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IanStock

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Posts posted by IanStock

  1. On 09/07/2020 at 22:38, SHerr said:

    Tarbert (not Tarbet!) the real location is on Loch Fyne between Lochgilphead and Campbeltown.

     

    The layout was initially conceived as an Ian Futers style small Moray Coast terminus but has grown somewhat from those plans, not to mention moved location by a few hundred miles.

     

    Whilst planning the small terminus which was always intended to play second fiddle to my main layout, I decided that my main layout was actually too big (never heard that one before!) and was not getting anywhere but also the electrics were becoming too complicated for me as this is not my strong point, and the curved section of the layout was getting too many derailments. After a few planning sessions I became confident enough that within the loft I could get both a bigger and smaller layout.

     

    I will focus here on the smaller layout which is going to be 12' by 2' widening at the station end.

     

    whilst researching the era I think I read the Crinan thread too many times and decided to change fora number of reasons.

     

    It is assumed that the Caledonian Railway stated building a line from Connel Ferry down to Campbeltown, however funding became stretched so it was eventually built in too stages terminating initially at Tarbert and then an extension on to Campbeltown. However Tarbert remained a terminus for what was little more than a glorified light railway extension.

     

    The layout is set in 1966-68 timeframe so will allow both class 21 and 29 plus 20, 27 and occasional 24, 25 and 26 workings. The Campbeltown branch is worked in a similar vein to the Ballachulish or Killin branches with a loco and 1 or 2 coaches and occasional freight trips. Services north split and join from the main Callander and Oban line at Connel Ferry and take a 2 or 3 coach portion - I have assumed the C&O didn't close as early and is still bumbling on.

     

    211462014_WestCoastTarbert4.png.e2a668d3d52837c2e0ba906f4ab037e7.png

     

     

    The Track plan is inspired by Ballachulish and was probably built at a very similar time so is feasible.

     

    There is a link to a nearby distillery and a quayside that still see's regular fish traffic although no longer transports the Whisky out by ship. I am assuming the Distillery branch feeds more than one location and is likely to be served by an Andrew Barclay tank.

     

    Other general produce, Coal, Vans etc still run to the goods yard and Grain arrives for the distillery and barrels leave in open wagons.

     

    I will hopefully post a few more early updates in the next few days

    I think there are several Tarbe(r)ts - including another one further down Kintyre. It just means a gap/low point through a range of hills. Useful for rail routes, of course.

     

  2. Thanks for your comments! The fishing boat isn't the card kit - I used the Scalescenes printout as a template to make it from plasticard. There's a post on it on the blog https://trainsandtrad.wordpress.com/2020/06/16/something-distinctly-fishy/  and I've just written up an article which I hope will appear in RM in due course. I have one of the Artitec ones pending building - it looks good, nice castings, but lousy instructions - and it's a lot smaller than the Scalescenes one.  I don't post on MRweb simply because I've followed too many people for whom it became a lead weight around their neck, to the point that it ruined their modelling. The bigger the crowd, the greater the risk, it seems to me. There is an FB group that I moderate with Paul Sherwood - Model Railway ReaIism and my blog links to that - some great workers on there, about 1500 people in all. Private group, but if you send me your details... Slight shame you've changed your mind on Moray, but it's a free(-ish) world!

  3. It's a large yard for the middle of 'La France Profonde', isn't it? The photo must have been taken a few years ago, as one of the 'Panoramique' rail cars can be seen in the left background. There's a 'Grille Thermique' with a few BB66000 to the right background; the large white building next to it probably has a 'foyer' where drivers would lodge overnight- SNCF still have lots of lodging turns. I looked at a more recent Google Earth photo, which shows the majority of the track still in situ, but only a couple of wagons in the main set of sidings. The stabling point still housed a rail-car, and a couple of diesels, however.

    It can't be so long ago, as the colour light signal gantry is standing (well, at least one of them is...) and the track layout is pretty much as now. Unfortunately it almost perfectly duplicates one I took myself, though this is clearer. Editor of CM said that Peco would love me forever if I can persuade anyone to model that yard!!! 

  4. Or go to Wikipedia as you can use their photos if you credit the photographer. I don't mind visiting Capdenac for some photos if it's not too urgent (Summer or Autumn at the earliest)

     

    Peter, Wikipedia doesn't actually have many really good pictures of a resolution needed to publish. Thanks for the suggestion, though. I would certainly be interested in any you were able to take, there is no immediate hurry for them, though CM does already have the article. Some general views of the station, one of the outside of the station building and if possible one of the river bridge would be really helpful. Obviously there would be a payment in it....

  5. Good afternoon all...

     

    I haven't posted here for a good while - have been 'away' from railways for the best part of a year while dealing with various health issues.... Glad to say there is a bit of modelling being done again at last....

     

    I'm preparing an article for Continental Modeller on Capdenac Gare. Unfortunately, when I visited a couple of years ago, my camera was playing up, and I ended up with only a few usable pictures. Just wondering if anyone has any of either present or past at the station and environs, of a suitable resolution for publication. Or whether any of the France-dwelling members on here are close enough that they could go and take a few. There would be appropriate recognition and recompense from either me or Peco Publications!

     

    I can be reached at ian[at]sandistock.plus.com if you would rather go off-group.

    Many thanks

    Ian

  6. Hi, I've been enjoying your work for a little while now... ;-)  Just wondered whether you have tried Redutex? I've recently started using it and it strikes me it would be very good for that stonework.

     

    regards

    Ian

  7. I'm building a model using 2mm assn code 40/copperclads and running French N scale stock. Standards similar to Cav's. Can be done if you're careful about flange depth. See my blog (link in footer)

     

    Regards

    Ian

     

    Lovely stuff Jerry.

     

    A question.....! Has an 'N' version of 00-SF, l guess N-SF ever been tried?

     

    The reason for the question is that l'm looking for a finer 'N' 9mm 1:160 scale track with finer looking crossings that could take the modern later and finer continental stock without having to wheel change. When l was a member of the 2MM Society some years ago there was a continental section in the society but l never managed to progress with anything.

  8. No, I drew a blank on that too, so I made my own.

     

    Just used some brass strip. Wrapped some masking tape round it, used some Peco track, marked the tops of the rails with marker pen, pushed the brass down onto it and then carefully cut slits with a mini drill disc where the marks were. It seems to have been good enough! Very few problems so far.

     

    I made three point jig in a similar way by cutting across the arms of a V folded piece too. Check rails are possible though I found that the thickness of a piece of brass strip was just as reliable.

     

    Hope that helps.

     

    Ian

  9. Hmm. Each entirely to their own of course. Most of the points made above probably have traction. It is true that finer scale track is less sturdy and probably less durable in the long run. It is definitely true that it requires more work. But I can't agree with parity of appearance.

     

    Each will have their own priorities and tolerances, but if there were no difference in the appearance, I don't think I would have persevered. Sad though I may be, I still sometimes just sit there looking at my layout (so far) and just soak up how much better code 40 rail with decent sleeper spacing and track geometry looks :-)

     

    I thing that is more apparent that minute variations in gauge - and it's worth remembering that you can use code 40 rail, with care, without ne

    eding to go the whole hog into 2mm FS.

  10. Hello David, entirely reasonable decision. Fine scale is not for everyone, and I nearly made the same decision, though in the end I decided to plough on. It's definitely true that there are hidden issues fine fine/hand built track, in terms of longer term reliability, and even getting the electrics right can be difficult. I had not expected, for example, the hours spent tracking down multiple stray short circuits between sleepers and in turnouts that kept bringing the whole thing to a halt. It is clearly better to build a little and get such things right, rather than build a lot and then discover the problems, as I did.

     

    I've seen some of the French guys doing interesting things with Peco track. They seem much more prepared than us to cut out the whole sleeper web and spring mechanisms around the switch blades and re-do them with Tortoises or similar, while retaining the reliability through the crossing. Might be worth a try?

     

    Ian

  11. Hi David, yes you're right, but my reasons were different... I got as far as building about ten lengths of FineTrax plain track and three turnouts. I was having problems with the getting the blades to take to the tie bar, but that's all. My real issue was the size of the flanges on some continental stock - much bigger than on modern UK N gauge. That's why I switched first to 2mm Soc flat bottomed Easitrack - which is also nice to make up - and eventually to soldered track as it was the only way I could avoid having to re-wheel the stock.

     

    If/when I go back to UK modelling, I will certainly give FiNetrax another look, though you're right, if you want custom turnouts there is still no substitute for building your own. I haven't found it too difficult, and the FiNetrax ones were definitely good practice for scratch building. I have so far done about fifteen and no failures... I will probably use either FiNetrax or Easitrack plain track in future too.

     

    I'd urge you to stick with it - or even give a full scratch build a go. I'm using my FiNetrax jigs for that too...

     

    cheers

    Ian

    Hi Ian,

     

    I had a look at you blog via the link in your signature.

     

    Am I right that you've not pursued the Finetracks much further than a test track and have now jumped into full scratch-building with copper-clad etc? 

     

    I guess that sums up what appears to be Finetracks biggest challenge - as you have to solder up and file your own switch blades and tie-bar it doesn't seem too much of a jump to go the whole hog and build from scratch.

     

    Perhaps this is best explained by suggesting that if there were a continuum between ready-to-lay peco and scratch built track; Finetracks are maybe 70% of the way along, instead of the 50% which would make them a "half-way house".

     

    I am still in two minds, but in order to make the baseboards to my usual size (and in order to fit at home) I don't have much room beneath the baseboards for cobalts which would appear to be the ideal point motor for the kit built points.

     

    Cheers

     

    David 

  12. Hello David, I've just discovered your thread - interesting project, as I've considered building FW myself several times, but looking out to the loch instead...  Regarding track, I've been conducting similar experiments to yours. I found the Finetrax points difficult at the switchblade end, though recent changes may have improved the matter.

     

    I've built Scottish recently but I've set myself a different challenge now, with a French layout. There is an additional problem there in that many continental flanges are still larger than current ones on UK models. A combination of the two problems led me to join the 2mm Soc and use their components to build all my track that way. It works fine to N standards, and I was able to make the necessary gauges by hand. I can give more details if you want them. While they may not be as accurate as commercial ones, they seem to have produced a track that is working fine for me.

     

    I also struggled with Templot but eventually got enough sussed to print out my track plan and build everything straight onto it - gives lovely sweeping track which I fear no unit track system will ever replicate. I would suggest that FW probably does need a similar approach if you want to retain the character of that station throat.

     

    You can see more of my trials and tribulations on my blog, the address of which is in the footer below.

     

    Regards,

    Ian

  13. Yes I agree, I found them very fragile too. Those that I built that were then stored have not endured well, which is no criticism of the product - but it does mean that the track is probably single-use only. Those using it probably know that anyway.

     

    I built some turnouts and some Easitrack on Templot printouts away from the layout. The copper-clad turnouts supported the plain track rather better. But my new all-soldered track is being built straight onto the baseboards. I think that if/when I use FiNetrax again, I will stick things down immediately. Your idea sounds workable - just not sure whether two layers would be needed.

  14. I'm currently laying copper-clad code 40 and finding that artists' mounting board makes a good smooth base - can be cut for ballast shoulders etc. and can be bought coloured brown or grey which is helpful. Perhaps not as quiet as foam or cork though - it remains to be seen.

     

    Ian

  15. Well as another beginner in the track-building business, it was easier than I expected. I have been modelling for forty years, but my only soldering experience was basic wiring, as I don't like doing the electrics. But making track is rather different. Having the right tools helps - a temperature controlled, fine tipped iron (from Maplin) makes all the difference, as does using solder paste or flux. I actually rather enjoy it.

     

    As for the FiNetrax kits, again not as difficult as expected - except for getting the crossing to lie flat once a wire is attached, and soldering the blades to the tie bar. At least that second problem seems to have been addressed in the mark 2 kits. Definitely easier to thread chairs and sleepers while they are still attached to the sprue. A magnifier helps a lot, too!

     

    I also think a bit of lateral thinking helps, when compared with using commercial track. For example, it's not so easy to attach a wire to code 40 track unobtrusively and in just the right place - then I came across the idea of fixing the wires to or through copper-clad sleepers, which makes a lot of sense and can partly be done retrospectively, once the track is down. The idea of running a pin through the board takes the idea a step further.

  16. Well you still have the option of turning the flanges down. I tried doing do using a file while turning the wheel set at low speed in a variable-speed battery hand drill. Crude, but it did take a small amount off. Not enough for the FB but maybe good for the bullhead, where there isn't also that issue of the extra .42mm lateral slop to contend with.

     

    I may be trying the bullhead for sidings yet - so if you can hold on, I'll stick a trial length down in the next day or two and see what happens.

     

    Not sure whether the 2mm Assoc. will do wheel re-profiling to anything other than full 2mm standards...

     

    What is saddening is that even the latest release CC72000 from Arnold still seems to have enormous flanges. Don't believe that all models are more refined on the continent!

  17. I've not tried the 5BEL but I have used Arnold French outline items. They just about cope given the chairs holding the rail above the sleepers. That said, I thought they were also coping with Easitrack FB until I stuck some down, at which point the rigidity kicked in and the bumping noise told me I was wrong. I haven't stuck any FiNetrax down to know whether the same thing would happen. This is why I've decided to go with soldered/copperclad track now.

     

    Ian

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