GrahamB

1 hour ago, Nigelcliffe said:

So, what's the reply to the next forum member who asks for help on this topic ? 

 

Or the reply to GrahamB when stuck on something else ?   Tough, find out for yourself ?    Forums work when people share how to do things.

 

 

 

Make your mind up.

 

 

 

 

- Nigel

OK. Last post. Had I obtained agreement to post I would have checked and noted the steps. They didn't so I didn't.

I agree it's not a trade secret but I was asked not to.

The reason being that I was asked a number of additional questions (Too many for me to remember) and it seems that there were different options depending upon my answers. Had the fix not worked I would have needed to send the unit to Gaugemaster for a reset.

I think it is important to note that they called me back within an hour of my e-mail to them and there was no charge. It involved a number of steps which I didn't write down. No-one is going to thank me if I document it here incorrectly and it makes matters worse.

Sorry.

Less than one hour later and it's fixed  

Gaugemaster called me back and talked me through the process.

I did offer to post the fix here but they have asked me not to as it's not a guaranteed fix and a little bit of knowledge can be a dangerous thing, which I understand.

I have written the process down for future reference though.

If nothing else, it's an excellent demonstration of Gaugemaster's excellent customer service.

All offers of help are always appreciated. I've e-mailed Gaugemaster.

Thanks but I've tried both of those to no avail. I suspect I didn't complete the setup process and I've confused it.

Last night I was trying to take some photos of the layout with my daughter and wasn't paying attention to what buttons I was pressing. One of my locos then stopped responding.

It seems that somehow I pressed the "consist" button and now can't clear it. Not that I think it helps, the loco address is 30.

When I select that address "Cons" appears in the top left hand side of the display and the loco refuses to do anything.
Placing the loco on my test track and using my SPROG, the loco works fine.
I have checked CV19 and that is set to zero.
If I change the loco address using my Sprog and then call up that loco using the new address on the Advance controller, the loco works fine.
This tells me that the problem sits with the controller (I think)
I have followed the instructions to clear a universal or "old style" consist.
I have followed the instructions to clear a "advanced" consist using all the addresses I have for my other locos to no avail.
Turning the unit off and on does not help.

What I think I have done is to set up (Probably incorrectly) a consist with the address of 30. Sadly it just won't clear.

Any ideas please?

Yesterday I received an e-mail and I'm surprised that there has been no mention here. The e-mail read;

Good afternoon,

Earlier this week we announced that we have had to cancel this weekend’s (21-22 March, 2020) London Festival of Railway Modelling at Alexandra Palace. We pride ourselves on delivering outstanding events to the hobby and this decision was not reached lightly, but we feel it’s the right one for the health and safety of all involved. Naturally, we are all very disappointed. However, we have been working with the venue and are pleased to announce that the London Festival of Railway Modelling will now take place on 22-23 August, 2020 at Alexandra Palace!

As part of your Show Subscription Offer you were due to receive a free ticket to this weekend’s show. Therefore, we would like to offer you the following alternatives:

Option 1 – Free ticket to the re-arranged London Festival of Railway Modelling on 22-23 August, 2020

Option 2 – Free ticket to The National Festival of Railway Modelling in Peterborough on 5_6 December, 2020 or The Festival of British Railway Modelling in Doncaster on 13-14 February, 2021

Option 3 – We cancel your free ticket but add two additional issues of BRM to your subscription free of charge

When you have decided which option you would like to take out, please contact the subscriptions team on XXXXXXX.

Kind regards,

I have phoned up and made my choice.

Here's a link for those interested.

http://www.ukmodelshops.co.uk/events/16152-TonbridgeModelRailwayClubExhibition 

I don't know if this will help but it may get the conversation going.

Firstly, I have to thank CR Signals for their excellent service. I ordered mine last Thursday lunchtime and they arrived Friday morning! That also (hopefully) explains my limited experience with them. Without knowing where you signals will be placed it's a little difficult to give exact advice but here's what I have done for my Minories inspired layout.

The position light shunt signals only need a single pole changeover switch. The pivot light is permanently illuminated and allows you to toggle between the white and red. I found the light far too bright so I've added a further 10k ohm resistor which seems to make it look better although I'll have to check it against the layout lighting. The three aspect signals and their route indicators are fine as they are.

For the three aspect signals (I have four), I purchased a four pole changeover switch. That allows me to limit all of the signals to green or yellow. I've then used a single pole changeover switch to switch from red to whatever the yellow/green switch is set for. As I will only have (Hopefully) one train on the move at a time this suits me fine and allows me to step the signal up from yellow to green should I wish to simulate a further section becoming clear.

For the route indication, I used a car relay. In my case my home signal has three potential routes. 

Red is fed via the "normal" contact of the relay.

The switches activate the relay rather than the signal.

Where a route indication is required, the switch for that route is a double pole changeover. The second pole provides power to the route indicator.

The "switched" contact on the relay provides power to one of the four pole switch contacts mentioned above. That provides the required yellow/green aspect.

Please don't ask for a wiring diagram. I'm hopeless at doing them on a computer. Hope the above helps a little

Well done. See you Thursday hopefully.

Hi Graham,

 

The power to the CDU was (we believe it deceased on the Sunday afternoon at Tenterden ) directly from a seperate transformer. There was also some issues with the motors not firing all the way over. The Fulgrex motors run off of 12v DC and we already have the connections under the board for these from the ones in the fiddleyards. As to the other work there are only 3 areas that can be interlocked, and one of them already is (and with the protecting signal). The main work is going to be done by Chris B from the club (well he is a signalling engineer) and I am more of a labourer this time.

 

Colin

Hmmmm.

I won't be down tomorrow but perhaps another solution would be to tone down the power of the throw. What's the input voltage to the CDU?

Interlocking of points? Route setting? So you are transferring to S&T?

There's just no keeping you out of the underside of a layout Colin, is there?

Are you sure you're not a frustrated S&T engineer?

Anyway, looks quite simple to me.

His problem will be at next years exhibition Bill, as he can now be put on kitchen duties, but he did serve a purpose yesterday, thanks Graham. B)

 

Colin

Just to prove I have my uses, not only did I say hello today but I also maintained service by use of a carefully placed crocodile clip

Colin,

 

Can't you control your team?

 

Bill

A quick reminder that we will be playing with Avon Junction at the Homewood exhibition in Tenterden this weekend (hopefully my back will hold out ), anyone going please say hello.

 

Colin

I've had electric solar panels for two years now. They are on a south facing roof with just seven panels.

The FIT payment means I'm getting just over 10% tax free return on my investment. As the FIT goes up by RPI each year that will increase over the 25 year period but the return also depends upon the weather being bright.

Fit them and, apart from reading the meter once a quarter, forget them.

I wish he'd do some GWR models or does anyone have any experience of modifications?