Jump to content
 

ianLMS

RMweb Gold
  • Posts

    1,802
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by ianLMS

  1. Another handy little buy off Ebay was this loco and rolling stock servicing cradle. 3D printed and not exactly high tech like other ones u can buy but for £25 it does the job and so far has been quite useful. Got this one as it had wing nuts. Other ones on ebay had allen bolts making quick adjustments that little bit harder. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Model-Railway-Loco-Servicing-Cradle-multi-angle-train-berth-stand-00-H0-N-H0m-/165995240915?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p4429486.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 Again, no association just putting it out there if others are interested. Ian
  2. Whilst searching for etched pipe flanges for 4mm i came across these on Ebay. I ordered a variety to see what they are like and i must say they are quite nice! Very fine detailed etches and look suitable for 4mm and 7mm. No association with seller, just a happy customer and thought i would share it with you i case anyone else is in need of any!! https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/sue24209 Ian
  3. Finally, the Jubilee 5698 Mars is complete after some very light weathering, real coal, Modelu crew, lamps and couplings fitted and now under going testing on layout! So far, its behaving! One pic was taken while messung around with a disposable vape. Wrong kind of steam but adds a little atmosphere i think!
  4. As with everything in this hobby, there are lots of different ways to do it, and several opinions. Here is what i do; 1/8" or 3/16" cork on a roll, the stuff thats sold at model shows and model shops is fine. I roll it out, loose pin it, lay the track using track pins, then cut the surplus cork away and re-use it on the next bit until tiny bits are left. Works on points no problem. I use Greenscene ballast which is not granite but crushed nut husks so does not go a blue/green when stuck down with pva. https://www.green-scenes.co.uk/store/product/gs409-ballast-4mm-scale-light-grey Takes paint/weathering powder easy enough. I enjoy ballasting but i know many dont. For normal track i use a ballast spreader https://houseofhobbies.co.uk/product/proses-hooo-scale-ballast-spreader-20463?gclid=Cj0KCQjwmZejBhC_ARIsAGhCqndmFEN0xhUfegVY60d9GhHjkcLgehBfS1KRFpsbqIIIytQ2fgNoHi0aAkIAEALw_wcB aand a tea spoon for putting it over points. A gentle tap on the track helps bed the ballast down before wetting with a fine mist spray. I use one of these; https://www.amazon.co.uk/ZHIYE-Continuous-Aerosol-Hairstyling-Cleaning-5-4oz/dp/B09Q3K1JC3/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?adgrpid=51591034525&hvadid=259068590524&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=1007160&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=12730124204834996837&hvtargid=kwd-296457035211&hydadcr=7754_1725757&keywords=fine+mist+spray+bottle&qid=1684435792&sr=8-5 Mix pva, water and a few drops of washing up liquid and use a dropper to place the glue over the wetted ballast. Around points, just be careful and regularly move the point blades. The dropper allows you to be very accurate so you dont get glue on top of the sleepers which will stick the point blades. Allow to dry for a few days and paint/weather to blend in. Ian
  5. Getting near completion now. DCC chip (Zimo MX623) fitted nicely inside motion gear bracket in the frames. Just made a little platform for it to sit on. Tender and loco chassis and pick ups all sorted, tender/loco connection done and all running smoothly. Just a few details and touch ups left, mainly loco brakes, buffers, electrical connection between tender and chip and touch up paint where needed. Ian
  6. Spot on Mark. The top of the motor was vibrating against the inside of the firebox!! Issue resolved with a thin sticky pad inside!! Thank you so much!! Ian
  7. Tender and loco bodies and chassis painted and motion gear assembled. Tested on analogue with HL Coreless motor and HL RR+ gearbox. Odd thing. Works perfectly forward and reverse without body fitted with and without gearbox tightened on axle. Runs dead smooth forward with body, but horrible grinding/vibrating noise in reverse when tightened on axle. Triple checked everything and cant for the life of me find the problem!!! The only thing i can think of is slight movement in hornblocks enough to cause a vibration in reverse. Checked motor drive worm to see if it hits body and it doesnt. Not really an issue as i rarely run the big locos in reverse anyway, but its niggling me! Cab windows to install when buffer beams are dry, then work on tender pick ups and where to hide the decoder!!! No access to boiler/smoke box, so inside the frames or tender are only possible locations.
  8. Look up the series called THE ILLUSTRATED HISTORY OF L.M.S. STANDARD COACHING STOCK: (The Illustrated History of L.M.S. Standard Coaching Stock) David Jenkinson (Author) R. J. Essery There are a few volumes and keep and eye out on ebay etc but dont pay too much. There are some priced at £50 but you should get ones under £20 if you are patient. I would imagine many coaches didnt get repainted during the war so lots of Stanier late 1930s liveries would have survived even into early BR days albeit a bit worn, tired and battle scarred!
  9. Thanks Phil. Your hut looks very tidy, better than mine until i painted them! I tend to superglue the tiny bits rather than solder. Usual halfords etch primer then varying shades of lifecolor wood, stone and other acrylics to get the finish i wanted.
  10. I am a fan of severn models and have a few of their 4mm kits. The detail is superb and go together very easily. The stables and sheds below are from Severn.
  11. The tendef kit was nice to put together and had nice etches so thank him for me wjen u see him! I have loads of AG hornblocks but they are fiddly to get right. I prefer Brassmasters or MJT slimline ones for the loco.
  12. Thanks John. Working on the tender now. After starting to build the Stanier 4000 gallon tender, i checked my reference book and discovered 5698 Mars had a Fowler tender from when new until around 1940. Luckily i had on old tender kit for a 3500 gallon Fowler tender in my drawer. It came as a part of a few tender kits i got off Ebay cheap. This one is stamped M.Peascod dated 1977!!! What i didnt have though were the frames. Rather than buy some Comet ones, i am trying my hand at scratchbuilding some. After careful measuring, i have cut some out of some 12mm wide brass strip i had. I am now fitting Alan Gibson sprung hornblocks. These are 1/8", but i will solder in 2mm bearings to suit the axle on the AG wheels. Fingers crossed it all works!!!
  13. I would make one from scrap plasticard or brass and buy a set of sprung buffers from Bachmann or somewhere local. Glue the bits together to get an idea of dimensions and fettle away! Failing that, not sure if Brassmaster post to US but they have a kit of parts to improve the standard model which include a buffer beam. https://www.brassmasters.co.uk/hornby_pat_scot.htm Ian
  14. He is at the York show this weekend if you are going! Got me a list of wheels and parts to relieve him of.
  15. Not sure if they could be sold seperately but I had some included in an Alan Gibson Jubilee kit i am building. I took a mold of them to see if i can make some from resin for future projects. They are a little chunky and sit quite proud but i could have made an indent in the firebox if i had thought about it more. Filing them down was a tad difficult due to them being so small.
  16. Few more minir details such as front handrails, buffers, front coupling hook, boiler fittings which im not sure what they are called, and a test fit with the mainframe, cylinders and motion bracket. Steps next then a damn good clean before starting on tender.
  17. More work on the Jubilee. Added boiler and footplate details and handrails. Coming along, slowly but surely.
  18. I tend to buy HL gearboxes for my kits but i wanted to try the DJH one after watching Tony Wrights Right Track dvd. It is saved for when i decide to take the EM/P4 plunge!!!
  19. Interesting stuff. It certainly is helping me a lot with this kit. After building 20+ locos, this is the 1st time i have come across the provided jig. But then i tend to buy 2nd hand low price LMS kits such as Jamieson, Model Loco, Cotswold, SEF etc so they probably didnt want the extra design/etching cost for a jig.
  20. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ballast-Underlay-300mmx1200mm-Granite-railway/dp/B00PUDTQ7K/ref=asc_df_B00PUDTQ7K/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=314530710906&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13009673123381775559&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006589&hvtargid=pla-699875330810&psc=1
  21. A little bit more work on the body this week. Cab, firebox, boiler and smoke box fitted. Boiler band a coach roof tape from Wizard models. Just need to glue the ends of one as its peeled away a little. Overall i am happy with how the build is going.
  22. It might just need a very slight tweak to one of the wheels to free it up. Try a tiny amount on the binding side to say 3.10 or 6.10 so there is slight vertical movement at the coupling rod. As per Tonys advice last weekend, dont adjust the first wheels you set, only the last ones where the issue first appeared and the tiniest of adjustment might do it. Failing that, gentle twist with a tapered reamer on the offending coupling rod to just ease it a bit more
  23. Progress on the body so far. The kit comes with an etched jig which has the footplate valances attached and you build the body up from there, then cut away the rest of the jig when its assembled hopefully keeping everything nice and square. Very neat idea from Alan Gibson!
×
×
  • Create New...