It's really the electrical and mechanical side I could do with some help on, from basics such as how easy it is to solder wires to the track without melting it & does Peco Z Gauge track work with the Busch setrack, to how the DCC system works and whether anyone's developed a more flexible system of coupling vehicles together.
I am currently building a brickworks micro-layout using HOf track and mechanisms. I have used a mixture of Busch turnouts and hand built plain track (2mm finescale copper clads and Peco code 60 "Z scale" rail), the Peco rail is a slightly different profile to the Busch but is compatible. I have had no problems with the Busch sleepers melting during soldering.
On the hand built track I have used the DCC Concepts "Power Base" system to lay under the track, this works just as well as the Busch track under test, despite being slightly further from the loco's magnet. This could equally be used with Marklin or Peco Z scale track or the slightly nicer looking but expensive PMT Technomodel HOf track, as the track is just glued to the top of the metal plates which are then hidden under scenery.
The Busch train is running on 3V (!) and requires a special controller. The Busch power pack does not allow for a speed control, just forward or reverse. Busch offers a DCC decoder, which is wired between your command station and the track, not put in the loco. The locos can be equipped with one of those tiny Z scale decoders, but you need to hardwire them. Performance is brilliant.
The points have been "points" for criticism. The point levers are known to be too fragile and can break off easily.
I had looked at the Busch "DCC decoder" and rejected it, as it ignores most of the advantages of DCC by essentially applying 3v DC to the track! I was planning to install CT Electronik micro decoders in my locos - but haven't done so yet, but will need to shortly as the layout is getting nearer completion. I'd be interested to know if anyone else has done this? Are the tiny 3v motors Busch uses coreless or standard motors (and therefore need different settings in the decoder)? If anyone has done this have they just relied on the max voltage regulation in CV5 or have they installed a voltage dropping resistor / voltage divider circuit?
In terms of the Busch points I have also found the levers and tie bars fragile. I have attempted to overcome this by powering them under the baseboard by Fawn Electronics Little Jemmy motors - these have a clutch mechanism to prevent undue stress on the fragile plastic tie bar, as well as having a micro switch for frog polarity switching. Time will tell how effective this has been!
Busch Feldbahn - anyone with practical experience of this?
in Narrow Gauge Modelling
Posted
I am currently building a brickworks micro-layout using HOf track and mechanisms. I have used a mixture of Busch turnouts and hand built plain track (2mm finescale copper clads and Peco code 60 "Z scale" rail), the Peco rail is a slightly different profile to the Busch but is compatible. I have had no problems with the Busch sleepers melting during soldering.
On the hand built track I have used the DCC Concepts "Power Base" system to lay under the track, this works just as well as the Busch track under test, despite being slightly further from the loco's magnet. This could equally be used with Marklin or Peco Z scale track or the slightly nicer looking but expensive PMT Technomodel HOf track, as the track is just glued to the top of the metal plates which are then hidden under scenery.
I had looked at the Busch "DCC decoder" and rejected it, as it ignores most of the advantages of DCC by essentially applying 3v DC to the track! I was planning to install CT Electronik micro decoders in my locos - but haven't done so yet, but will need to shortly as the layout is getting nearer completion. I'd be interested to know if anyone else has done this? Are the tiny 3v motors Busch uses coreless or standard motors (and therefore need different settings in the decoder)? If anyone has done this have they just relied on the max voltage regulation in CV5 or have they installed a voltage dropping resistor / voltage divider circuit?
In terms of the Busch points I have also found the levers and tie bars fragile. I have attempted to overcome this by powering them under the baseboard by Fawn Electronics Little Jemmy motors - these have a clutch mechanism to prevent undue stress on the fragile plastic tie bar, as well as having a micro switch for frog polarity switching. Time will tell how effective this has been!
James