TimP

I wonder if any of the bright minds on here can help with a Shapeways cost a fortune problem!! - a couple of years ago I designed some 60s concrete platform lamp-posts as I couldn't find anything that matched what I was trying to model (Banbury) - the 3D print that I did needed to allow for micro led(s) fitting in the top - so after some very kind help from someone on here I came up with this... I have two separate prints one for the majority of the lamp and one for the tops to be fitted after leds have been installed. I printed the base in smooth fine detailed plastic and the tops in white natural plastic - I did a batch of 6 at a go as a test...The total cost was $18 - now I am ready to actually build the platforms two years later and I find that total cost is now $53 + shipping and that the white natural plastic is no longer available - two questions:- 1. What is the best replacement material for white natural plastic - any ideas 2. Any suggestions on some value engineering to reduce unit costs as I need 21 lamps (plus some spares) which will be rather more than budget - at $200 plus shipping Eeeek... I have no idea if scrunching them up more or printing more in one print would help - does anyone know what the parameters to play with are?

Really keen to know if the cameo 4 is any good at cutting thicker styrene - anyone tried yet?

Ah sorry not making myself clear, rotary cutter interest for wife's quilting not me particularly - I would be more interested in deep cut blade for styrene

Thanks Buhar and ISW, yes I had read the software "limitations" on the CriCut machines, I do have a good internet connections (60Mb/s albeit on a radio link that goes across 3Km of sea firth! before it gets to a fibre) and I do have sitting on my shelf a recent copy of turbocad which I keep meaning to learn!! But I am guessing having read things here that even that may not be as powerful as using the Silhouette software in controlling the cutting at least. The Maker looks like it may be better for my SWMBOs extensive crafting/quilting activity with it's rotary tool cutter but the thing that interests me is the cutting force spec - They claim it has 4Kg of cutting force vs 350g(ish) for the explore air 2 / cameo 3, e.g. https://www.theidearoom.net/cricut-maker-review/ I can't find anyone anywhere who has tried it with styrene except one reference on reddit who says it is good but no thickness is mentioned. I fwas hoping someone on RMWeb would have tried! Thanks again Tim

Thinking about buying a first cutter - has anyone got any experience with the CRICUT maker which seems to have a much higher - 10x - the outing force of the cameo 3 or CRICUT explore air? So might do styrene better?

Yes I have read through the thread on the fuse thing - hmmm seems like a bit of a gotcha, but as you say may well have been what has saved me - I think I'll wait for Kernow to say something before splashing out on a YouChoos / Zimo decoder. In the meantime anyone fitting Kadees? I am not mad keen on the Dapol couplings as they have horrible droop - I am not sure even a shim will do.

well thanks all for your helpful advice - seems like it has survived. I obviously missed the lecture on coreless motors: but having re-read all of the blurb that came with the loco I can't see anything that warns the average idiot (me) that they shouldn't do this.

Thanks Baby D. Off to try fitting a decoder

oh god yes...that's exactly what i have done

Just received D603 put it on track prior to fitting decoder - lights come on briefly then nothing - very time i put it on the track the same result brief lights and brief sound from motor then nothing. Running Digitrax system with loco 00 selected - am i being thick / has anyone else seen this? just asking before I send it back. Many Thanks

Hi - I got a dozen of them last year but had to order them from the states - I think I got them from Ebay currently building a control panel for them and the associated ground signalling - so haven't actually got around to fitting them yet! I did do a test with one and they are OK I guess not perfect by any means - but a damn site easier to fit and lower power than the Kadee electromagnets

I see that the update for Emblaser 2 production on their website support thread has said that they have changed consultants for CE approval, (old ones moving too slowly), no new dates or other info - so I guess it's still going to be a fair wait before the EU ones get shipped. I suppose if you want to look at the positives - at least Darkly will have cleared all the US backlog by the time they get CE so they will be able to devote most of their production to it, and they should have removed most of the wrinkles from product and production! Tim

Thanks John that helps to clear it up in my mind

Hi John, Thanks for your experience on coaches with Keen links and Kadee - I am struggling to understand what you mean by "You just need to fit the bogies with suitable guides to centre the links as they don't have springs to do it." any chance of a photo or a longer explanation for bears of little brain like myself. Thanks Tim

Thanks Martin, Thats a helpful thread. TimP

I have been lurking here for a while - and as a result of reading what you are all up to I was thinking of ordering an Emblaser 2 - does anyone know what the red tape is that is holding up UK import? or where I can get more info on the issue? Thanks Tim

Ah i see many thanks Gary yes my eyes letting me down - higher quality files would be lovely. so then there is almost a foot different in platform heights - which would be a cant angle of a little over 2.5 degrees - which fits with my (crude) measurement. Tim

Gary those look wonderfully useful, thanks - I am struggling to read/understand the numbers on the section drawing though - are the numbers like 300.04 something like height above see level in feet? but that doesn't make any sense as e.g. what looks like the rail height on platform 2 (old numbering) seems to be 296.70 yet the rail height on plat 1 is given as 296.76 but shown lower - I am sure I am being stupid but a hint would be great! Ian - my not very good blog is here http://www.pearsonsweb.com/Modelling/Modelling-OMWB.shtml I will perhaps start a banbury in OO thread so I don't hijack yours! TimP

Hi Ian, I enjoyed talking to you at Warley last week thanks for your time - it was also great to see the layout in real life. You mentioned to me that platform 2 is 6" higher than platform 3 - I have been thinking about that and doing some math on the cant angles for my own layout. Last monday I measured the cant angle while sitting on a crowded rush hour train (to the confusion of my fellow passengers) - specifically when sitting in the station i got a 3 degree cant angle (calibrated to zero resting on table on clearly level track) - here is the iPhone screen - now if there is a six inch height difference and the gap between the platform edges is about 260 inches (which is what i get as a measurement) then the maths seems to be this - so i am guessing the cross section between the two platforms looks more like this - This seems to tie up with the photos better - do you have a guess? (I am just at a critical phase on track laying in the station!) also do you think all the platforms/tracks to the west of the main lines are 6 inches higher through the station? I posted here rather than messaged you incase of interest to others (unlikely!)

Thanks aac - its def a pickup problem not a cv problem - and i will try a quick clean as you suggest.

Mauretania arrived today - stutters and judders at slow speed and sound cuts out over track that other locos manage fine - think this one is going back *sad face* Tim

Had the loose red wire, had problems with internal lighting, had the handrails fly off, found it impossible to get body apart without slight damage to doors, loved the model but wasnt going to mess around with another one til they sort it out - went back for a refund - and was told I wasnt the only one. I do think ability to take apart and put back together without damage for a DCC model should be a basic requirement and I wish the mag reviewers would give the manufacturers a tougher time on it.

If its of use to anyone here are some pictures of disassembly - TimP http://www.pearsonsweb.com/Modelling/item04032012.shtml

A cautionary tale I have done about 30 decoder installs now - this one is not particularly easy - you have to prise the doors out to allow the model to come apart in itself this is really hard to do without marking the model but before you do that don't forget to disconnect the bottom end of the handrails - not something mentioned in the instructions - if you dont they will fly across the room never to be found again. then fitting the decoder there is a real mess of tiny thin wires connecting the decoder mounting board - in getting the dummy decoder board out i guess i must have put too much strain on one of the tiny wires which came away from the roof - this despite being really careful! the tiny wires disappear into the metal roof moulding with no apparent access so no way to repair - argh - and have just been told by helpful and understanding guy at hattons that there are no more dark green speed whisker ones available - double argh! In short be really careful when decoder fitting.

Good as ever Ian - TimP p.s. must ask you about the superelevation on the main lines through the station sometime