Office layout

6 of the carriages I have, fitted with plastic wheels, have a fixed back to back of 13.5mm and derail through the new Peco points I have. All my other carriages with a 14mm back to back are fine. It's also clear that the rolling stock I have that has metal wheels runs a lot more smoothly Vs the plastic.

Staying OO gauge, code 100

I need to replace some of the wheel sets on my rolling stock / carriages. Of those that seem readily available, can anyone suggest which to get, or perhaps avoid? Hornby Bachmann Dapol Peters Spares

The oldest loco I have, a Hornby/Triang R357 seems quite happy through the point, and as an added bonus seems to be sparking less on the new track (still have to fit a new capacitor), and is not rubbing on the sleeper chairs as it corners (which it was on the old steel track). I've two locos to adjust as you suggest. The carriage wheel sets in question are unfortunately fixed / cannot be adjusted (plastic). I've just taken delivery of a new Hornby point which I thought I would test as well. Initial results are that the carriages in question go through, and visually you can see the greater tolerance at the guide and frog compared to the Peco. The spacing looks identical to the old Hornby points I have. The switching action is however far less precise and feels sloppy in comparison to the Peco.

So, I decided to experiment / trial some new track on a couple of the fixed radius curves, and a new point to see if performance is any better. On the curves, the locos are perhaps a little smoother. The point has proven more challenging. While all bar one loco goes through without an issue, 6 of my carriages derail. Looking more closely, it appears the tolerance of the new Peco point through the check rail and frog is smaller than the old Hornby steel points I have. Checking the back to back of the wheels on the derailing carriages they all have 13.5mm spacing. Carriages with 14mm spacing go through quite happily. The conclusion I have reached is that I get a marginal (but probably long term) benefit swapping out the steel curves for nickel silver. The new point does seem more precise but would require a little additional expenditure to upgrade the problem carriage wheelsets, again long term probably something worthwhile doing.

Fortunately, the steel track I had was not rusty bar one or two pieces which I did not use. Cleaning was a good rub down with IPA, then polish off crud using 800 grit wet & dry, another wipe down with IPA then finish off with a final rub off with cardboard. I've not got, nor do I plan any inclines, and the locos I have with magnadhesion seem as happy on the new nickel silver track as they are on steel (if anything happier).

As I am progressing with creating my own layout from the collection I inherited, I've reached the point where I have to make a decision about whether to keep the sections of older steel track that I cleaned up (mostly fixed radius curves) or replace with new nickel silver track. I have already used 20 lengths of new semi flex track so have a mix of steel and nickel silver. I've had a look around online at the various pros and cons of the older steel track. My question really is in the long term is there any reason why I shouldn't run a mix of the two track types. At present, the two big loops I have (around 14m length each) are powered by a single connection, and the various 40 - 50 year old (now serviced) locos I have seem to be running around quite happily with very little noticeable difference on the steel track compared to the new. The plan in time will be to have droppers to power the track in various places around the loop. All of the points I have currently have are older Hornby / steel. I'd like to be able to motorise/power switch the points in due course. Cost wise it's bearable to replace both the steel track and points, especially if I use Peco. Equally, it's not a particular hardship to put new fishplates on the old track and solder joints together for the longer term. One plus side of having the old track - it has been really useful in trying variations and to fettle the layout to something I'm happy with. Any thoughts / long term experience of running on a mixed track layout.

Appreciate all the responses - it certainly was a bit sparky when running so for the sake of £1 or so, it's no hardship to solder one on.

I've been servicing a Triang R.357 Diesel loco that I recently came into possession of. From barely running, I've got it whizzing around the track and purring like a kitten - a good clean inc the commutator and new brushes has worked wonders. Using the service sheet as a guide has made things very simple, but I've noticed my loco has two missing elements - the S5230 capacitor which should bridge the two collectors, and the weights over the non powered bogie. So my question is whether it is necessary to have a capacitor fitted (the motor is running really well without) and whether there is anything to gain from adding weight to the non powered bogie?

Hello all, Just a quick introduction having just joined the forum. I've recently come into possession of my late grandfathers OO model railway, comprising a dozen or so locos, passenger and goods rolling stock, controllers, scenic items and of course track, most of it dating to the 70's. After trying to decide what to do with it all, I've gone all in and currently finishing off the baseboard/running area for a DC layout which will run right around my office at home, a 4m x 3m room. I've been sorting the wheat from the chaff, but delighted to find all the locos run, and currently doing a full service on them all. Whilst there is a wealth of advice out there which I have already been busily absorbing, I've no doubt I'll have some questions as the build develops. Looking forward to engaging with you all.