Hotspurworks

Gents. Thanks for all your posts on this subject. I have made progress and decided the best option was that posted by Silversidelines. So, I have reduced slightly the diameter of the nylon centres and, additionally, reduced their thickness, including shaving off the front,central, boss. As things stand they appear to lie flat. However, Malta's DIYers are not able to purchase Evostik Pipeweld so, at present, I have used UHU.

Lets hope the matter is solved.

Jim

Poi

I can understand that, it was the way I felt at one time, but what are you prepared to pay for good, reliable running ?? 

Point taken.

Have a look at the Scalelink website- they have a range of plastic centred wheels which may suit your purpose- not knowing sizes you will have to search their products.

It looks as though that may be a suitable option I'll look further at their website.

Thanks, Jim

Use Markits wheels instead.  What diameter are the Bachmann wheels and axles?

Sadly while this would be a preferred option, there's rather a lot of work to make it suitable for the split chassis that this loco uses.

Jim

Contact Bachmann they should have spare sets. They will need the model number.

Thanks, I'll give that a go.

Funny you should say that, I've got 2 B1's that got 'retired' a couple of years ago, and sidelined while I decided what to do with them when I had more time. As all other loco jobs had been cleared out of the way a few weeks ago the decision was taken to replace the woeful early Bachmann split-chassis with Wizard/ Comet/ Mashima motor/ High level gearbox/ Markits wheels replacements .

Bit pricey for my liking but thanks anyway.

Hi Jim

 

I resurrected a couple of old B1s just before Christmas and was planning to add a Post to my Blog.

 

 

As you can see from this before and after video you can make a great improvement with very little effort and very little expense.

 

Nylon isolators (wheel joiners) are available direct from Bachmann Branchlines. The oversize wheel centres can be poked out from behind using a cocktail stick starting at the balance weight. It is then a simple if somewhat tedious matter to reduce the size of the nylon with a little emery paper until the wheel centre drops back into the metal wheel casting.  A little bit of warmth and finger flexing should get it back to a 'flat' shape.  I left the nylon still slightly oversize so that it was tight fit in the wheel casting - no need to use any glues to hold it back in place.

 

It was really very straightforward.

Now, this really something to have a go at. Thanks.

I didn't realise there are so many other options! I'll certainly try the "clapped out" chassis route. Thanks for the information.

Although Replica first released the B1, if I remember correctly a conversation I had while working at the Palitoy warehouse around 1984-5 development was started either by Airfix before their takeover or Palitoy for the Mainline range, test models having been running in their R & D department.

All of the Replica ones had a slip acknowledging the assistance provided by Bachmann so maybe presume they manufactured them?

 

Edit: Replica also released their version of the STD 4. Also I seem to recall they did the GWR 0-6-2T as well, could be wrong on that so happy to bow to greater knowledge

Although Replica first released the B1, if I remember correctly a conversation I had while working at the Palitoy warehouse around 1984-5 development was started either by Airfix before their takeover or Palitoy for the Mainline range, test models having been running in their R & D department.

All of the Replica ones had a slip acknowledging the assistance provided by Bachmann so maybe presume they manufactured them?

 

Edit: Replica also released their version of the STD 4. Also I seem to recall they did the GWR 0-6-2T as well, could be wrong on that so happy to bow to greater knowledge

It happens on the Std 4 split chassis as well. I did file off material aroung the outer circumfrence but they bowed again within a year or so, for now I have just removed them and will look at shortening the spokes.

Thanks, maybe that's the answer.

Jim

Now, I am probably not the first to bring up this problem and, I am open to anyone who may already have found an answer. But anyway, here goes.....

I have two Bachmann chassied  B1's which I find impossible to run due to the distortion of the Nylon wheel centres. Having removed the wheels, removed coupling rod pins and wheel centres I wondered what, if anything can be done to restore their running. It seemed to me that there are three possible options:

1) Glue the wheel centres to the cast wheels - tried but the distortion seems stronger than any of the glues I have!

2) Make .5mm plasticard replacements  - tried, but not wholly successful - breaking through between spokes... maybe a possibility if I have much more time and patience! (they'd also need glueing in place)

3 Get replacements made from laser cut material. 

Whether option 3 is realistic I am not sure and I haven't approached any companies involved in this process. In addition I suspect  the cost of R&D will make the cost prohibitive for just two loco's. 

So, this why I am posting this. Are there any other modellers out there who might make use of these replacements? 

Awaiting your responses.

Jim

To all,

I've had a quote now from a company who are offering to 3D print the lamps. Unfortunately at in excess of £23.00 per lamp...... I'm not going to proceed,

Jim

Would Bachmann Scenecraft 44-542 - Concrete Platform Lamps x 4 be any good as a starting point? The lamps are wrong, but the columns are octagonal, and not a bad match for the photo.

 

Dave

Thanks Dave for your suggestion. I had a look at the lamps on eBay but I think they'd be a bit oversized. I'm following a number of lines of enquiry at the moment; we'll see.

Jim

Concrete columns are frequently octagonal, occasionally hexagonal. The shaft is tapered and the base enclosure has a compound shape which would be difficult to form in a scratch build. Possibly one for the 3D printing chaps.

Thanks for your post - as usual, the assumed simple turns out to be rather more complex. I have no idea about 3D printing; chaps or otherwise.... but had also thought it may be something York Modelmaking might be able to produce. As usual, it comes down to how much I want to pay for just a part of a layout.  

Jim

You could use square styrene for the base, compromise with straight hex http://hobby.uk.com/materials/plastic/styrene-rod/hexagonal.htmland either scratch build or resin cast the lamp heads.

Well, Ajaxjones, seems you've found a possible solution. At 3.2mm across the points the post would be around 9&3/4" scale which might be a tad undersized but manageable. More food for thought.

Thanks again.

Jim

Hex-profile is available from this manufacturer in brass, but might be too small for your needs: click. However, they do offer a bespoke profile service, just email the chap. Mind, he is in Liechtenstein and prices his products in CHF. I haven't had any personal dealings with this company, but a friend has and he's supportive of this guy. (I understand it's a one-man operation) I don't know how proficient he is in English, but I reckon you'd be OK on that. After all, he's trading in a global market

Thanks Dutch_Master; I had a look at the website but, sadly the only size available is 2mm across the "points" which is just to small. 

I do appreciate your assistance though.

Jim

For the base i would use larger round plastistruct or a plastic similar,and just file a taper on the top of it.

Not saying this is the easiest or best way to do it of course,just how id give it a go if it was me.

 

Cheers

 

Ben

Hi Ben, thanks for your post.

I've been trawling the Flicker site and, of course, I found photo's of the said lamps. They're more complex than I remembered from my youth - Hexagonal posts for a start.... and, as I counted up and need 20 of the blighters, I'm not sure I have enough years left to construct them!

Whether they might be commercially viable I don't know but I might just "dip my toe in the water" to find out what it might cost to say, have them cast in White Metal.

Take a look at a Brentwood one - they're exactly the same.

Jim 

Knightwing sell them 1950/1960 style lamp posts platform lamp posts but they have the round style post,not that it really helps you as your after the square type!

Maybe if you can find an old photo to post on here of the style of lamp post it may help.

Have you thought about trying to scratch build them?

Maybe the square plastistrut would work?

Then sprayed with that Plasticoat suede concrete coloured paint?

 

Cheers

 

Ben

Thanks Ben; I have seen the Knightwing product but felt it was too modern for my needs. Photo's of the right type seem a bit thin on the ground but I suspect one will turn up as soon as I finish a scratchbuild one!! I think you idea of plastistruct may the way forward.

JIm

As a lad, in the 50's, my local station, Shenfield & Hutton on the GE, had Concrete, T shaped fluorescent platform lights. I would like to model some on my own layout but have failed to find a supplier - so far. 

Does anyone have any ideas? or, perhaps, have any suggestions how I might model them in 4mm. I'm aware of some later circular pole types but they won't do, unfortunately.