Down_Under

I’m thinking half janus. I’m intrigued to see if a true half janus can be made. If so I’ve had Similar thoughts. Following with interest. A real half Janus

I'm looking forward to what you end up doing / how you transform the Janus / Class 02 combo. J

What’s the magic code word? Put an order in in January, couple of emails and traded a U.K. postal address and nothing. Did a phone call make a difference? J (Perth, Western Australia)

Well that makes sense, kingdom of fife and all. I hadn’t made that connection before. All this while I was thinking they are kinda incorrect, but turns out they are correct!

Hi everyone, Does anyone have the following set of Alan Gibson wheels surplus to requirements? 4 x G4874V - 18 spoke - 6’2” diameter 1 x 4838 - 12 spoke - 3’2” diameter 1 x 4844 - 10 spoke - 3’8” diameter I’m in the process of re-wheeling a pro-scale P2 from 00 (under scale Romford) to EM that I’m working on. I’m struggling to get any posted overseas so wondered if anyone had a set surplus to requirements? If you do please PM and we can chat about cost / postage etc Cheers, J

Just to confirm, the Bauxite coloured ones would be correct for 1976 until rail freight livery was introduced?

One just landed in Aus. Thank you muchly Keith and the team. now who is gonna be the first to convert to EM or P4?

I wonder if the Andrew Barclay was based on one of the ‘Fife Specials’ which had a 7ft WB rather than the 6ft that is associated with the majority of the 14” and 16” class 16” Fife special - note longer wheelbase and longer tank than “normal” [borrowed from https://preservedbritishsteamlocomotives.com/andrew-barclay-works-no-2260-ncb-no-23-0-4-0st/ ] [https://preservedbritishsteamlocomotives.com/works-no-2261-fife-flyer-no-6-0-4-0st/]

Considering last week it was sold in on Hornby website and now you can order it from the Hornby website, I’d say there is a fair bit of pullback from Hornby. It sucks as shipping goes from cost at Hattons (20 quid) to 50 quid with Hornby for the same item. Utter piss take if you ask me.

Just had my Hush-Hush cancelled. Kinda annoying now. First a P2 now the hush-hush. Email states they can’t acquire the stock What a pain in the ass. Come on Hornby up ya game!

Thanks for keeping us all updated Mike and sharing your 'tips of the trade'. Helps muchly. AG seems under the pump at the moment. I enquired a few weeks back, but he is not taking any international orders at the moment. Lucky can forward stuff via a UK address, but it seems I'm going to have to wait a while. J

G'day Accurascale - A small request - would it be possible to add the years that the loco's wore the livery to the description on the interweb? I know someone posted it up a while back, but it would be handy quick reference. Cheers James

Top notch stuff RT! I've sent you an email with a pre-order for these! Cheers James

I got the email also I forming new that "Earl Marischal" (original bodystyle) was now cancelled. Bit of a bummer, but oh well. Is what it is.

G’day Hayfield, RE mounting screws: The 6v 1mm shaft 10/20 (C type) motors use the same size mounting screws as the equivalent Mashima (M1.4 x 2) the 12v 1.5mm shaft version (B type - stubby little shaft) use a 10BA screw (weird right?!) I used some Romford crankpins until some 10BA turned up. I’m in the process of building one of the 12v ones into a 165DE to see if I can sleeve this correctly, so far so good. I’m in the process of building one of the 6v ones into a EM jinty to run on a friends large continuous run EM layout (35ft long). That should be a pretty good test. Hope to have this one running my month end. James

Brand new A4 on a coal train? Check out this page about a 1/8th of the way down (10 pictures) http://www.tracksthroughgrantham.uk/recording-the-railway/grantham-railway-galleries/highdyke-to-westborough-in-fifty-pictures/

Hi 97xx I use a piece of 0.8 or 1mm rod bent in a slight ‘Z’ shape that centres the box and acts as a torque rod/link. Hope the photos make that clear

Thanks Barclay, Do you know how these compare with the smaller ones ? Got a couple of those with some Agenoria Kits recently. anyone tried this? Bit more ££ but possibly been spec’d for model railways? https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/154240492242?rt=nc&_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20161006002618%26meid%3Dda8998e7833c4bd3a273f467afa8c6e0%26pid%3D100694%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D27%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D283315414483%26itm%3D154240492242%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2386202%26algv%3DDefaultOrganic J

Thanks for keeping us all updated RT! Looking forward to these dump cars J

I’m happy to attempt a bench test of some sort to get some useful numbers/standardised data for comparing motors. Just what sort of bench test/haulage test is required? Is there a standard? Easy to measure?

You haven’t missed anything, they are sold as 3-6v motors. I haven’t run one up to 12v yet, only briefly to 6v or so. In my experience I didn’t need to run them at full noise as it where for the shunter I used to trial it on. 1-3v was sufficient even at 54:1 reduction to be realistic. I’ve used inline resistors to drop the voltage in mini (6mm x 10mm for axle hung units ) 3v - 6v cordless motors to make sure they don’t burn out. I’m not so familiar with diodes, but I understand they can be used to perform a simIlar function to drop voltage if needed. Coupled to a 50 to 80:1 gearbox in a shunter I’d doubt you’d ever exceed 6v J edit - voltage was done under DC conditions only. Yet to play with these under DCC

I had a hunt in my brass tube box and found the closest 1.5mm OD thin wall tube. I found in reality these varied from 1.62 to 1.48mm with internal varying from 0.8 to 1.1mm. I went as close as I could get and reamed the internal diameter back to 1mm. A touch of loctite secured the worm on the shaft as I could not quite get a interference fit

correct - I know they make 2mm and 1.5mm no sure on 1mm.

Same, I’m thinking of sleeving to 2mm to extend the shaft. The high level boxes do come with extended shaft support so this is an option too

I used the pliers to shift it enough to get a proper puller in behind it, making sure that I didn’t simply try and pull it off and damage the motor.