 3" deeper, enabling me to use longer turn-outs. Like you, Phil, I've purchased a second hand Bachmann Pannier tank for £60, exactly similar to the one you've illustrated, running number 9643. Mine hasn't arrived yet but I think it hasn't got the split chassis (thank Heavens!) as you stated. See http://www.Bachmann.co.uk/service/assmbly.php the service sheet is number 18750 oddly enough. It would be nice to see a decent 14xx, I see Dapol made one but does anyone know how long ago? Regards, William.