Airport2010

Ben While we’re on the (unfortunate) subject of Heljan quality issues, I’ll just put the boot in once more! My centre headcode Class 20 (about 18 months old) had been recently shorting out my entire layout for reasons unknown. It had developed a habit of dragging both axles at one end and therefore refused to run with my other 20 as a pairing. I finally got forensic with it last week and removed each motor in turn to see if anything improved. One motor was clearly a smoother, faster and quieter performer when hooked up to a square 9v ‘smoke alarm’ battery, but just to ‘seal the deal’, I selected address 00 on the DCC throttle and connected the sickly motor to each running rail with its own two wires. It immediately shorted the layout so I had my answer. I believe these motors are sealed for life in the factory therefore no fix can be applied, so I’m now running the loco with just one motor. Not a huge issue especially when running as a pair, but not the point either! I haven’t looked yet to see if Gaugemaster have spare motors (I think they’re about £12?) but even though I’ve invalidated any possible warranty by doing the above, I’d suggest that a replacement motor would be a reasonable request given the loco’s age? Any thoughts or comments to share?

I expect Ben Jones will want to step in and make things right with you as soon as he reads this? That’s what I’d expect him to do anyway. He’s the only person within Heljan worth a carrot when it comes to customer service as far as I can see. In terms of damaged locos I’ve never had a problem...but only because I make a 120 mile round trip to pick them up in person from Antics.

Hi Ellis Set of four ordered earlier...Motorail

Hi Just completed the transplant of an ESU Loksound XL from my older Heljan 31 (which is now a free runner with no motors) into the new one that’s just out. All is well and the loco runs very nicely. I’ve noticed that Heljan have now doubled-up the functionality of the LED that illuminates the headcode display, so that it now lights the cab as well. Really helpful: not. I was initially looking for a switch somewhere under the loco that could possibly turn the cab lights off, as you’d clearly not want them on at night but there doesn’t appear to be one, so I’m now wondering if I can turn down the brightness of said LED? So does anyone know the CV number for adjusting cab lighting brightness downwards, as I don’t have the ESU manual and the website appears to be all in Deutsch! Rather do that than cover the LED in black electrical tape! Thanks in advance

Thanks gents for all those replies! Much obliged!

Hi all Does anyone know the size (diameter is the most critical dimension) of the split pin that Heljan uses in its screw link coupling assembly? I’ve found a couple of sets of said couplings which I can use, but the split pins are missing. Was thinking I could probably buy a pack on Ebay. I only need three items but expect I’ll have to buy 100

Thanks HN and Brushman for the info. Much appreciated!

1980 blue era. Planning on getting two locos. One retained the tank and one lost it. 47330/47364.

Hi. Can anyone who has the original Heljan 47 confirm if the boiler water tanks are easily removable to create a 47/3, or are they actually supplied loose in the box, in order to be fitted If you wish to create a 47/0? I’m assuming that whatever was the case with the first loco will be repeated with this one. Ta

Thanks Norman, I’ll report back in due course.

Hi Norman CV 294 was set at 31 when I checked before adjusting it, which initially gave me some encouragement! I then reset it to a value of 1 with no change whatsoever, then a value of 0 with the same result. The sound is great when you select F12, but the fan spins like a demented food mixer!

Hi again Mike I looked at those CV settings you referred to above, but unfortunately the decoder was already a perfect match to all three, so I’ve given up and admitted defeat on this roof fan. Body is now all zipped back up again and I’ll move on to other things. Cheers anyway! Brgds

Thanks Mike I’ll have a play with those CV settings as you suggest. Much appreciated!

Thanks Paul I’ll take a look at the Loksound paperwork for some wise words!

Hi Paul. Thanks for that reply. When you say potentiometer, do you mean the little knurled plastic wheel which is part of the fan housing that you adjust with a tiny screwdriver? If so, I’ve looked for that already, but I don’t believe the 37 has one. I’ve seen them on my other locos, but not on this one. Could you explain what PWM is? Sorry I’ve not come across that before. I’m happy installing decoders in a Janet and John process manner, but fiddling with them is scary stuff! Cheers Phil