wiggy1

OK,

Its not my sound file.

Having said that, to alter CV179 to give greater stopping distance lower the value.

I set my default to CV179=50

Be interested in what the default is on yours?

Wiggy.

Chances are that its my sound file.

Can you read CV106?

Send me a PM.

Wiggy.

14 hours ago, paul 27 said:

 also there is in the cab  a strange bluish white light.

Thats the cab light, it is to White in my opinion.

Wiggy.

On 15/09/2023 at 16:41, Darius43 said:

Just fitted a Roads and Rails ESU sound decoder to my 10800 and the top light doesn’t work with that either.  
 

The bodyshell is a tight fit and on re-fitting, getting all the wire handrails back into the little holes in the chassis was a nightmare.

 

To whichever Heljan designer came up with that idea - I’m reaching for the cattle prod right now…

 

Stupid bodyshell removal requirements do seem to be a Heljan speciality.  The exact opposite end of the spectrum to Accurascale - who actually employ intelligent designers.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

The top light on the long nose end is wired to AUX2 so you need a decoder that has AUX3 capability (see below).

Also the top light on the short nose is wired to AUX3 BUT it only works when moving (this is not a decoder programming issue but a wiring issue as far as I can tell) and in the wrong direction so it comes on when moving in the forward with the long nose leading on the short nose end.

Explain that one!!!!

Also AUX1 works the cab light.

Confused.

Wiggy.

17 hours ago, Jademalo said:

I've recently been considering the fairly elaborate project of creating an accurate model of the old Tyne and Wear Metrocars, and one of the more complex aspects is I want to attempt to compile a good sound profile of them before they're retired.

 

 

I was going to send you a PM but either you have messages disabled or you can't receive them yet as you have only just joined.

See if you can send me a PM message.

Wiggy.

3 hours ago, Wear Valley Wanderer said:

I recently bought a sound chip, one of the ESU Hi-Fi versions, for my Class 31. When fitted I noticed the sound was working, but the lights weren't. What was really weird was that every time I tried to turn the lights on the motor went dead. And no, I hadn't checked it on DC first (!) more fool me.

 

I thought that since this was an old model, that the wiring (Which looked a bit wonky anyway) was possibly shorting. So, off I went and stripped it out, re-wired it, and refitted the chip. Same result. 

 

Along comes a friend with an ESU chip tester, which we duly plugged in. No lights. Every time you turn them on (Or rather try to) the motor dies. Sound is okay though.

 

Any thoughts on this? I have a feeling the chip may be knackered, and I doubt resetting the chip would do very much.

 

The seller is away for another week or so, which means I can't contact them and I'm stuck with a workbench full of bits in the meantime!

 

If anyone can give me any advice I'd be very grateful as I'm at my wits end with this blasted thing.

 

Cheers,

 

Mark 

Might be worth resetting the sound file (CV8=8 then recycle the power) but it sounds faulty to me.

When you say the motor dies do you mean sound or no drive?

When you turn the light off is the motor and sound OK?

Neil.

Did you use your controller to do the CV8=8?

Did you recycle the power after you did CV8=8?

Wiggy.

Have you removed the capacitors normally two wired to the motor for TV interference ?

I think it is possible but you would really should be talking to Bif.

I think you will find that Bif's coupling incorporates a buffer clash AND a coupling sound on the one sound slot.

So as the shuffle (F21) is pressed you will get the coupling sound, then when it moves you will get the buffer clash I THINK.

Best speak to Bif, he does not bite, not on weekdays anyway.

Wiggy.

Before we go to far and change something that does not need changing we need to know what decoder make we are talking about, Zimo or ESU or other?

I think some are assuming its an ESU but being S/H it could be anything.

Wiggy.

4 hours ago, Pete the Elaner said:

 

Wrong way round.

A 100ohm speaker won't damage a new decoder. It will just be too quiet to hear easily.

A 4ohm speaker will damage a Loksound v3/v3.5.

Over time I've repaired a few v4 fitted locos with a 100 Ohm speakers fitted with blown decoders.

OK it may have not blown due to the 100 Ohm speaker but best practice is to fit the recommend speaker for that decoder.

Agreed the v3.5 with a 4 Ohm speaker is asking for trouble but again I've seen that working but not for long.      

Wiggy.

Looks like it has had a sound decoder fitted at some time as the photo does not show any decoder fitted.

The switch is none factory fitted and the best way to test the speaker is with a Ohms meter as it may well be a 100 Ohm speaker that will damage any new sound decoder.

Wiggy

1 hour ago, Pete the Elaner said:

 

Is it possible to lock a v4 in this way?

I thought the whole point of the Loksound Select was to lock it: the Select's specs are the same as the v4 but it takes different uploads which cannot be compiled with a Lokprogrammer.

If its a select decoder it can only be re-blown with a select file from ESU.

Never seen a v4 that has been totally locked only the sound file which can be over written except for a select as above and to be honest as I've never seen one totally  locked I've not tried to unlock one but if it is locked I'm sure it can be unlocked with a programmer except a select sound file.

Wiggy.

1 hour ago, daltonparva said:

Hello Folks.

I've recently fitted a loksound 3.5 to a loco, and after a lot of fiddling it runs reasonably, chuffs per rev are reasonable, but the main problem is whenever the loco starts it always gives 2 chuffs before the wheels turn. Any ideas how to stop this?

I have done some programming with 3.5 steam files and I've had a quick look but can't see anything that will change this, but my knowledge on 3.5 is fairly limited.

At the back of my mind this is a common fault with 3.5 steam but again I maybe wrong.

Who's sound file is it?

The only thing that springs to mind is the setting in CV2 but also strange that the rest of the chuff's are in sync.

It could also be a couple of chuff's in the flow chart but either way you need a programmer to help you or consult the creator of the file.

Wiggy.

32 minutes ago, LittleWesternModelRailway said:

Another quick question for the masses. So I'm looking at sound files (YouChoos to be precise) and I see an option for "LoadCode". What does this mean? Am I purchasing a code to request the sound file to install myself? TIA

Yes, you need a Zimo programmer to do this.

The file is then locked to the decoders code and sent over the internet.

Wiggy.

This might help.

00100_LS_US_UserManual_01.pdf

Hi Chris,

If you reduce CV4 that will make the coasting slow down quicker.

To increase the braking you will have to confirm this with DC Kits or Legomanbiffo as it depends on how he has set up the braking function.

It's normally CV179 you need to increase but make a note of any settings before you change anything.

Altering CV4 may have an effect on the manual braking as well so try that first then check with the above.

Wiggy.

P.M. sent.

PM sent.

Would the 128 being a parcels unit have the double buzzer?

Wiggy.

Why don't you drop Charlie or Ian an email and ask them?

You know you are changing the right CV combination then.

Wiggy.

Drop CV52 down to a low number (below 5) bit by bit or even down to zero and see how it goes.

Make a note of the settings before you do anything in CV's 52, 53(should be about 120), 54 and 55.

Wiggy.

Bachmann/EFE Beattie Well Tank is core less motor.

Wiggy.

The new Bachmann MR 1532 (P1) is also a core less motor.

Wiggy.