regme

Yes it is, good point, but I'll be using a straight to line up the flex track so hopefully it will be all good. Well I tried some priming fluid for PVC pipes (MEK) and is holding pretty well, but once I encase the track to make the ground level flush with the top of rail, it should be ok.

The acrylic sheet is the base for a structure that I'm building

ISW - Thanks, I'll check that out

I'm glad you cleared that up, for a minute there I thought I would have to report you to the police :)

Hi Has anyone glued track down to an acrylic sheet? I was going to lightly sand the acrylic sheet before gluing, although I'm not sure what glue to use. Thanks

Thanks

Hi I was explaining to a mate at I was going to use PCB cut into sleeper size pieces and replace the plastic ones over the joint and solder the rail to the sleeper, and he asked why? Why don't you glue the plastics ones and cut through them? There seems to be no difference between the two methods. To be honest I don't see why you should replace the original sleepers with PCB sleepers. Any thoughts on this or am I missing something? Cheers

I'm here all week, try the veal

Good point (sorry)

Thanks, I have a scroll saw so I thought I'd give that a go. The Dremel is on the top, scroll saw on the bottom, compared to the new turnout. The scroll saw seems pretty close, might be the weapon of choice.

Thanks for the comments When looking at this turnout, it looks like the gap between the inner rail and frog is wide enough not to create a short circuit when the wheels cross over it. However, as WIMorrison said there is a caveat that a wheel may touch both, hence cutting the inner rails at the yellow circle is more of any insurance to prevent a short circuit . Also a DCB said cutting the rails may weaken them, other good point to consider. I could test my locos and wagons with the biggest wheel diameter to see if a single wheel will bridge the gap to create a short, then that will dictate whether to cut the rails or not, or cut my losses and buy new turnouts. Upon further searching I found this on the "wiringdordcc" web site I found this, where he also cuts the rails. May be cutting the rails as close and as fine as possible (not using a dremel) is a solution. Thanks

Hi I want to wire up an old peco electrofrog for DCC. This turnout does not have the gaps in the rail as the new turnouts do. Just so I understand, on the back, I would cut the two small wires (red circle) and wire them to a switch to control the polarity of the frog. Join the inner and outer rails to the positive and negative of the bus wire (red lines). No need to do anything on the front especially cutting the rail at the yellow circle. Where the yellow circle is there is a gap on the new turnouts where you would remove the smaller jumpers. I hope that all made sense. Cheers Cheers

Hi It really depends on the level you are at, if your designing your own parts then that would be something you would take into account. If you buying / downloading STL files and hoping just to print them then not all STL files are created equal. I would think even if you download STL then you would still need some sort of software to go over the file and modify it to suit your printer (as files may print differently on different printers). I would think a basic understanding of the process and what is achievable on printer, especially FDM, resin is way easier. As njee20 said post a pic, this could be interesting. Cheers

I have used those dimensions from that pdf, although the x and y are a bit out when scaling up the pdf. The new version look heaps better

Thanks, I'll check that out. Will the servo driver is that using Arduino? The point motor is an M23 point motor, which is one type used on the BHP iron ore railways in the Pilbara.