Brian

Can you explain ideally with a drawing if possible as to how do you use Latching Relays with Servos?

There is an ESU Switch Pilot Extension unit that plugs into the Switch Pilot Servo and the extension unit offers outputs that can feed panel LEDs or frog switching etc Example Extension

Hi For the point motors common return consider using 32/0.2mm wire which is roughly equal to 1.0mm2 or 17AWG. This larger size will ensure two or more solenoid motors can move together i.e. a cross-over pair of points. This common motor return connects to the CDUs Output negative terminal. All the motors returns join onto this one wire. Positive CDU Output going to all the point switches middle tabs. For the two feeds to each point motor from the switches outer tabs consider using 16/0.2mm which is roughly equal to 0.5mm2 or 20AWG. Where two motors move together, I recommend taking each motors two feed (operation) wires back to the switches tabs (or a terminal block located near the switch) rather than linking from one motor to the other, as if linked the first motor tends to "grab" all the power and the second one is left with little or no power if they are wired in parallel motor to motor. Try to keep the four wires (two to each motor) as near as equal length as practical. There is some guidance on my web site which may help for solenoid wiring. Just scroll through the whole section. Link to item 😄

Many decoders are reset to manufacturers default settings by entering CV8 and then a value of 8. Check the decoder manual paper version or go online and it will tell you more details. Generally.... Place the loco onto the Programming track and select on the PA the Prog button and select the Prog track option and press Enter, scroll though the options by pressing Enter until CV appears. Now enter 8 by pressing button 8 and press Enter, followed by another press of the 8 (assuming 8 and 8 are the decoder reset values). Then press enter. This should write to the decoder a reset command and the decoder should revert to as manufactured with an address number of 03. Sometimes you may have to do this more than once to gain a reset. Once completed press Enter until the display reverts to normal mode.

It is also worth checking and if needs be adjusting the problem loco(s) back to back dimensions, as if too wide can lead to the metal wheel rim being able to touch both rails at the vee crossing.

Hi This article may offer you the solution? Link to item Just scroll down a fraction. This has been mentioned above too. 😉

Pleased to read its working as designed. 😊 Yes diodes are 'one way valves' for electron flow.

How many pins has the relay got. 8 its a bidirectional latching relay. 10 pins and its a twin coil latching relay. If it has 8 it will need reverse polarity applied to pins 1 and 16 to unlatch it i.e. apply positive to pin 1 and negative to pin 16 to latch the relay. Then apply positive to pin 16 and negative to pin 1 to unlatch it. IMO a twin coil latching relay is far easier to wire into a solenoid motor circuit

This is a DCC question not a DC one, on DC separate controller feeds are often used for different tracks entering the DS. On a DCC layout using an Insulated double slip then no IRJs are needed! All that is needed for best performance is a pair of dropper wires attached to the outer stock rails of the DS.

Double sided Sticky Fixers are a simple option, as too is using a cable tie (as mentioned above) around a bracing timber or drill a hole in a timber brace to allow the tie to pass through and then around the board.

Hi The H&M Duette is suitable for Track common return. What you cannot do is connect either of the uncontrolled outputs - 12v DC and 16v AC to the common return. Reason is the Duette uses a dual wound transformer. One half of the output windings of the transformer feeds Track 1 controller and the 12v DC uncontrolled. The other half of the windings feed Track 2 controller and also the 16v AC uncontrolled. If either of the uncontrolled outputs were to be connected to the track common return it would cause a short circuit! The "Rule" of Common return is that whatever connects onto the common return wire it MUST be fed from totally separate transformer secondary windings or separate power supplies.

You will have what is known as a Reverse Loop caused by the crossover point(s). On a DCC layout this can be overcome by making a section of track isolated from the rest by fitting at least four Insulated Rail Joiners (IRJs) - 2 IRJs at each end of the isolated section and the section being longer than the longest complete train to run over the section - Train = loco and all carriages or wagons. Then the isolated section is feed form the output or a Reverse Loop module and the input to the module comes from the DCC Bus or DCC powered rails, Then the section automatically flips the rail power to match one end of the loop to the DCC powered rails. It can also be done by using a switch too. But personally, I prefer the automated loop method. A sketch of your plan would help in showing where the section could be fitted. Edit...Spelling error corrected

Asking "What is the Best currently available DCC system" is akin to asking What is the best car to buy? You will get answers from everyone that theirs or the next generation one is the Bees Knees. IMO the only way to find a system that suits you (not everyone else) is to go and try as many as possible before you part with yourhard earned. Somewhere like a MR exhibition where a DCC supplier has a stall is often a good starting place. Coastal DCC tend to have stalls at some shows (Unsure if they offer viewings at their premises though?) Digitrains and several other retailers all offer tests before you buy in store, but be a little cautious, as some retailers may well will promote the brand that they sell, which may not be the best for you!

It doesn't say Gaugemaster cannot repair earlier Prodigy units. It says they will try but it may come at a cost if they do not have the older parts needed. IMO still worth send it to them if all else fails to get it working. GM will always advise of any repair costs before commencing a repair. That can them be accepted or declined. It's worth remembering that GM do not make the Prodigy range, they are imported and rebadged Model Rectifier Corporation (MRC) devices manufactured in the USA.

Initially try unplugging then reconnecting the lead a couple of times, if that doesn't clear the problem and assuming its a Gaugemaster one rather than a self imported MRC version, I would contact Gaugemaster and seek their onion, especially about returning it to them for repair or replacement. Edit to correct typo.