Doc Robin

I've put 3 pin female XLR sockets on my board for the AC source, using pins 1 and 2 for ease of soldering - thanks raymw. I'll take a feed off this for the CDU - point motors.

Robin

Many thanks, that gives me lots of choices - and I'll keep off banana sockets for auxillary AC!

Robin

I'm planning on using solenoid point motors so will need a 16V AC supply, and was planning on electrically connecting the baseboards together so one power supply worked a number of boards. Does anyone have experience of a different connector type, or shall I just use banana sockets at an edge of the boards (to keep them away from the track power sockets which are more central) and longer jumper cables in case the sockets on one board are on the opposite side to the next?

Thanks

Robin

That's a great document Steve-e, but more than is needed for a meeting organiser. Just saying it's an RMWeb OO compatible module negates the need for describing the standards, or just put a link to them. Similarly we all know what the standard wiring should be.

As cromptonut says the dimensions, track plan and control systems are the variables we need to know.

I would also describe the stock separately.

That said, I've started something very similar, so well done to you. Just wish I had your skills at scenery!

Robin

I thought i was using medium grey- until I ran out part way through and realised that I'd used something entirely different, and am now trying to blend them together

Robin

Well, I started reading through this thread, but as with all 'discussions' of this nature, there are those who want to run mainline/express trains & there are those who want to run pickup goods trains.

 

I don't think there can be a compromise between the two. As most of the halls that will be hired will be relatively small, the modules would be best suited as branchline.

 

I can hear all the big loco owners groaning, but if you are up for modular meets, it is best to go with what the majority of people could accomodate.

Most, if not the biggest number of modellers have no space to run long trains, so will have suitable stock from the start.

The most commonly fitted type of coupling is the tension lock, so this should be the standard adopted; this will let anybody join in.

I'm strongly in the DC camp for home operation, but can see the obvious advantage of using DCC for a modular layout.

 

Width wise, I would suggest 15" for branchline modules, & a minimum length of 3ft; (this, again, would be more inclusive to the most people).

To me this misses the point of a modular meet. Whilst most halls may be small, they'll be much larger than most peoples houses, so those "plain" modules betweeen the stations / yards will allow those who want to run big locos or modern freight trains to do so, whereas they don't have the space at home.

I've investigated my local social club - 200 square metres of space for rent, so much bigger than home, even if the domestic authorities allowed me to use all of it!

Just out of interest, why the oddly shaped board interface? No need for non-modular track joints to be at 90deg?

Never having built any modules before, let alone done any soldering to copperclad sleepers or brass nails, I thought my chances of keeping the rails aligned and in gauge might be better like that!

You'll have to forgive my AnyRail skills, but this seems to work as a double track Y using 2 boards of less than 18 by 48. I'd make the frames underneath square to allow the use of alignment dowels. The inner join is roughly 90 degrees, but the outer is 45 degrees with 18 inch ends. With hindsight I'd smooth off the 90 degre corners as well to make it look a bit smoother

I was planning on 3mm or 1/8th balsa or cork track bed, depending on what's available.

Robin