Spitfire2865

If put together with a plastic solvent glue, not really a chance. These glues 'weld' the material together and its often difficult if not impossible to remove a part with minimal damage. If a non-solvent based glue was used, possibly if said glue has a removal chemical which somehow does not attack plastic.

not sure what you mean by "positive feed....after the 3 way". Peco's plan relies on a different wiring principal to mine. For the isolated sections, only if you want isolated sections. In my plan as drawn, you could, as per normal DCC wiring, have two bus wires along the underside of the board and wire all power droppers to the respective bus(upper and lower rail), and run the frog polarity wire to your point motor(wiring your point motor into your transformer auxiliary power so you can operate points when trains arent running). In this situation, All tracks will be powered to your transformer at all times, perfect for single locomotive on DC or multiple locos on DCC. If you wanted to add isolating sections, you would need to identify exactly Where and How long each isolated section would be and then insert IRJ to block that section off (If not already isolated by IRJ on a point frog or if in a different place) and run the power feed from that isolated section to a switch on your panel and then back to the power bus wire respective to the rail you have isolated. In cases of isolated sections, I would personally go with a double pole switch and isolate both rails of a section, but thats just me and my typical 'belt and braces' approach to all work. If you want an entire siding isolated, you could add another IRJ at the end of the respective points stock rail and leave the entire siding isolated. Ultimately, the plan I have drawn above is the bare minimum for the modern "recommended" wiring scheme for all track being powered. Any changes such as isolated sections/block sections is added on top of the plan already and should not change what is already there. If you can on a drawing clearly identify where you would like isolated sections, I would be happy to modify my drawing to illustrate exactly what you need with a wiring schematic to your control panel.

Looking at Peco's plan, I would not go with it. It relies solely on fishplate continuity and doesnt allow any proper isolated sections. Even if you only have one loco on at a time and need no isolated sections, wiring everything as if you were going to is incredibly helpful for running qualities. There are few people now a days which will not advocate for the full wiring that DCC requires, usually because they know after a while the traditional simple wiring just doesnt cut it. I would not reduce the number of track feeds if I were you. But if you must, just trace every rail length to where it naturally terminates, whether it be an IRJ, track end, or point frog. That one length needs a feed. (Actually looking over my plan again, the only two that arent "critical" are the two rightmost "red" feeds as they are satisfied further left. But I would still HIGHLY recommend soldering a track feed to EVERY rail length, or at MOST limiting yourself to as little reliance on fishplates as you can. I know soldering to points can be a little difficult, especially with how expensive some of them were. On a previous (now scrapped) layout, I had to modify and solder together a doubleslip and point due to space constraints. Not to mention the joint between them had to then be strengthened with copperclad and cut across a folding baseboard joint! It was quite the harrowing experience needing to cut apart and put together expensive points.

Your response from Peco sounds like they are giving a simpler plan than modern wiring recommends so as to make it easier for you. However for DCC, and DC if you want blocks or isolating sections for multiple locos, the modern practice. Here, Ive drawn over your plan to illustrate exactly where IRJ and power feeds need to be for full operation. Blue is an IRJ, Red and Green are your pos and neg power feeds, however you wish to use them. If you wanted to go with frog polarity switching using DPDT switches, youll have to chop the frog wires underneath the points and bridge between switchrails and the adjacent stock rail. For the 3 way, unless theres some weird frog wiring underneath, this should work. Ive added extra power feeds in certain spots which arent completely needed but its best to not rely on fishplates for your power transfer between track sections. Anyone see any issues with this plan? Im not too familiar with peco's 3 way.

Best of luck with that move.

I was one of such people to give suggestions of other forums with more G1 activity, however I never implied it wasnt welcome here, and that was never my intent. However I have noticed after several years here that larger scale modelling is very much a minority of a minority and if you come here expecting activity beyond what you make yourself, you will be waiting a while. Which is why Ive moved my own large scale modelling to more active forums. Still doesnt make RMweb a bad place for good discussion and impressive modelling.

Quite impressive. A great deal more intricate than my attempt at an RC boat, and I even had more scale to work in!

I think you may have misunderstood what I intended as a joke referring to your situation on the train. More specifically, the awkward social situations one can find themselves in when outdoors.

I avoid situations like that by not leaving my house. Edit: This Is A Joke

Taught over the load to prevent water sitting, typically rucked up on the sides and tied down via the eyelets. Corners pulled and folded around the ends and tied to the opposite corner. Sometimes extra ropes thrown over the top to secure the center. If the load is larger, two or more tarps were used overlapped by quite a margin and individually tied down. They took no chances of tarps being blown off and goods being damaged.

Bought a modern pug around 2014 and it ran well through peco Streamline code 75 points. Quite nice slow speed too so I never needed to consider the highlevel chassis kit.

Not sure how the kitmaker intended, but I would install a threaded post to act as the kingpin and retain underneath with a nut. Though youd probably have to glue in a tube to the bolster to match it.

Is there any reason certain people tend to "label" themselves with all these terms, yet are angry with the concept of labeling people? Ive never really understood it. Technically, Im the B portion of that much loved/hated acronym (initialism) but Ive never gone out to advertise it as its not really pertinent to any aspect of my life beyond what I enjoy privately. Certainly not something Id want to advertise to random people for the singular purpose of its not important to almost any discussion. Anyone with more experience with those who use labels more widely? Edit:Im a grammar pendant.

Ive used mine to great effect sanding the distinctive curved headstock ends of LNWR wagons in G3. Ive also been slapped in the cheek by an exploding cutting disk. Its a useful bit of kit but its always annoying digging it out for a single job.

Everyone is weird in their own way. Problems happen when some people think they are "normal" and everyone else is wrong. The sooner society stops giving a what everyone else does privately, the sooner we can all live together.

I admit Im no expert, but knowing similar practices in the mil defense industry, if it works, there is NO reason to improve it unless absolutely necessary due to exterior restrictions or requirements. And very often the cost for the upgrade is unattractive compared to just fixing whats wrong and getting it back out to use. Ive seen outdated designs come for repair just to get a single new part, a quick repaint, and ship right back out to use. Id assume upping a rating 2 tons by changing bearings would be a task left to last. An 8 ton wagon on the road is a lot more valuable than a 8 ton in line for overhaul. So Id think once a wagon comes in for a relivery (7 years approx), wreck repair, or major overhaul due to rust or rot, it probably would stay as an 8 ton for as long as it was usable. So you could reasonably expect a good condition 8 ton wagon to last perhaps a decade after introduction of the larger journals for new builds. Though of course there are always exceptions, like that LNW low sided wagon in 1939 with 1908 livery.

Next size up on self tapping? Or same size different threat standard?

Be careful with your photos. Unlike photobucket who just locked it behind a paywall, flickr will purge their servers of these photos that dont meet their new free account guidelines. Quite a cruel choice for them considering their previous policies for years now.

Im not sure how you get UK mail to WA in a week but I cant get it to NY in less than 2... Ive certainly had my fair share of mailing mishaps and delays. Especially around the holidays. I say give it until after the mad rush of Christmas is over and if it hasnt still shown up, contact the seller to inquire exactly when it was shipped. Ive been bitten by sellers even here in the states where they claim it was mailed, however when I chase them around and finally get it delivered, the postmark clearly states it had been shipped only after I threw a stink about it.

Oh I definitely dont have the room. But I do love building them!

I work in Gauge 3, so quite a bit bigger than 7mm. I use actual fabric as when caked in thick paint, looks quite the part. For smaller scales, Id consider something like fine silk even. But for a paper napkin, Id say spreading some pva down across the smoothed roof and laying it on gently would work. Just put some clips on the hanging ends to help keep it taught while drying.

Just makes people throw out stupid offers in my experience.

Those look fantastic.

Looks like youre making good progress.

Perhaps a contact cement?