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Wyvern

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Posts posted by Wyvern

    Any Question Answered

    in 2mm Finescale

    Posted

    I am currently converting a new farish 4f to an approximation of a SR Q class. I just wanted to check whether model strip is able to remove the paint finish from the plastic body shell or whether something else would be more suitable?

    Wagenwerk Order Issues

    in German Railways

    Posted

    Hello all, well its been almost a year since my last post - how the time flies.  I wanted to purchase the same parts that I tried to buy last year; item Weinert 56520 9.8mm 9 spoke wheels.   I had an email from wagenwerk back in september saying the item had finally come through and that I could place my order when I liked.   I emailed them back recently to check that this was still the case but had no reply.  As weinerts' shop site isn't fully operational yet, I was wondering where best to order from as I don't want to deal with wagenwerk if they wont return emails and my german isnt up to a phone call.    I am sure they are fine to deal with on the phone.  

     

    First thoughts;

     

    https://www.modellbahnshop-lippe.com/produkt/Weinert/10-4-0-241701-001005003-0-0-0-0-0-0-grp-gb-p-0/ein_produkt.html     5 -10 days

     

    http://www.weinert-bauteile.de/weinert-modellbau-56520-vorlauf-radsatz-rp25-fine-scale-d=9-8mm-9-speichen-weinert-56520,art-32166    ordered from manufacturer

     

    https://www.mcschueler.de/weinert-modellbau-56520-vorlauf-radsatz-rp25-fine-scale-d=9-8mm-9-speichen-weinert-56520,art-40522 2-4 days from payment

     

    has anyone used any of the above or any other recommendations?

     

    All the best

     

    Guy  

    Any Question Answered

    in 2mm Finescale

    Posted

    Hi Pete,

     

    I am using 11mm wheels as the Farish N Class originals are 10.8mm.   These seem to fit without any clearance issues and I think this is the rim diameter John Greenwood would have used.   I have also found that the 57xx coupling rods from the replacement rods for GF locomotives (3-205) seem to be an exact match for the N class (approximately 14.5mm +16.5mm) although the rod knuckle is around the wrong way.  The rods are designed for larger crankpins for the old ballentine wheels I think, but as the original farish mechanism has alot of "slop" in the mechanism, I am hoping this wont be an issue.

     

    Guy

    Any Question Answered

    in 2mm Finescale

    Posted

    Guy

    I think it was M1, but I can't be certain. I would check for you, but I can't get out to my workshop since sliding on ice on Monday and tearing a hamstring. I will confirm when I get more mobile.

    Good luck with the re-rimming.

    Pete

     

    Pete - I have taken one of the crank bolts out and measured the outside diameter as 0.97mm so I believe its an M1 thread.  Sorry to hear about your hamstring - I wish you a speedy as possible recovery

     

    Guy

    Any Question Answered

    in 2mm Finescale

    Posted

    Nigel/ Pete/ Chris,

     

    Thanks for your advice.    I am going to first try the re-rimming method and if that fails - I will probably go with Pete's solution.   Can I ask Pete, what thread are the crankpins - M1 or 0.75?

     

    Guy 

    Any Question Answered

    in 2mm Finescale

    Posted

    Hi,

     

    I am planning to convert a farish N class to finescale much as John Greenwood did by fitting 2fs rims to the farish wheels.   As these are reasonably fragile, I wanted to get some advice on what turning speeds to use on the wheels - treat them as brass?   I'll likely remove one wheel of each wheelset from the axle to hold the wheel boss/bearing surface in a collet.  I will freshly sharpen the tool beforehand.  I imagine loctite 603 is a good bet to fix the rims to the wheels? 

     

    thanks

     

    Guy

    Any Question Answered

    in 2mm Finescale

    Posted

    Hi Guy,

    I use phosphoric acid flux which seems to work fine. As I said I make a small countersink by twiddling a drill bit in my fingers first. This gives somewhere for the solder to go resulting in a good strong joint whilst still allowing the joint to be filed back flush with the rear of the wheel without filing all the solder away!

    To hold I simply pop the crankpins in , turn it up so the rear of the wheel is facing me and gently press down on the bench to hold the crankpins tight to the wheel. With care the shouldered crankpins wil hold everything square.

    The solder may well flash through to the front but it's not crucial so long as the countersink fills with solder. The trick is a hot iron with a descent size bit on it. The mistake I see time and again with soldering is that just because it's 2mm people think they need a piddly little pointy bit . Use the biggest bit you can that will do the job, you want plenty of heat and in and out quick. The little pointy bits have their place but rarely I find in normal construction work.

     

    Jerry

     

     Hi Jerry et al,

     

    Thanks for the tips.  In the words of Columbo... just one more thing.   I have been using Multicore 0.5mm or 0.7mm diameter solder for most tasks with frys flux if better flow is required.   Is using multicore ok with phosphoric acid flux or should I be using solid solder - if so do you have any recommendations?

     

    Guy

    Any Question Answered

    in 2mm Finescale

    Posted

    I've always soldered crankpins in. I make a small countersink on the rear of the wheel, flux and touch it with a hot, tinned iron. Never had a problem, either with damaging the wheel or crankpins coming loose.

     

    Likewise with valve gear, I always solder, I've never been a fan of hitting something to fix it!

     

    Jerry

    Can I ask which flux you use for this.   I had some issues with the solder not flowing into the joint well enough with the Fluxlite solder paste I use for my soldering - should I be using phosphoric acid liquid flux perhaps for better flow?  Do you try to get the solder to run to the front of the wheel around the crank pin.  Also how do you hold them in place so they don't move during soldering? 

     

    thanks   Guy

    Any Question Answered

    in 2mm Finescale

    Posted

    I think nick may have hit it on the head - I didn't drill the hole  :O !   I cant believe I didn't think of that as I have done it for all the previous association muffs I have installed.    

     

    Thanks

     

    Guy

    Any Question Answered

    in 2mm Finescale

    Posted

    I am part way through a 4f conversion using the Jinty conversion muffs.   I found when I installed the driving wheels I found that the muffs were extremely tight - a lot more so than the standard 2mm muffs.   I imagine this is because the material is much stiffer than that used for the 2mm standard muffs.   The wheels seemed to have come out ok, but I would be reluctant to install future wheels with such tight a fit for fear of damaging them or the quartering tool.   Do they need opening out slightly to say 1.47mm or so?   Thoughts on a postcard....

    Wagenwerk Order Issues

    in German Railways

    Posted · Edited by Wyvern

    Hi I have ordered some parts from wagenwerk on the 3rd May and they have debited my creditcard.  After making the order I recieved an email stating that;

     

    Hallo Herr Guy Hamilton-Fletcher,

    Der Status Ihrer Bestellung mit der Bestellnummer: 160907 vom  03-05-2017 hat sich geändert. Der neue Status lautet nun In Bearbeitung (Wartet).

    Mit freundlichen Grüßen,

    Ihr Team von WAGENWERK - Feine Details und Eisenbahnmodelle

     

     

    Google translate: 

     

     

    Hello Mr. Guy Hamilton-Fletcher,

    The status of your order with the order number: 160907 from 03-05-2017 has changed. The new status is Now In Process.

    Best regards,

    Your team at WAGENWERK - Fine details and railroad models

     

     

    I have sent a number of emails to info@wagenwerk.de about my order but haven't had any response.   They are weinert HO wheels.   Unfortunately my German (limited) is not sufficient for a phone call so any thoughts on how best to proceed? 

     

    Thanks

     

    Guy

    Etched loco chassis

    in 2mm Finescale

    Posted

    Ca anyone confirm whether the holes in the rods on the shop's "Replacement nickel-silver coupling rods for GF locomotives" etch suit the Association crankpins or are they sized to fit the Farish? Essentially can I use the etch with standard finescale wheels and parts . . . 

     

    Thanks in anticipation.

     

    Hi I can confirm that the holes are too large (0.7mm diameter) to be used with association crankpins without alot of play.   My understanding is that the coupling rod etch was designed to suit the original Ballentine range of wheels that used to be sold as direct drop in replacements for the older Farish locomotives.   Hope that helps

     

    Guy

    Whats on your 2mm Work bench

    in 2mm Finescale

    Posted

    It runs beautifully - congratulations.   I noticed you powered the P2 with a loco mounted gearhead motor - have you generally moved away from tender mounted motors and cardan shaft drive or was there simply enough space in the P2 so you thought why not?   

     

    Guy

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