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RichardL

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Posts posted by RichardL

  1. 6 hours ago, NXEA! said:

    I've seen mention of these working Lydney docks. I'm off on holiday to Lydney in September, can anyone provide me with any reference material and pointers on Google Earth/Maps as to where the railway was? I can feel a small dock layout and a couple 16xx's coming on... 

    Lydney harbour is still there, well worth a visit. There are a number of interpretive panels in place showing the layout/ operation etc with photos from the Pope/ Parkhouse collection. Info/ photos etc in numerous books on the area.

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  2. Could anybody help me with the colours used for the interior of the A30 autocoaches. Panelling (internal) is said to be 'cream plastic', presumably formica/weyrock, seat ends etc looks to be varnished timber, but I can't find any info on the upholstery colours used. I've seen photos of a striped fabric and also a photo which looks to be leatherette. Both photos are in b&w. No info on material/colour of the floor, brown lino?

     

    Anybody able to help?

     

    Cheers

     

    Richard Lane

  3. Could anybody help me with the colours used for the interior of the A30 autocoaches. Panelling (internal) is said to be 'cream plastic', presumably formica/weyrock, seat ends etc looks to be varnished timber, but I can't find any info on the upholstery colours used. I've seen photos of a striped fabric and also a photo which looks to be leatherette. Both photos are in b&w. No info on material/colour of the floor, brown lino?

     

    Anybody able to help?

     

    Cheers

     

    Richard Lane

  4. I've spent some time and effort looking at led lights, and demonstrated my findings at scaleforum last year. 

     

    Rather than a long, detailed and very boring post I'll  make some suggestions, based on detailed colour readings and calculations.

     

    Firstly, you'll get what you pay for! Some of the cheapish led tapes give very poor colour rendition, (tending towards a lack of green (no, you can't put a green filter over them, doesn't work like that. )). Many of the cheaper tapes also have a wide spacing and narrow beam, leading to a noticable pooling of light, especially when parallel to the track.

     

    My conclusion was that the best colour and light intensity that I could find was to use two strips of bright white and one strip of warm white, this gave a colour temp of 5500k and a very even colour rendition. Some people commented that it was very bright,  however, the numbers showed that it wasn't as bright as natural daylight, but will provide all the light that I need for my layout. 4ft x 18in. Having tried my lights out on a much larger layout, the owner has decided to go with a similar set up. A single strip of each of warm and bright white was tried, giving a good colour balance but not quite enough overall light on a large (3ft deep) area.

     

    The power supply unit for my cameo layout would need to be a 36 watt supply.

     

    The supplier that I used was led hut. Many others are available.

     

    Cheers

     

    Richard Lane

  5. In 'BR Steam in Dean' (Ashworth/Pope) page 18, there are two photos dated 4th April 1962, of a weed killing train consisting of brake van, van, 4 tankers, coach, outside framed siphon and another brake van.

    The coach and siphon appear to be in a two toned livery.

    If anybody has more detailed knowledge of this train, or can point me in the right direction for further info, I'd be very grateful.

    Cheers

    Richard Lane

  6. But, if you had tried it, you would know that it was nonsense, unless you use an underpowered iron or too small a tip. The molten solder boils the flux on contact and that starts the local heating necessary for the solder to bond. Provided the iron can maintain the tip temperature well above the solder melting point, there's no chance of 'freezing'.

     

    Oh come on, they aren't really that different

     

    I wish you'd tell us some believable reasons for not carrying solder on the iron! As to reasons in it's favour, how about speed, convenience, not needing to spend time cutting up and placing small pieces of solder, and being able to solder at any angle without the solder fragments moving from where you want them.

     

    Nick

    How about the antimony (present in most low melt solders) vaporises at approx. 300oC? Not nice stuff to breath in.

     

    I can and have used convention irons for whitemetal, but prefer to use a 60W  Maplin soldering station at about 280C, usually 12% phosphoric, and slivers of solder along the joint. I find that a quick touch of tip cleaner wets the iron beautifully to start the soldering and a quick wipe of tip cleaner allows you to use the iron for brass etc with no fuss.

     

    You will find as many opinions as facts on here, find a way that suits you and use it.

     

    Richard Lane

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