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Mick Bonwick

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  1. Mick Bonwick
    This topic will use an AMMO by Mig wash, Africa Korps Wash A.MIG-1001. Why? Because I have some and it has a red tinge to it, which I thought would work on a green vehicle.
     
    The jar needed a good shaking and mixing before being applied because the pigment had separated from the carrier and there was a ridge of hardened paint around the inside of the lid. I obviously didn't heed my own advice the last time I used it, and didn't clean the top and rim before replacing the lid.
     
    Application was done with a rigger brush, allowing capillary action to take the wash into all of the panel join lines and along body creases. It looks a mess at this stage, but will be left for 15 to 20 minutes to dry, before the next stage.
     

  2. Mick Bonwick
    For some time now I have been meaning to have a go with a microbrush. I'm sure they've been on sale for years, and been used by thousands of modellers for all sorts of useful things, but I've never had a go. Until now. By applying a very small amount of wash from the tip of the rigger brush, I was able to just about colour the tiny bristles of the microbrush. The tip was then poked carefully at areas of the car where I thought rust would form. I have no photograph of a rusty SunbeamTalbot 90 to work from, so have guessed where the rust might form by recalling all the work I had to do when 'fixing' my own cars all those years ago. You can see where my guesswork placed the rust in this photograph, and if anybody knows that it's in the wrong place(s) then please let me know.
     

  3. Mick Bonwick
    The application of rusty areas is now finished. Some of the more obvious blobs of wash have been either removed or significantly diminished in appearance. Simple wiping with a damp (white spirit) rigger brush, holding the bristles as flat to the surface as possible, will achieve this. The model was left to dry for an hour or so (measured in coffee consumption at the rate of one every 30 minutes) and then given a generous coat of Testor's Dullcote from an aerosol can. This part of the process achieves two things - it protects the wash finish in subsequent stages and removes the high gloss shine of the paint finish.
     

     

    No masking was done. The whole model was covered.
  4. Mick Bonwick
    The Dullcote has presented a nice matt surface for the next stage - pigment application. The aim is to use two colours to represent various rust tones. Well, two, at least!
     
    The first one is MIG Productions Track Brown, now marketed as Abteilung 502 Track Rust. It is used here to augment the rust spots by creating a larger rusty area with surface rust just starting.
     

  5. Mick Bonwick
    The second application of pigment is AK Interactive Dark Earth. This has been used to represent areas of bodywork where rust is only just starting to show through the paintwork, and also to impart a dusty appearance to the whole model. Note that it has been used on some of the chromed areas (bumpers and hubcaps) to give the impression of rust taking hold. Application was achieved with the filbert brush.
     
     
     

  6. Mick Bonwick
    Even though the car is pretty grotty, I thought that the driver might make an effort to keep the windows clean. Clean white spirit has been used to remove the Dullcote layer. Soaking a cocktail stick (wooden variety) in the white spirit will allow a gentle rubbing action to gradually remove the dried Dullcote a little at a time, and if you don't go right into the corners it can leave an accumulation of 'dirt' there. The tiny flakes that will be left adhering to the plastic windows through static electricity can be removed by wiping with a cotton swab or a blast of air from the airbrush.
     
    This would have been the last stage for this model, but recent information received suggests that there are some areas where rust should be, and isn't. More to come. . . . . . . . .
     


     

  7. Mick Bonwick
    Another 1/43rd model, by Oxford Diecast.
     
    Back in the days when cars were cars and boys were boys, I spent my time car spotting. Trains had no interest for me, where I lived they were all green and electric. One of the cars I drooled over was the Sunbeam Talbot 90, and when Oxford Diecast brought out their model of it in 7mm scale, I just had to have one.
     
    This is what it looks like out of the box:
     

     
    This is what it will look like at the end:
     

  9. Mick Bonwick

    White Coach Roof Weathering

    By Mick Bonwick,


    Weathering
    I have been asked, and sometimes see questions, about weathering colouring of white coach roofs. I have ploughed through books and looked at photographs and decided that in the days when such roofs were in mainline service they discoloured fairly evenly and quite quickly. I have seen many references to such roofs in preserved service and it seems to me that they do not weather in the same way because their use differs.
     
    This is a personal view!
     
    I have attempted to replicate this process using Railmatch Roof Dirt, the tone of which has been randomly altered by adding Weathered Black at times, thinned a lot with white spirit, and applied in very thin layers from about 30cm away. The results:
     

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