Devo63

I have a copy of the drawing in my collection. I'll scan it and send it via PM sometime in the next 24 hours (it's just before midnight here). Dave R.

I have built a few Westdale kits over the years and find they require a lot more work to finish successfully than some of their contemporaries such as BSL. I have only one Westdale kit left to build in my collection for a K38 Ocean Mails van (I also have a BSL K38 which I intend to build at the same time for comparison). I have always found the ends of these kits hard to fit and the last couple that I completed I added some internal strips at the ends to provide a more secure attachment for the end pressings. As the body has the sole bars as part of the pressing it is very difficult to insert an interior if both ends are attached. I always glazed the windows and inserted the floor with any compartment/seats first before attaching the ends. I have also found it harder to scribe any door or panel lines on these models compared to the BSL kits but it can be done. The body pressings are of their time in the history of model making. One advantage of the range was the preformed sides and roof which made it easier to assemble. The downside was the lack of detail on them due to the forming process which would explain the lack of cut outs and recessed guards door. The door could be carefully cut out and replaced by a piece of plastic or brass shaped to fit.

From the window arrangement the kits appear to be either E140's or E145's bow enders. The compartments in these were 4 x 3rd, 1 x 1st, 1 x 3rd. The van end had a pair of luggage door and a guards door each side with a window between the guard comp. and the last 3rd comp on the left hand (?) side. E140 was fitted with 7' plate bogies while the E145 had 9' type. The door and grab handles on both types were recessed in small square cut outs in the bodysides. As Jason mentioned the guards door is slightly recessed in the prototypes. Dave R.

The Beyer Peacock 0-6-0 is definitely on my wanted list. Just need sufficient warning to save up for one.

This is one loco I've always wanted to model. My father took a photo of No. 784 at Barry in 1948. https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/108032-rtr-0-6-0-chassis-selection/&tab=comments#comment-2194972

I found this in my old Railway Modeller collection from Volume 1, No. 3 dated Feb-Mar 1950. Dave R.

I had both of the Airfix 1/72 scale Whirlwind models in the past. The original tooling dated back to 1958 and was in production until around about the mid 1970's. A complete new tool was created in 1978 which was a great improvement on the original model. Dave R.

After six and a half years delay (mainly due to various health issues) I've finally resumed work on this model. As the interior is quite visible I'm planning to populate the coach with a number of passengers and a few catering staff. The publicity photos show a pale jacket with dark lapels and cuffs and dark trousers. I assume the jackets are cream as there is a contrast between them and the (white?) shirt colour. Does anyone happen to know what colour the trim on these were? Also what is the difference between the jacket styles. One has just the collar in a dark finish and the other has the full lapels. Is it part of a ranking system in the catering department? One final question - does anybody know the curtain colours and pattern used in the H55 when new?

PM sent with pic. Dave R.

The D98 was built in two lots in 1927/8 (Lots 1377 &1389) and were fitted with the 7' single bolster bogies typical of the time. Dave R. Edit - Ms P beat me to it!

In the Gibson chassis range there is: LM1-245 GWR Duke 4-4-0. This should be suitable for the Bulldog as well as the Dukes and later Earls. Dave R.

Just going through the boxes and found another Duke kit partially converted to model the earlier, narrow, cab. This has the later chassis and wheels and the final type of K's motor. The motor is one of the 5 pole types whereas most of the later motors I have are 3 pole. I've never used one of these and might experiment with using the kit parts to see how it runs. I think I better pull my finger out and make an effort to get most of these locos up and running again. I think having nine of these 4-4-0's on the layout would look quite good. Dave R.

I have one of these curved frame Bulldogs which I picked up at a show about twenty plus years ago. I had it running as 3317 'Somerset' but it is now awaiting new wheels, gears and motor and possible renaming to 3307 'Exmoor'. The original underpinnings were transferred to my model of 'Tre Pol and Pen' but they now also require renewal. I always thought that the model was a clever conversion combining the Duke frames and footplate with Bulldog boiler and other fittings in a reverse of the Earl conversions carried out by the real railway. It was interesting to find out that the parts could be purchased direct from K's. Closer inspection of my the bodyshell does not show any obvious signs of any previous cut and shut. I have seven small wheeled 4-4-0 models (4 Bulldogs, 2 Dukes and 3265) but only three working chassis between them. One of the Bulldogs, 3345 'Smeaton', is either a scratch or kit built model dating back to the 1960's (if not earlier) and was fitted with a Romford Terrier motor which has since been replaced. This leaves just two Keyser chassis for the six locomotives. Both of them are the earlier keyhole type fitted with the old Mark 1 motor and preassembled driving wheels. I've had them running for well over thirty years and they have never missed a beat. On the subject of the Mark 1 motors, can anyone advise of suitable replacement brushes for this type? Some of my older models must be wearing them a bit thin by now. Edit: I just found that I have five Bulldogs! 3373 'Sir William Henry" was hiding in the back of the cupboard. It is working order and has the same type of early chassis. Dave R

Hi Mike. That luggage box is looking great in model form. I've been following your BG threads with great interest and been impressed with your methods of arranging the printing as a set of parts as opposed to trying to print in one piece. I've only just started trying to learn 3D drawing techniques and your description of the thought processes involved has given me the inspiration to try a bit harder. I still have to decide what type of 3D printer to buy. I've been dabbling with BG models since I bought a couple of Mike Sharman 'Firefly' kits about 40 years ago (1 each with 4 wheel & 6 wheel tenders) and plan to try and get them up and running with proper mechanisms sometime in the next 12 months. My previous methods of running involved a couple of home made, four wheel, power bogies fitted inside a six wheel first and a iron luggage van. Both motors lost the magic smoke that makes them work around the year 2000 and my 28mm test track was scapped about the same time. Dave R.