RectoryLane

Just posted on Rapido’s website!

This post from Quarryscapes answers your question- rubdown 

On 24/12/2022 at 19:32, Enterprisingwestern said:

 

ISTR, when discussing the Avonside jig, Derek had worldwide contacts from his days of gainful employment.

 

Mike.

Mike

You may have noticed this but might answer your prayers!  
 

https://www.cambrianmodelrail.co.uk

I’m in for an LSWR C14!

Best wishes 

A magical St Patrick’s day present would be wonderful news

Re Neil’s question about ordering from Mousa. Bill Bedford’s off piste lists indicate the how as copied below. Hope this helps. Kevin

“To order, first check that the items require are not available in the main
lists, if not email Mousa Modes with a list of your requirements. You will be
sent a copy of your order which will be put on hold, until the preparations for
etching are completed, when you will be sent an invoice.”

I think you’ll find that one @Graham_Muz is a Genesis fan

Mark

Scanning through your pages I can’t spot where you have said which “grey” you have used for your Cambrian wagons. Apologies if I missed it. 
 

My son and I are building a number of Cambrian Railways wagons as a distraction from our main model railway project. 
 

Thanks

Kevin

As a friend of Dave at Honley Tank and one who pointed him in the right direction to buy his cutter perhaps I can explain what I am actually doing with my machine.

 

Currently it is beavering away scribing a large sheet of 10thou plastic for me - what is it? Well actually it is English Bond brick paper. Why bother? Well it actually looks a lot better than the Slaters equivalent as the Slaters mortar courses are far too deep and the bricks have rounded corners so why not use the Silhouette to do a much better job for a fraction of the price? It is very easy despite it taking a long time but then what else does it have to do?

 

The artwork is drawn in Coreldraw and I use version 12. I also use this to produce my etch drawings so, for me, this is a no brainer - no point in learning Inkscape for me although I have been very impressed with Mike Trice's achievements using it. The only issue with using Coreldraw is that the drawing starts printing at the bottom of the sheet so before cutting I just move it all to the bottom of the page and then it cuts from the top - leave a gap or it will cut the backing sheet. You don't need to go through any conversion software, just select the Silhouette as if you are sending the job to a printer(yes of course you need to load the driver). Before printing you need to go to properties and select the colour of the line you want to cut, the default on my machine is a grey so just pick black or whatever colour you have used to draw in. Then leave it to cut, no need to go into any other package or buy the Coreldraw add on they are now selling.

 

I have used it to produce 4mm doors and windows for buildings and I intend to use it to mark plastic for buildings and bridges from drawings in thicker materials. 

 

As far as the cutting heads go I am currently using a Roland blade with an adaptor (Ebay) which is working just fine and keeps the costs down compared to the Silhouette blades.

 

Hope this helps Dave to quickly get up and running with his machine once Santa has been.

 

Ralph

An excellent show - well done to the organising team

Just hope that the TBSK is the right way round with the brake towards the middle and not as in the EP pictures.