1965Paul

Hi Phil

apologies for slow response, life keeps getting in the way.  Is the sheet on the model pagoda the same pitch as i am using previously previously -    approx 2mm between corrugations and 1mm high?

Looks a bit bigger from the picture but difficult to be sure?   You have now got me wondering if i have been using too small a pitch?

A WIP Picture of my latest project hopefully shows what i mean, the yellow card on the roof is a lot coarser pitch (approx 3mm, vs the walls ~2mm)

any further advice welcomed, so i can acquire the right stuff....

7 hours ago, Paul H Vigor said:

https://www.hope-education.co.uk/product/art-and-design/creative-papers/other-creative-papers/micro-flute-corrugated-sheets---a4---assorted---pack-of-10/he1759487?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PMAX&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA6vaqBhCbARIsACF9M6lQTxxkCsFhGkpq4BbZLPhNmNEx-2LwNe8z4jiVbYnC8vl0Q7OvejYaAgHfEALw_wcB

 

https://wigstonpaper.com/corniche-fluted-board/

 

Is this any good??

Hi Paul

thanks for the leads, appreciate the time taken to respond.

I think the top one is a little coarse, counting the corrugations has driven me mad! bottom link looks like the right sort of stuff, will try and contact them in the  morning as probably outside office hours now.

thanks again and regards

Paul

Good morning all

please can i pick you collective brains. I have used Micro  Flute single sided corrugated card to represent corrugated iron on 7mm buildings,  My stock is running out and I can't trace any similar on the net...  The product is I think F Flute,  approx 2mm between corrugations and 1mm high.   Can find plenty of E Flute but this looks too coarse to my mind....

Any leads would be apprecaited

thanks in advance

Paul 

59 minutes ago, phil_sutters said:

The best way to enjoy modern art galleries is to take a twelve-year-old grand-daughter, with outspoken views on most things. Here we are enjoying one of the few exhibits that was actually good fun. Most of the rest we made fun of.

http://www.ipernity.com/doc/philsutters/46588476/in/album/1058646

There's plenty of stuff in the album to illustrate the point. I had as much fun out of photographing the architecture and visitors.

Taking an engineering student to the Tate Modern on her 21st birthday after a bottomless Presseco lunch is probably a similar experience, we weren’t left wondering  about her opinions on modern art.

Hi Paul

 

good to talk this morning and thanks for the very clear and understandable advice. Look forward to receiving the new speaker and keep alive in due course. Probably have been easier to buy the full DCC/Sound installation kit from you to start with, certainly less confusing, but I learn best by making mistakes!

 

kind regards

 

 

 

Paul

Items safely received and fitted, sounds great, far better with the sugar cube speak under the pcb than the 20mm speaker. Thanks again for the advice, gave me the confidence to proceed

Kind regards

Paul

Give me a ring in the morning 01904 331973 and I'll sort you out with a speaker and a mounting pad

Hi Paul

good to talk this morning and thanks for the very clear and understandable advice. Look forward to receiving the new speaker and keep alive in due course. Probably have been easier to buy the full DCC/Sound installation kit from you to start with, certainly less confusing, but I learn best by making mistakes!

kind regards

Paul

The "factory fitted" sound ones (ok, it's actually me doing them in York) have a sugar cube speaker in the body.

 

I don't use the underframe mounted 20mm speaker is a bit naff and you get poor response from it as the "enclosure" doesn't have enough air volume behind it. The other reason for not using it is that getting the keeper off with the brake gear.

 

I can't recall for sure but I thought there were solder pads in the speaker mount with wires already run up to the PCB.

Hi Paul

thank you for such a prompt and helpful response,  guess that its only when some points out the obvious that it all falls into place, why am I struggling with the 20mm speaker when I easily (?!) put a smaller one in the body. Could you be so kind as to recommend a suitable speaker  - I have checked your website and can't seem to see a list of speakers - not sure if you sell them separately? I guess you locate them in the void under the pcb/socket in the firebox?

As a follow up, the speaker I fitted is a 4ohm, if my reading of a few websites is correct, I should get more volume from an 8ohm speaker - at similar amplifier settings and size?.

kind regards and thanks again

Paul

Hi

my entry into todays "most dull question" competion is below.

I have recently bought a Minerva Peckett, beautiful loco, superb service (ordered Sunday and delivered Tuesday), along with a Zimo Mx645R sound decoder and 50331 Loksound 20mm speaker from Digitrains, again ordered Sunday and delivered Tuesday. Have successfully fitted the chip and run the loco run up and down on my 1  yard long test track, 

I have also successfully fitted the speaker directly to wires off the chip whilst the body is off, but wonder how you can embed the speaker in the recess in the chassis as suggested in the Minerva instructions, do you thread the chip wires down to the recess, if so how, they aren't long enough (I think) , or can you solder the speaker to two short wires and onto the circuit board in the recess, if so which of the four pads?  

Apologies if this is a numpty question, this is the first loco I have tried to fit sound to, and can't seem to find the information on the forum.   

Absolutely no criticism of either of the manufacturers and traders here, this is purely due to my own lack of understanding, in fact quite the opposite, great service received from both,

Any advice gratefully received, and thanks in advance

Paul

Excellent - we'll done!

My understanding is that the Emblazer is inherently unable to cut Christmas or Birthday cards or decoration - or indeed flowery or lacy bits at all.... something to do with the software development.... most unfortunate, but there you are....

Giles

I won’t argue with a master of the emblaser such as you, but having seen Monkeysarefuns superb gates and windows, he may not be as agreeable.....?

I must admit that maybe I have let the side down and bought some of the problems on myself. As a test yesterday, I cut out SWMBOs name to try and prove the emblaser wasn’t a complete waste of money, so her comment wasn’t totally out of left field.

Have had a totally frustrating evening trying to focus tonight, lens kept falling out before the focus was in place. Have left a question on the darkly labs community to seek some further assistance from Domenic.

On a positive note, no gremlins got at the machine last night, so still cutting full patterns

I will crack this, I will crack this, I will.......

Regards

Paul

And for tonights episode of Paul vs the Beast:-

Firstly thanks for all the offers of help and suggestions so far, really appreciate the support. I have take the FFC out of both the laser head and the circuit board, no charring or any visible damage, gently wiped the contacts, refitted and retested.

Woohoo!!!

The machine now runs complete patterns drawn directly in cut2dlaser, imported from a dxf and a pdf drawn in inkscape. Repeated many times on many different patterns including lettering and no failures to date, so the incomplete cutting appears to be down to a poorly fitted FFC. Also the laser pattern appears to be different when cutting, somehow brighter (difficult to tell with the yellow specs thought). This is backed up by the cutting performance. Haven't changed focus since yesterday, and I don't think its spot on, but now cutting copy paper @ 70% 15mm/sec in one pass with a very clean cut. As an aside, SWMBO is now asking "can it cut out Christmas Decorations" (sorry - a mention of Christmas in April, I will go to the back of the class )

Need to pluck up the courage to have another crack at the mdf, maybe after a little focus tweaking. Seems like tomorrows challenge.

to be continued...............

kind regards

Paul

I suppose there is a outside chance the lense is upside down...? However, regarding the intermittent cutting, I'm afraid I'm at a loss - software is really not my thing!

 

Domenic at Darkly Labs is extremely helpful when it comes to people with problems though - we'll worth getting in touch with him.

Hi Giles

thanks for taking the time to comment, and its ALWAYS possible that when I build something that is upside down, inside out or back to front. However, I did check on the Darklylabs forum when I refitted so don't think its the case here. Will double check again tomorrow just to be sure.

Paul,

 

I got the file and had a quick look at it and it looks fine.  I thought it might have somehow got multiple laser ON/OFF commands but there was just one "ON" (M3 S255 (100%)) at the start of the file and two M5s (OFF) at the end.  So the laser should come on continuously for the whole of the cut of the circle.   One thing I did notice is that the file consists of a series of short chords to draw the circle using the G1 command,  and there are 843 lines in the file.    This is the way that your machine controller actually generates a curved path but the GCode to drive it is usually a lot more efficient and uses the G2 or G3 codes to describe the circle for the controller. 

 

I drew the same circle in Cut2D and generated a file and that used the G2 code and contained only 15 lines. :-)   It might be worth drawing the circle in Cut2D and see if that works any differently when cutting the circle in the Emblaser.   You can view .nc files in a simple word processor like Notepad or Wordpad - they are basic text files - and it gives you a chance to check the line count of the files and whether G1 codes (lots of lines) or G2 codes (much fewer lines) have been used.   If it cuts OK with the G2 code then there might be a wee bug in the Emblaser firmware which doesn't like circles described as very short chords in GCode.  But I suspect that your fault will be elsewhere since a lot of graphics programs use short chords to describe circles and I think such a fault would have been reported already.

 

Another possibility might be a poor contact with the flexible cable which gives a poor connection when the laser head is in a certain position.  If you cut the circle and the gap is still there,  try cutting again and persuading the cable to adopt a different loop and see if the fault is still there.

 

Jim.

Hi Jim

thanks - created a simple circle directly in Cut2d and then looked at the .nc file, (now I know how, thanks). it has about 6 header rows and then about 10 lines of code, so looks very different to the original file I pm'ed you earlier.  Ran a quick test, still an incomplete circle, but with a smaller gap. Tried then carefully holding the FFC at different angles and certainly seemed to make a difference to the gap. Some more scientific tests tomorrow, and possibly refit the FFC, and then maybe an email to Domenic if that doesn't cure the problem, I have emailed him previously during construction and received a very prompt, courteous and helpful response.

onward and upward!

kind regards

Paul

 Paul,

 

Is it possible to see the .nc file which is used when you get the problems cutting a circle.  When it keeps happening in the same place after you changing parameters,  there has to be a constant somewhere and that could be in the Gcode - for whatever reason might cause that.

 

I've also been working with the upgraded Cut2D laser V9 and it seems to work well although it refused to produce a tool path for a brick etch which had worked OK in earlier versions.  It looks as though they might have put a bit more error checking in their code generation but with thousands of bricks in the etch,  I didn't feel like checking every one to find out which one might be causing the problem. :-)

 

The main improvements in Cut2D V9 Laser would appear to be in the drawing facilities - much the same as in the CNC Desktop version.  There is a video about the new Cut2D Desktop CNC version which shows the added drawing facilities which look to be the same in the new laser version.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMFClBMD2x8

 

But they have tightened up the generation of tool paths and they are now quite tightly integrated with the tool database.  The kerf width setting has disappeared from the tool path dialogue box and you can only set it in the tool database settings.   I found the same as you with the use of VTransfer and sending direct to the cutter,  which I prefer as well.   One thing I noted was that the basic preferences for VTransfer for A4 set the X width to 305 when it should be 300.   So if your cutter goes to an X setting between 0 and 4,  it hits the left hand end X end stop with a bit of a bang.  :-(    It was the same in the previous version of VTransfer.   The X and Y defaults can be reset in "File/Settings".

 

On your cutting through problems,  I've been having similar concerns but nowhere near as problematic as you.  I've now got my 4W cutter cutting cleanly through 1.5mm MDF at 10mm/sec and 90% power with four passes but it was having difficulties cutting cleanly at 16mm/sec at 90% and nine or ten passes.  Pro rata,  with the speed difference,  the 16mm/sec cuts should have been achieved with six or seven passes.   I am suspecting some form of charring which is preventing clean cutting at the higher speeds.   So you might try dropping you cutting speed and see if your situation improves.   I'm using the MDF I get from Maple Street and I was thinking about trying some from another source to see if the problem is repeatable.   For the above cuts I'm back to using the original lens since both of the higher efficiency lenses I got don't seem to provide much improvement and the original lens gives me a smaller kerf width.

 

Jim.

Jim

thanks for such a prompt response. Just rerun another test, and the same result.... A picture of the result on copy paper is attached, 100%, 10mm/sec, cant upload .nc file, so have sent a pm. 

I am afraid Apple are up to their normal tricks, the picture is rotated 90^o anticlockwise, the cutting mats are at the Bottom of the emblaser (away from the control panel)

really appreciate the support.

regards

Paul

Hi 

Many thanks to all who have posted to offer suggestions to get my emblaser 1 in better order. Really appreciate the time to post. Ran the darkly labs calibration file as Giles suggested, looks fine APART from first 1-2" of the path, tried again on plain circles and squares (both drawn in Cut2dlaser and imported as .dxf from inkscape), and they also showed no impression over first 1-2" of path. This is repeatable from any feed speed from 5-20mm/sc. The laser head appears to follow the full path and the laser seems to be firing?

Tried to refocus (again) yesterday, dot looks to be getting smaller, right up to the point where the lens fall out!, With the lens just screwed in, seems to be a significant light spill around the laser.

Can't recall this from earlier attempts to focus, is this normal.

Tried to cut through 2mm mdf, yesterday 15 passes @ 5mm, 100% on 4 watt didn't cut through, couldn't seem anything on the reverse, so clearly not on top form, (that's both me and the emblaser, in case you were wondering)

As always, appreciate any help, just hoping the laser head isn't knackered; that may be a very expensive mistake.  

On another matter, I upgraded to Cut2dLaser 9.0, and new Vtransfer. The upgrade was painless on Windows 10 laptop, don't know what's going on under the bonnet, but only difference I can find in operation is that cutting doesn't start automatically when sent to the machine, need to trigger the cut in Vtransfer when you get the "ToolPath Loaded" info box.  For me, that's good, its a hard stop to allow me to check the laser is enabled and the workpiece is where I want it.

kind regards

Paul

Hi

thanks for the responses to my earlier post #1119. I wasn't aware that the beam wasn't round, so I have learnt something. Have continued to play with focus but no improvement in cutting performance on MDF. I have looked at all the connections and can't see any darker marks or burning. I then ran a simple test with a 31mm diameter circle on an old piece of cereal card, 10mm/sec, 1 pass, 4 watt laser. I know the focus isn't where it needs to be, but I was quite surprised by the output - expecting a solid burn line, not cutting in/out as below

Seems to me to indicate an intermittent beam?  Has anyone got any ideas that can help me fix this

thanks in advance

Paul

Paul, you can post photos on the Darkly forum, it is not immediately obvious, you hover a mouse at the top of your message and another row of grey icons will appear, one of which will be for photos, can't remember which one, been a couple of months since I last did it.

Looking at your photo, are you sure you are getting a good uninterupted beam?

 

Martin

Hi Martin

I got a response from Darkly with some suggestions on how to post a pic - I can only echo what others have said about their standards of customer support, I can think of many organisations that could learn a lot from them. Have managed to post same pic as above post on Darkly community and wait for their response.

I don't think I am getting an uninterrupted beam, certainly seems oval when very large and clearly out of focus, but difficult to tell when I am getting a far smaller beam, tried looking at in a darkened room and via the "live" photo from an IPad, but still can't be certain.

thanks for taking the time to respond.

kind regards

Paul

Hi All
 
Proud, but confused recent owner of an 4W A3 Emblaser 1 here. I blame the contributors on here for their fantastic skills for HAVING to buy one. I have a long way to go to match the work on display but was making some progress. An early test piece, 2.5mm MDF approx. 7cm diameter.

I started off cutting fairly well, but over last few days, cannot cut through 2mm MDF, even after 12 passes, 100% and 10mm/sec. Previously I was able to get through in 7-8 passes, same setting, and same piece of mdf!. After trying, then trying again, and again for luck to focus, I took the lens off to check if was dirty, seemed fairly clean as had only cut for less than 1 hour. I checked the diode hole (if that's the right terminology??) and there appears to be something covering part of it. 

Have checked all dip switches in the 1 position to give max power, and workpiece is supported off a large ceramic tile by some washers approx. 2-3mm thick to make sure bottom of workpiece not in contact with base. I have ringed the offending area. I don't know if this is normal, or I have some further problems. I have also posted on the DarklyLabs support pages, but don't think they can take photos. Any advice greatly appreciated

thanks in advance, and kind regards

Paul

Hi Mick

apologies   -  I  think our posts crossed in the ether, I hope you don't think I was ignoring your post!   

Creating the outer black line as a cutting line as Jason suggested seemed to work for me, may be a bit tedious on a large section but easy enough. My proposed method for a complete building section would be to create a brick pattern larger than needed and then "count the bricks" to add the outer cutting line and remove any excess pattern outside the finished wall section that I I don't want.  Its really replicating the method I use on pre printed plasticard to make sure that I can get the ends/doors/windows etc in line with the pattern (within the confines of a preset embossed pattern at any rate). Hopefully this will avoid the multiple line issue you highlight above  - what do you think? Apologies to any other browser of this thread if these are "Noddy" questions. 

I now have a choice, try and draw a wall in its entirety or wine.  hmmmmmmmm?

Advice always welcome, but I think I can answer the last question myself.

Thanks very much

Paul

Jason

thank you very much for such a clear and concise explanation. I have been able to follow your instructions and have been able to create the section here:-

Hi

I am trying to teach myself Inkscape as part of my personal "due diligence" before possibly buying an Emblaser, likely to be an Emblaser 1 unless we win the lottery pretty quickly. I am making reasonable progress in no small part due to the help from this thread, but have two questions relating to creating a drawing of a brick building prior to sending for cutting.

I - I have created a stretcher bond pattern, using create tiled clones. However, where the tiled clones touch, there is a double thickness of line. Hopefully the attached picture shows the problem. Firstly, is this an issue for the cuter (guess it is?), and secondly, if so, how do I avoid it and create a brick wall suitable for cutting?

2  -  I can create an outline of a wall in one colour for cutting and then overlay the brick pattern for engraving in another. Unfortunately, I don't know how to create the honey comb pattern on the edge of the wall to allow interlocking with adjacent walls.

Would appreciate any suggestions on how to move forward and give myself (and the household chancellor) the confidence that I can build up the drawing skills to make suitable use of an Emblaser.

Thanks in advance for any advice

kind regards

Paul

edited to add picture which didn't upload first time

Hi all

Thanks for the advice so far, can anyone recommend a source and specification of dropper wire, preferably one that is available in most places so I can buy direct rather than via internet. Now I (sorry, that should be YOU) have sorted out the positioning of the v, keen to make the most of a couple of days off work.

Thanks in advance

Paul

Stephen, John, Martin

thank you for taking the time to offer your advice, it is much appreciated. I am afraid that my workbench time will be rather limited over the next few days, but the way forward is totally clear. The emergency Peco order can remain on hold!

Stephen - agree its cheaper to buy separate items but I wanted the confidence that a single sourced item gives me, assuming I can complete this turnout to meet my (admittedly low) standards, then I will certainly look at sourcing separately next time, in fairness to C&L there are already enough timbers left over to make another 1/2 a turnout

thanks once again, hopefully I won't need to tap your collective wisdom again, but never say never......

kind regards

Paul

Hi

i am constructing my first 7mm point in a bag to see if I can successfully complete one ahead of starting a small 7mm industrial layout (sorry yet another one!). I have laid out the timbering, the straight stock rail and glued that in place. Despite the picture - it is straight, I've checked three times. I have now moved onto the common crossing. In the point in a bag kits it comes as a complete prebuilt unit (thankfully!), the instructions state

"10. Slide one Chair onto each side of the wing rail on the common crossing ..................... These chairs sit on the timber that lay approx. half way between the knuckle and the toe end of the common crossing"

I have tried to do this and lay the common crossing where I think it sits, but there appears to be a soldered piece holding the wing rails and v in place stopping the chairs sliding far enough into the v to sit on the timber. .hopefully the picture describes my confusion more eloquently than I can in words.

Really appreciate any advice - I am sure to have missed something obvious, but I don't know what.

Thanks in advance



Paul