H2Eric

9 minutes ago, rembrow said:

On my BR late crest 'St Peter's School' I started to fit the nameplates yesterday. Had to modify them as Bachmann don't supply any support to enable attachment to the running plate. Being etched  they are too thin to get a reliable attachment at the base. I fitted a thin square section of plasticard to the base reverse side of the nameplate, about 3mm in from each end, so it can't be seen. This was painted satin black and the new plasticard base was fitted to the running plate with glue n glaze.

Thanks for the tip as I was wondering how to fit the name plates.

43 minutes ago, cctransuk said:

 

Nope - Hermes are by far the most efficient and caring courier in this area.

 

 

Well, lucky you. In my experience Hermes are the worst of all. Their Customer Services are abysmal. they are deliberately obstructive and its impossible to speak to a fellow human being.

Recently I discovered that the speedo drive on my Lord Nelson (R3603TTS) was detached from the body and as soon as I touched the speedo snapped in half. Hornby provided a replacement free of charge, but it was defective, i.e. bent the wrong way. I returned the model to Hornby along with the defective speedo drive for repair. When it came back it was obvious that the defective speedo drive had been fitted along with a note that it was 'tested OK'. Really! The reason the speedo snapped in the first place is obvious as the end of the return crank is not over the center of the driving wheel axel which results in the 'cable' being bent back and forth with each revolution until it gives up and snaps. The model was returned to Hornby again for repair. Its better now, but not perfect, so how long it will last is anyone's guess. My layout is an engine shed scene so locos do not get a great deal of use, so I would image the answer is not very long. 

This scenario made me look at other Hornby steam locos in  my collection that are fitted with speedo drives. The speedo cable on Duke of Gloucester (R3236) has also snapped. That on Princess Arthur of Connaught (R2447) is significantly bent and looks to be on the point of breaking. 

Other models I’ve found where the end of the return crank is not centered over the axel include Flying Scotsman (R3202) and Coronation class (R3241, R3509TTS, R3856), which results in the cable bending, some more than others. Some of these speedo drives may survive being constantly bent back and forth others may not.

There is obviously a theme here (design fault) which certainly needs to be rectified by Hornby for all future models, which I hope they will act upon.

Meanwhile has anyone else had the same problems. Time to go and check perhaps.

On 11/03/2021 at 09:43, D9001 said:

Very disappointed to have received an email from a well known Liverpool based retailer this morning saying that my money has been refunded for my Sun Castle because they are sold out; I must have been one of the first to order with them, immediately following the announcement of the Hornby A2/3 so how can they be sold out of it?  I have emailed back my disappointment but Has anyone else received such an email? 

Me Too. This is the third cancellation of my pre-orders in a month. Like you I was quick off the mark following the announcement so I fail to understand why I've been singled out for special treatment. The email refers to a "technical issue" with their system, which I presume means that someone screwed up. This Liverpool "stack 'em high and flog 'em cheap" emporium won't get the chance to cancel my other two pre-orders as I will cancel them first. Enough is enough.

I finally got my BR black version, spiffing model! Just one thing, on each side of the chimney there are what appear to be two hooks, unfortunately both pinged off in next to no time. Has anyone else suffered the same?

The problems with promotion codes and the Ticket Factory have indeed been going on for years and neither party has done anything about it. These problems should not happen and there is no excuse. Its time for Warners Group to have a rethink starting by giving the Ticket Factory the big E

22 hours ago, bourneagain said:

Sorry, if I`m mistaken, but the way that you have described the method you brought your ticket was direct from the Ticket Factory web site.

If this is correct, then can I suggest that the next time you go through the British Railway Modelling web site, which will in a couple of menu steps take you through to their Show page.

If you book your ticket from that site, it will take you to the Ticket Factory wed page in a slightly different format, where the promo box is clearly shown above the full price ticket prices.

After you have entered the promo code, you then get taken to the discounted ticket price web page.

Should you encounter any further problems then best to send an email to exhibit@warnersgroup.co.uk who will be able to assist you.

Hope this helps and enjoy the show.

At the top of this thread there is a box 'Click here to purchase advanced tickets', that is how I tried to obtain a ticket with subscriber discount, which turns out as described above. I also tried the BRM web site and got absolutely nowhere.

22 hours ago, bourneagain said:

2 questions- Did you enter the promo code P19 prefixed your subs number into the promo box before starting the ordering process?

And you are a hard copy subscriber, as digital subscribers don`t get the subscriber discount?   

 Yes,  I entered the promotion code as specified with the prefix P19 and I am a hard copy subscriber.

This is not the first time that the Ticket Factory has failed to deliver the discount as they did it to me last year as well. The instructions on the web site state that the promotion code should be entered on the next page. Wrong! They is no opportunity to enter such on any of the pages apart from the very first one, which obviously doesn't work.

Why is it that every year it is such a faff trying to get a ticket with a subscriber discount? Entering the required information into the promotion box simply does not work. Having gone through the whole process including entering my subscriber details in the correct format the Ticket Factory took nine pounds off me instead of eight. Not impressed !

Latest news from Hattons says delivery on or after 18th August 2015

Eric

Hello Keith

Thanks for posting the pictures, which give food for thought. The number may well fit between the lamp bracket and the smoke box dart

Eric

Hi Gary

Thanks for the kind words. Regarding the position of the smoke box number plate I deliberated for quite some time over its position and considered the top strap on the smoke box as an option, but as most engines in the 12 inches to the foot scale had the number fairly high up I chose the option you see in the pictures. Since the first post I have added a screw link coupling to the front buffer beam and the handrail on the inside of the right hand smoke deflector. The handrail may require a second attempt as the enlarged photo below doesn't really do it any favours. Looks OK at normal size though. 

Eric

If Hornby decide to produce the streamlined version of the P2 you can guess what will happen.

Eric

Hello Lee

Thanks for the positive feedback and to Dan and Keith also.

When the P2 first came out I had the idea of a 'what if' and decided to go down the BR Brunswick green path although others on the forum beat me to it.

I started with a common or garden (railroad) version.

I replaced the tender with a corridor type from a Hornby A4. Theory being that these locomotives should perhaps have been used on the non-stop London - Edinburgh trains. However, the drawbar on the Hornby A4 is attached to the loco and that on the P2 is attached to the tender. Fortunately the drawbar pin on the P2 is a 2mm screw so a replacement was relatively easy to make from a strip of brass, although not to the same length as either from the A4 or the original P2. It took several attempts to get the spacing correct.

I then removed the moulded on handrails from the cab sides. I suspect that if using a scapel to do this the chances of taking a gouge out of the cab side is fairly high so I used a small fine file and some premium sanding sticks, which I think came from Eileen's Emporium. The sanding sticks also removed the cab side numbers as well in the process, bonus!

I also removed the beading from around the rear of the cab sides and then partly filled in the cut out to match that on the A4 tender. I believe this was an early modification on the original (12 inches to the foot scale) P2 to combat drafts that the crews complained of. I used some 40 thou / 1mm thick plasticard, which I glued in place. I made these fillets oversize so that I could file to shape once the glue had set. I used good old Humbrol model filler to fill any slight gap followed by much smoothing with a fine sanding stick. This later process took several attempts to get an acceptable finish with no obvious join.

The next task was to drill the holes for the handrail knobs and attach the wire (Alan Gibson products - small handrail knobs and 0.45mm wire.).

I then turned my attention to the front end. That moulded on smoke box dart just had to go and was replaced by a turned brass item.

I was however tempted to leave the moulded on hand rail alone as its not easy to get at, but after much thought it just had to go. I used a scapel initially to remove as much as I dare and then finished off with a sanding stick whittled down to get into the confined space. The moulded on lamp bracket got the same treatment as well. Small handrail knobs and wire were duly applied.

I made a replacement lamp bracket out of a piece of 1mm diameter copper wire, hammered at one end to flatten it and then bent and filed to shape. Drill hole in smoke box and attach with glue. Sounds simple, but the lamp bracket is very tiny and when attempting to fix in place with tweezers it duly pinged across the room never to be seen again. I think I got it in place on the third attempt.

You could if you so wish replace the plastic whistle with a turned brass item, but I chose to leave the original in place.

That concludes the modifications

Next job was a full repaint. Not processing an airbrush and not wishing to spoil the plot with a brush I called the professional in. Parcel up the model and send off to Steve Johnson (Grimy Times) for a full repaint including the tender in BR Brunswick green complete with lining, etched nameplates, works plates and BR late crest. Although the tender was in excellent condition (an ebay find) I had it repainted in order to get an exact colour match with the engine. Steve also applied the weathering.

Cheers

Eric

Small tank engines in 00 for me please, especially a LNWR 0-6-2 Coal Tank

I got my Beyer-Garratt yesterday, BR version 47996. Superb model and runs really well. As mention by others the 'heavy' weathering needs some attention, but can be done to your own required standard. Just one thing though, for a BR version it shouldn't have bogie brakes should it?

Eric