Pierre Le Brun

My intention is to position my 3 Aspect Signal somewhere near the turnout into the sidings. I have semaphore signals on both the main lines, not shown in photo. Any thoughts as to where I can position it? I know this won't be prototypical but I want to make use of it for my sidings. 

Decided not to repair the spring plungers myself as it's a bit of a faff. Sent back my 3 month old 15xx  for repair. Rapido Customer service was good, completed a simple warranty form and returned with prepaid label. Wait to see what happens. 

A YouTube session on how to replace the spring plunger units on the 15xx would be good. Unless I've missed it I'm surprised that there isn't one out there 🫣

On 04/02/2024 at 03:12, kevinlms said:

Not surprising, as usually on such devices, the DC is just taken off after the bridge rectifier. For best trouble free operation, use a separate regulated DC supply of sufficient rating. Sharing power supplies is never a good idea and trying to save costs, will end up causing problems.

 

The 'cost saving', is of course the whole point of this thread!

Agreed, I have a separate DC plug for Lights & Sound module. The Gaugemaster DC auxiliary doesn't  work either. 

I also bought a Gaugemaster Twin Track controller. Quick comparison between my Gaugemaster & Morley. Gaugemaster is half the size all steel and more robust. Morley is mostly plastic with aluminium front. The Morley has additional controls on long leads. I did find the Gaugemaster D had the edge on slowing and starting. Hand held Morley controllers are great for youngsters. If I had to keep only one it would be the Gaugemaster (but my wife likes the look of the Morley) 

Later I tried running my Gaugemaster scenic Sound module from the Morley 12v dc auxiliary connection, it produced a stuttering sound. So its not a smooth DC output. Haven't tried the Gaugemaster auxiliary yet. 

20 hours ago, Pierre Le Brun said:

 

Hi I've just taken delivery of my Morley controller and connected it up to my small N gauge Layout. I found the start up, slowing down and stopping to be very good. I bought the Crawler version. So far I'd give it a thumbs up. I also like the auxiliary power for lights etc which is DC. My Gaugemaster Combi's auxiliary was AC and caused me problems with Led's. 

On 27/01/2024 at 12:54, BMacdermott said:

Hello Pierre

 

The 'difficulty' I found with the Morley controller was that locos were either 'stopped' or 'going'. There wasn't much finesse with the starting to roll. I'd be interested to hear your experience.

 

Brian

On 27/01/2024 at 12:54, BMacdermott said:

Hello Pierre

 

The 'difficulty' I found with the Morley controller was that locos were either 'stopped' or 'going'. There wasn't much finesse with the starting to roll. I'd be interested to hear your experience.

 

Brian

Hi I've just taken delivery of my Morley controller and connected it up to my small N gauge Layout. I found the start up, slowing down and stopping to be very good. I bought the Crawler version. So far I'd give it a thumbs up. I also like the auxiliary power for lights etc which is DC. My Gaugemaster Combi's auxiliary was AC and caused me problems with Led's. 

32 minutes ago, MR Chuffer said:

I've had the Vector Zero Three Crawler http://morleycontrollers.com/shopexd.asp?id=46 for over a year now, no start/stopping issues whatsoever with up to date Bachmann and v.old Hornby and Tri-ang locos - unlike with my previous Gaugemaster Combi which I binned. Very smooth and controllable at all speeds.

 

@Pierre Le Brun The business owner retired last year but they are still shipping. I remember talking to him about shipping times and recall him saying they batch orders up and send them all out at once, mine took 7 days to get to me. V helpful if you phone or email.

 

 

I've ordered the same controller. I'm not in a hurry to receive it, I think these day's we expect almost next day shipping. Understandably It makes sense for a small manufacturing  business to send out in batches or set days. Unfortunately their website isn't the best and they could mention delivery times. 

On 24/01/2024 at 18:15, MartinRS said:

Yes but can it order a pitza?

 

On a more serious note thanks for sharing your experience of using that controller. I'm at the rolling stock accumulation stage and won't consider building a layout until I have tested loco hauling ability, and the different manufacturers track. (In TT:120 that means waiting for products to be developed). I have only ever used DC in the past and was thinking about buying a couple of Morley Controllers, based on positive comments about it here on RmWeb. The old H&M Duette will be put into storage now given the problems I have read about using it with some modern motor types.

 

I find I am becoming drawn to DCC, especially now I have seen your controller with a nice physical speed control. What's it like at shunting speeds? I ensvision a tail chaser (with pointless passenger trains running round in circles, just to provide constant movement) but I want line-side industries (and coal mines) with lots of shunting movements.

On 24/01/2024 at 18:15, MartinRS said:

Yes but can it order a pitza?

 

On a more serious note thanks for sharing your experience of using that controller. I'm at the rolling stock accumulation stage and won't consider building a layout until I have tested loco hauling ability, and the different manufacturers track. (In TT:120 that means waiting for products to be developed). I have only ever used DC in the past and was thinking about buying a couple of Morley Controllers, based on positive comments about it here on RmWeb. The old H&M Duette will be put into storage now given the problems I have read about using it with some modern motor types.

 

I find I am becoming drawn to DCC, especially now I have seen your controller with a nice physical speed control. What's it like at shunting speeds? I ensvision a tail chaser (with pointless passenger trains running round in circles, just to provide constant movement) but I want line-side industries (and coal mines) with lots of shunting movements.

I ordered a Morley controller 5 days ago as it has more spec than a Gauge master. The only thing is how long do they take to post out? I gather they are not fast. 

Looking for a Black Tender Body for my Hornby J15. Early or late crest. Adverts been on a while but still looking for a Tender body, not the chassis. 

I've just completed a Lego Build Tank Engine(of sorts). The loco is motorised with the battery in the tender. The Loco is L scale. Not sure what the tank engine equates to real life(answers on a postcard) 😁

A pleasure helping out Phil. 

I have aquired an Iphone 8 speaker and was considering using it on one of my locos. The problem I have is that it has 3 tabs for soldering. Two tabs are next to each other and a third at the opposite end of the speaker. Any idea what tabs I use for soldering? 

This week I removed a  laisdcc decoder, which never worked, from my Smokey Joe and replaced it with a Gaugemaster Ruby Decoder. I had previously removed the capacitor and resistor from the motor. I can now  run Smokey Joe with the new decoder at a realistic speed and not like a scalextric car. 

On 21/02/2021 at 10:28, Richard Croft said:

Thats my thoughts too, I've fitted quite a few int he past and the failure rates are so much higher than with Loksound decoders.

Agreed the shop said there was a 3% failure rate and I assumed they meant just TTS. They are not tested by the store before sending to customers as the packs are sealed unlike loksound which are tested (like the Railcar sound you sent me Richard). 

Having purchased  a TTS decoder this week for another loco and returned it as the sound didn't work I've decided not too go down this line. I would fit a Howes or similar sound decoder as I've never had a problem with them. 

11 hours ago, mkrob said:

Its my belief that TTS decoders are susceptible to ESD like a lot of electronic circuit components with integrated circuits. It may be what happened to yours. It seems a matter of luck when fitting TTS decoders that may or may not work properly after fitting. As a precaution,it's best to wear a ESD strap when handling any dcc decoder,especially an expensive sound decoder. Its just my opinion and many people may disagree!     

I've not had a problem previously with decoders though they have been top end sound decoders and tested . I think I will steer clear of TTS in future unless factory fitted. 

1 hour ago, mkrob said:

Would doing something like this work for you. I did something similar to this with my Q6 TTS installation but put the decoder where they put the small cube speaker, after making a slot in the plastic slope under the coal load.

https://www.youchoos.co.uk/Index-Resource.php?L1=Guides&Item=OO-J15

I had looked at that previously. As it's a new loco I didn't particularly want to modify the tender but I think that would be my only option as there isn't much space. It does seem strange that Hornby provide the space for the obligatory speaker and no room for the decoder. Ironically I had to return my TTS decoder today as on testing the sound didn't work though the loco was running. I've asked for a replacement dcc decoder instead of a sound decoder. 

I'm struggling fitting TTS in the tender of the J15. The speaker fits great in the designated space underneath the weight on the floor. However the decoder body is where I'm struggling to fit inside the tender. Doesn't appear to be enough space. Anyone had experience of fitting a TTS in a J15 or a work around. One option is to possibly fit a smaller speaker and have the decoder  where the speaker should go, but not sure. 

I've lost the small single screw that secures the chassis to the body of the DMU. After going over the carpet with a magnet I've had no success. If anyone has a spare or know of a supplier it would be great. 

19 hours ago, Richard Croft said:

It'll help on other locos you have too because its common practice to limit the speed 

I think it may also be perspective issue. I run my locos on an oval of Kato track rather than a model layout. On the oval track locos possibly look slower running than at the same speed on a layout, if that makes sense. 

12 minutes ago, Richard Croft said:

It'll help on other locos you have too because its common practice to limit the speed 

Thanks, I had more of a problem with my Bachmann Class 43 and Dapol 52 which  were running slowly. I've sorted the class 43  by changing  CV2-2, CV5-255, CV53 - 140, CV54-10, CV55-10. Dapol 52 better at CV5-255.

Thanks Richard, the Express Parcels Railcar speed is fine.  

33 minutes ago, Pierre Le Brun said:

No I haven't, will take a look at the manual. 

Autotuned using cv54. Will need to check on track. 

1 hour ago, GoingUnderground said:

Have you used the "autotune" function to set the Back EMF CVs, section 11.1.4 "Automatic Calibration of the Motor" in the LokSound manual?

No I haven't, will take a look at the manual.