Spitfire2865

Just messing about with Google Maps, I found something amusing. An almost perfect inglenook. https://www.google.com/maps/@42.6653051,-73.739102,143a,35y,270h,39.53t/data=!3m1!1e3

May be wrong, but I think I remember similar happenings 3 Coopercraft threads ago, or there about. Didnt exactly go well to my memory.

Looking at that video, it looks more like the wheel BTB doesnt match the points, If your check rails and BTB are properly proportioned, you should never be jumping the frog. If its the check rails at fault, a sliver of plasticcard or paper glued to them to beef them up may help. A bonus for minitrains points is their small radius at only 5". Shinohara HO2-1/2 points were 6" radius at the smallest, but finding them now that Shinohara have closed down will be tricky. Ive got a few stashed for a future micro layout. Peco points are at a minimum 9" radius (also dont look very narrow gauge-y)

Well thats a shame. NWSL is a well respected name. Hopefully someone wants to buy it.

That is quite strange. Ebay always tells you NOT to post until you have payment. Ive had a situation before where someone paid for an item with a CC through paypal rather than paypal directly so it took a few days to clear before I could post, but this issue isnt the same as yours.

For renumbering something at home, its much easier to find transfers or decals and apply those yourself. Tampo printing isnt practical for single home use. I am unaware of any single modeller who uses tampo printing for models.

No noticable difference through Chrome on W10, but I too would prefer horizontal submenus as in the days of old.

Just happened again twice today in the "Ebay Madness" thread. Same thing as described.

Is 3 1/4" used anywhere anymore? I know 3 1/2" is quite popular still.

You Brits and your wagon brake troubles. We Americans clearly got it correct right from the start! \ (Image is public domain if anyone somehow thinks I would even claim I could do engraving)

Strange as I always have just gotten the "No new content" mark at the bottom, never redirected doing that. Its always when Im IN a topic. Usually when Im halfway through reading a sentence!

Thanks. Definitely its not happening on content deleted while I was reading, as its still findable afterwards.

Hello, Hope this is the right spot. Since the update, this has happened at least 3 times to me while browsing. Most recently just before Im posting this. When reading a topic the page will suddenly, without input, refresh and redirect to the homepage. This is not me clicking a prompt on screen as I can no longer return to the previous page using the back arrow, nor does it appear in my web history as a closed tab. I cant actually find any evidence of ever being on the page at all, as it then still shows up in the "new unread content" feed I have set up. Im lost as to why I would be redirected to the homepage while I am currently active in a specific page with no input from me. Its like the website forgets the page Ive opened and instead redirects me to the landing page. Has anyone had something similar?

How did I not see this post back when it was new? Youd be surprised at how common an open door was. Obviously they are supposed to be closed, latched, and locked in transit but often was forgotten or neglected. Next thing you know your shipment is sharing a roof with unwelcome guests. Different means of locking doors were in use, from proper locks, to latches, to wire twisted together with a lead seal. If it wasnt latched fully or left unlocked, the door could rattle open during running. A lot can happen when no supervisors are around.

If anyone calls you out on it, tell them you model a parallel universe where that accident not happening was the only difference!

How long ago did you send the email. Some traders may have a backlog of emails or only check it infrequently. The second bit about sending mail order looks to be only for those yet to acknowledge the existence of internet based payment methods.

While it may not be very different, there are two preserved 1Fs, of which both have to have gone through extensive overhauls in the past, and would probably have generated quite a bit of photographic interest. Which is why I asked. As the later 3Fs were done by a different designer, I would rather not rely on 3F information for my design.

I havent that book. While Ive got their perpendicularity, its the general shape and the cylinder block that I cant find from my drawings. As its for a G3 loco, theres quite a bit of detail I can fit in it if I know what it all looks like.

Hello all. Im going about designing for a Midland 1377 class and am stumped on the motion and the general area of it. Ive got the HMRS drawings relevant but beyond the very busy drawings, I cant really seem to make sense of the shapes of some parts. The motion plate being at an angle doesnt help either. Anyone have or know of any photos of either of the two preserved 1Fs during overhauls? Thanks!

Dont see why that wouldnt be suitable. Ive done similar with no issue before. Though for a major wire I would use a braided type if possible.

LNWR made their tiebars like truss rods, while the Midland just had a straight shot between solebars. From the drawing, the strap looks to have a bent up foot. Perhaps it was simply nailed or screwed into the middle beam? Its not like it was expected to withstand substantial force, just hold a lump of metal from crashing into the chairs in the rare occasion something goes wrong.

Certainly not American, considering everything about it. Though no idea why it would be in the US, AFAIK we didnt import any steam locomotives past the 1850s. Could be a special case of a Central or South American locomotive being bought to save from scrappers.

Shapeways has historically been VERY iffy when it comes to sprues. Sometimes they are adamant they will not allow it, yet they often tell people to sprue together to save time and money.

With the last few details of the boxcar being added the past weeks, its finally time for paint. It took 1/2oz of paint to cover sufficiently. Two entire jars of Testors paint! I had to brushpaint it as I didnt want to airbrush it and "paint the town red", which actually is one of the theorized origins to the phrase since oxide red was the default paint colour in the US for quite a while.

As long as your varnish coats arent too thick and you let them properly dry you shouldnt be getting hazing on them. Ive used spray varnish on etched brass before to good effect.