Salmotrutta

It's really so that when I run them both they don't have the same numbering. Looking at the 1957 numbering they would be equivalent to class 4 diesels so G1 to G1999. Thanks for getting me started on this...:)

I have the black BR and green BR twin pack in DCC sound. I think they could be improved by giving them a proper number rather than "GT3" and maybe name plates - perhaps "Sir Frank Whittle". Anyone have an idea as to what numbering system they would have been allocated had they ever gone into service?

Just got my green Fell DCC sound and I'm very happy with it, especially how the engines come on stream as the model speeds up. There may be some inaccuracies but I would never get around to building one to this quality so it's great to have the opportunity to have it. It's a nice talking point with visitors - especially after seeing the film about its unusual engine layout.

All mine are electro frog. I don't think that they ever made insulfrog versions but I haven't bought any for many years

Probably easier to make your own using steel wire, some Sommerfeldt plastic isolators and some insulation stripped from wire for the thicker bits. Not to mention cheaper!

Does "W H" mean "wireless Hornby"?

Welcome to the wonderful world of HOm! Although I use PECO for my main layout I have a small show layout that uses Tillig TT set track https://www.tillig.com/Bettungsgleissysteme.html You have to remove the capacitors under the track if you use DCC (there are some on some straights) but it does have the advantage of being able to play about with different layouts and also the curves are fixed radius so you don't have to bend up flexitrack. Just a thought!

I'm not sure if this helps but here's the instruction sheet: https://www.bemo-modellbahn.de/fileadmin/bemo/files/produktblaetter/1269_000_903.pdf The circuit board is the one designed for a 2 function decoder; the 6-pin ones. However if you get an ESU 59610 LokPilot 5 DCC/MM/SX/M4, 8-pin NEM652 then this has AUX 1 and AUX 2 outputs as well as the blue U+ which you can use for interior lighting. It means you can have separately switched lighting in the front and rear of the coach.

I hear that they are not all what they are cracked up to be quality wise...

As my boss used to say - "it's all good fun if you don't weaken".

That's more than a digital vernier calliper on eBay!

Interesting that the track is code 75 - I would have thought that it didn't have to accommodate the old Triang flanges as they would be too deep to run on it anyway, and that users would be using more modern wheelsets. But I guess that they err on the side of some commercial back to back measurements being out of specification. Useful tip about the shims.

I won't be getting one now - the postage to the US is horrific - total is Euro 360! I'll have to see if there is something similar this side of the pond....

I got a mail directly from Train_Sfe: DESHALB BIETEN WIR IHNEN VOM 21.04. - 03.05.2021 UNSEREN MESSERABATT ONLINE AN15% RABATT AUF ALLES* *weitere Rabatte finden in dieser Zeit keine Anwendung

What length is the Train Safe for the APT? They have 15% off at the moment so I'm thinking of getting one. (Too lazy to get mine out of its box...)

Live chassis was the most common way to pick up in the DC days- at least all the Triang, Hornby and Wrenn stuff did. I have also a number of BEMO Swiss outline locos that do as well. Not a lot more difficult than installing in a isolated chassis as long as you can isolate the motor entirely and watch out for short circuits against the chassis. Surprised it ran on DC if the chip is dead. The blue wire on that chip is not usually used with a live chassis install, it's usually supplying the (+) to lights and other functions in an isolated install. Maybe that's floating around and causing problems? Might be worth taking that chip off and seeing if it works on DCC when not on the loco, or re-setting by writing to CV8. Look it up on the LENZ website to see what you have to write into CV8. Smoke units take a fair bit of current so I would be surprised if it worked off the white wire which is for a bulb! Are you sure it is going to the smoke unit and not to the front light? Some installs use a small relay from one of the AUX outputs of the decoder to fire up the smoke unit from track power - which also has the advantage that the smoke can be synchronised by programming the chip.

Recently converted a LEMANCO brass EMU to DCC. Here's a few pointers for anyone else contemplating such a task! 1802860517_LEMANCO_ABDe4003_instructions_withmorephotos.docx

As I live in the USA a "rubber" is something else entirely. When I ask for a track rubber I usually get a response like "you planning to lay some track"....

I have the metal snowplough and the box van BEMO offerings. They do a good job but you have to clean off the rubber on the bottom with some meths or similar. (But be careful as it can remove the lettering..). The box car coupling pins that attach the coupler to the chassis are not up to the job so I replaced one of them with a small screw. Most of the Bo-Bo locomotives can handle both at the same time. I find I have to still use a track rubber on some places; usually where there is a bump at a rail break or where I have a soldered feed. Even if I can't feel a bump at these points there still seems to be a black mark there; one of life's mysteries I guess...

One of my friends calls them "Preiserlings".

Link to document showing how to do it: https://1drv.ms/w/s!AtaUaZ7zC0LDhNNqtuHVFyyTVBSsoA?e=83gwPx It's a work-in-progress but all the pictures should give folks a head start.

Completed train. Digital sound, LED lights independently switchable. In action

Long shot but maybe the Broad Gauge Society might know something about it http://www.broadgauge.org.uk/about/bgs_contacts.html . It looks rather too grand for a mere branch line; perhaps it's a cast-off from one of larger stations elsewhere on the GWR?

Interestingly here in the US I saw them using a giant vacuum cleaner truck to dig out a hole in the street. So art imitating life I guess (or vice versa)

Yes you are correct - although it seemed to work OK with just the two driving trailers. I have started the loco conversion and will post it here when it's done. I have step by step pictures including how to take the bogies apart: that's a difficult job too without any instructions! I have yet to disembowel the driving trailer and coaches and find what wiring horrors await!