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PJBambrick

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Posts posted by PJBambrick

  1. Take a tree from the box and colour match it exactly with artist acrylics, then practice copying it by stippling the foliage with an old splayed out brush about 5mm wide.  Just keep going till you get the knack and you can't tell them apart

     

    The main thing with trees though, is to paint what's behind them first, so drop in a curved piece of white mounting card behind, and work out the background using 'Generate a panorama'

     

    Yours is very interesting.....

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  2. We must get round to doing some pics of the pre'47 era P4 engines soon, but they still need a little work to modernise them, and one or two still require detailing, paint & lining.  The main things now are to finish the larger engines, the MV 'Alacrity' coaster, and get the footbridge built.  

     

    There is a wartime 2mm Kingswear exhibition model, and there's Kingsbridge Regis.

     

    https://www.cmra.org.uk/exhib18/34.html

     

    https://www.westernthunder.co.uk/threads/wencombe-kingsbridge-regis-louville-lane.513/

     

    John Hayes.... small prairie cab, soon to receive Modelu crew.

     

    Looking out to sea, with the far horizon, One Gun Point, St Petrox Church and Warfleet Creek to the right. 

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    • Like 17
  3. Thanks Re6/6.... I bet that's got the best view!  It's on Church Hill if I remember.  This one was Carlton House in '47, without the modern add ons, it's at the northern junction of Higher St and Fore St, done in cream with blue quoins and window mouldings.  The tall red brick building two houses along Higher St was a sail loft, so presumably it had no upper floor? 

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    • Round of applause 1
  4. Artists' acrylics are good for doing backscenes on exhibition layouts, but they are not much fun to paint with, as you end up with a dry pallet too quickly for comfort!

     

    As long as there's no risk of water damage, Gouache paints are more fun, as you can return to a dry pallet with a wet brush and bring your colours back to life, instead of having to mix them again. 

     

    It's fine to overpaint it in layers as well, just like opaque oils or acrylics, and that's the method I used on Marlow Church & Bridge from the lock c1900.

     

    It does need an absorbent surface such as watercolour paper, which would be perfectly good for an indoor backscene on a permanent layout by just spray gluing it onto mounting card, and then curving it round behind your model as a diorama painting.

     

     

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  5. Re6/6.... Thanks very much for your reply.  Perhaps Bodmin can be re-done at some point, I'm glad the buildings were kept aside as they are such a time consuming aspect of a prototype model.

     

    Kingswear is such a distinctive setting that we had to try and get all the background in before the station & yard models are permanently installed.

     

    We are ready to start that now, and the canopy is in progress with 3D printed brackets done and fold up lattice support posts on order.

     

    There will be a news update every few weeks now, as things come together.

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  6. 22 hours ago, Scene but not Heard said:

    relative to all other buildings and features on a layout, there is only point where a spectator can stand to see the correct illusion.

    True, the first layer of near scale structures behind the railway are often conveniently parallel to the line, so they don't usually need any unrealistic and conflicting perspectives.  Beyond these, I find the trick is to do a gentle, layered middle distance two point illusion with a painted skyline and 3D building facades in relief.  Restricting any unrealistic angles of observation on either side using view blockers usually results in visitors tending to just study that scene, then moving along to the next feature without disappointment.  It's my closest method of forcing an 'X marks the spot' and this cheating can be done all the way along many freelance landscapes as long as there is a little depth allowance.

     

     

    For me, photo backscene prints work very well as stand alone 'distance' representations, but they are more difficult to actually blend into 3D.  Prints can work perfectly well as individually cut collage elements, as long as their perspective matches the layout's horizon datum.

     

    Two 'in progress' pics of Bucks Hill show view blocking at work, where the unwanted aspect is obscured as soon as the observer moves a few feet to one side. 

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  7. Painted buildings can be successfully included on a backscene in perspective, but because the scale layout foreground has a different horizon datum to the artificial backscene illusion, it's the sharp transition between the two that sometimes gives trouble.  View blockers can help to control the observation angles in some cases, but middle and far distance buildings look great in perspective.  Why struggle, just leave yourself a bit of depth for a 3D backscene portrayal in the foreground, it's by far the most convincing method of gradually easing the eye away from the lineside and to the distance, and you can include plenty of interest and character to the locality in the process.

     

    (The feint blue horizon datum in the 'Generate a Panorama' colour pic corresponds to the far distance. and all the different vanishing points are registered along it).

     

    Screen Shot 2019-02-07 at 11.01.11.png

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  8. Have I misunderstood the spirit of this thread?

     

    I thought it was for your, i.e. one's own, modelling?

     

    Or at least where one has had some input to creating a bigger cameo/scene?

     

     

    This is an old one just changed to sepia.

     

    Not perfect by any means but I'll own the blurry station and wobbly signwriting!

     

    And everything else as well...

     

    By the way Andy, I noticed there were no model photos at all in your gallery, so why don't you take some of your diorama/layout pictures and put them up here?

     

    I'm sure everybody is waiting to see what you have been up to lately model wise.

     

    Looking forward to some photo realism in your next post then, don't leave it too long. 

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    • Like 18
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