cypherman

Is it possible to add more weight over the driving wheels. Or is there no room in such a small model.

This one started out like yours.But it was not in quite so good a condition... :)

39 minutes ago, Michael Hodgson said:

I don't think that lot in 4mm will fit on a board only 1' wide.

Hi Michael, Sorry missed the 1ft bit. You are right it will not. It was designed for 2ft width. But this one should fit 1ft. It is a bit more like a small town trackplan. But it can be simplified a bit for a small country terminus. The mainline in is the middle line from the left leading to the 3 way point. It is designed in Anyrail 6.

Hi, This is my plan for a small country terminus. It should fit with what you want.

Hi all,

Thank you all for the advice. The reason I have asked is that quite a few of my Triang rebuilds have had their wheels taken off and new bushes fitted. Mainly the 3mt 2-6-2  tanks, M7s and Princesses shown below.. They ran fine on straight and curved track but ride quite a bit rough and derail over the points and I needed a guide to what was the best back to back size. They are all fitted with later wheel sets and not the huge original deep flanges Triang wheels. Hopefully I will get them running smoother over the points. I will try the Brush Type 2/ Class 31 wheel spacings first and see what happens.

Hi all,

Thank you all for the advice. The reason I have asked is that quite a few of my Triang rebuilds have had their wheels taken off and new bushes fitted. Mainly the 3mt 2-6-2  tanks, M7s and Princesses shown below.. They ran fine on straight and curved track but ride quite a bit rough and derail over the points and I needed a guide to what was the best back to back size. They are all fitted with later wheel sets and not the huge original deep flanges Triang wheels. Hopefully I will get them running smoother over the points. I will try the Brush Type 2/ Class 31 wheel spacings first and see what happens as I have been told that they have shoulders on the axels restricting the wheels to the correct gauge.

Hi all,

I have asked this question in the vintage section. But No one seems to want to give an answer. As some of you may know I have quite a few Triang engines in my collection. What I need to know is what is the best back to back wheel measurement for these engines to run on Peco code 100 track and points.

Hi all,

As some of you may know I have quite a few Triang engines in my collection. What I need to know is what is the best back to back wheel measurement for these engines to run on Peco code 100 track and points.

2 hours ago, Hibelroad said:

I’m not sure what cement we are talking about here, balsa glue, the powder used to make builders mortar or mortar which has actually set. Also what is the purpose of this experiment, other than being amazed. A little more background would be helpful. 

Hi Hibelroad, 

If what what I think DCB is talking about it would be similar to using superglue and backing powder but stronger to build up and repair broken locos and wagons etc. You can use the superglue/baking powder method to repair and fill models as it sets solid and can be carved to the shape you want. For instance I used this method to repair the chipped top corners of several Hornby steel coal wagons. Sorry I cannot find the pictures of this repair. I built up the corners of the wagons with superglue and baking powder and let it cure for a couple of hours. I was then able to file them back to the correct shape. I think the pictures may be still be on this site somewhere. If the concrete and superglue is stronger that could come in very hand for bigger projects.

Hi TyBryn,

If you are not going to run it as DCC and intend to keep running DC you can easily rewire it and cut out the DCC wiring all to gether.

Hi all,

Like Trainnoob I use acid free wrapping tissue paper. Sounds expensive, But it is not really as I bought the paper to wrap stored locos. One pack had more than enough for the original purchase and also make tarpaulins. One sheet could do 30+ wagons.

On 02/04/2024 at 11:11, SR71 said:

@cypherman

I have an answer for you! I opened out the chassis hole slightly to match some brass tube I had. I then reemed and tapped the tube before gluing it in. In reality I needed some thicker tube as this ended up being more of a helicoil but we will see how it holds up.

 

Hi SR71,

Thanks for the info.

Hi,

I have several of these engines with the same tenders. I have never had this problem with them. I must double check mine again.

1 hour ago, manna said:

G'Day Brian

 

Well packed container, think I might have to get one one day. I only had to move it 2,300 km, I took 6 days to get there, unload and get back. All safe and sound.

 

Strange, my surname is on one of your boxes.

 

manna

Hi Manna, Which name is that. Contents perhaps.......😅. When we moved 20 years ago. We moved 130 miles. We had 2 large removals wagons and 3 cars. That took 2 days to do. All my model railway stock engines/coaches/wagons were in my estate car. Did it safe and sound, Except for some of my wife's best china which the removals firm managed to break.

Looking forwards to seeing your finished updated crane. I have 3 of them. Not updated as such, more restored to nearly original condition.

Hi all,

When the Airfix class 31 came out I always thought it was a major improvement over the Triang/Hornby one. It is not just the class 31 that scrubs up well. With a bit of work nearly all the old Lima and Hornby 1980's locos can be made to look really good.

Hi,

You can buy crushed slate in bags from your local builders merchants. These pictures are all using crushed slate. Now I know this is 32mm but the slate does crush down much finer if you want.

Hi all,

Dapol sell the transfers for their wagon kits separately. They are very cheap at about £1.50 per set. Not a huge range, But enough to do a couple of extra wagons.

Hi Sabreton,

This video should tell you everything you need to know.

Hi,

I suggest you try and get in touch with this guy through his YouTube channel. Has has been building Piccadilly station and it's surrounding lines in N gauge for several years now. I suspect he should be able to help you.

https://www.youtube.com/@piccadillymodelrailways

Hi,

Is the chassis made of Mazak by any chance. To the best of my knowledge Mazak will not take solder.

7 hours ago, Right Away said:

 

Does this help…..?

Photo dated August ‘61.

 

Hi, Yes that is brilliant. It is the clearest picture I have seen showing that the mushroom vents at the front were not fitted or removed from this engine. Many thanks.

Hi all,

I rather like the look of that slate grey brake van.

Hi Les,

Hafix industrial superglue should work. I have not found anything that it cannot stick so far.

https://www.hafixs.co.uk/products/profglue/index.html

Hi all,

 bought a couple of terriers to add to my collection. What has confused me is that one of my Hornby terriers 'Brighton Works' does not have the 2 upright vents at the front of the tanks. While a later model from Hornby does. I have seen pictures of this engine without these vent. But which one is correct for this engine.