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47375

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Posts posted by 47375

  1. I have purchased 55019 / 975042 in NSE but not 100% sure if the colours are right as it looks like it should have the NSE red cantrail line to match the Hatton NSE 121 and maybe a black roof. It’s hard to find too many photos of it in nse with a headlight that is definitive enough to tell if the cantrail is correct or should nse red 

  2. HI All

     

    I just wondered, Does anyone know the complete list of 33s please that will be releases or is it just 33114 and the Burma Star?

     

    If nothing else, 114 is a good addition, as thats going for silly money like a few people have said already

    Thanks

    Mark

  3. These really do look lovely models, hope your all enjoying them. Arriva one in the photo below looks great.

     

    I just wondered what you get in the detail pack, if it pipes and multi jumpers? are there any front steps on each corner?

     

    Cheers

    Mark

  4. If you're working in N/2mm (you haven't indicated) then N Brass Lococ have a good range.

     

    G

    Sorry I should have said it's OO gauge....

    Assuming that you're working in 4mm I can heartilly recommend Lanarkshire Model Supplies, both from quality of products and service.

     

    Tim T

    Thanks Tim, I have ordered a couple of packs to try them

  5. Since when?

    I was chatting to the owner at DEMU Showcase on June 2nd & he told me that they were still doing unsprung but sprung had become too expensive to produce.

    Maybe a month ago, I think the lady from A1 is called Jane and she told me I had the last two packs of Loco buffers and that they wouldn't be doing any more.

  6. Hi all

     

    Has anyone been able to contact Shawplan recently? I have sent two emails and tried ringing quite a few times on different days (within his opening hours) but never get a reply. Maybe it's just me but I find it near impossible to get anything from them

  7. I used to have a similar issue until I asked for help on RMWeb, I now either apply gloss varnish or klears floor polish to make the side shined, apply the transfers, paint on some decal fix and then apply a light dusting of testers dull coat, the transfer backing is then totally transparent... this method works brilliant for Rail Tec transfers and the backing always disappears, I normally leave decal fix on for 30 - 60 seconds to not melt it too much etc

     

    I recently did a respray of a 47802 and used R3spray gloss DRS blue to avoid the need of applying gloss varnish.

  8. Just wondered if anyone who has received a 68001 Ltd Ed would be kind enough to put a couple of photos up of what you get etc, is it different to a standard loco, do you get a certificate as well?

     

    Shame about the lack of outter box hopefully everyone gets their locos safely

     

    Thanks

    Mark

  9. Thanks Andy, I cannot see anything that looks snapped, I have the buffer, the collar and the spring. It looks like it should be a push fit, but won't stay in. Dapol contacted and the man who knows how they fit... only works on Thursdays. Anybody know?

    It looks like the buffer shanks are mounded to the beam, so assume you must have to push the spring into the head and it must push on something like that judging by looking at the photos and my model with them intact.... Must be a small lug it pushes over to stop it springing right the way off?

     

    Using a magnifying glass looking where the buffer fits into the beam, when you press it in and out I cannot see a retaining ring on the back like you get with Hornby 56 type thing, so it must push on in the correct order unless its broken.

    • Like 1
  10. Mine DRS pair are sat somewhere in cheam awaiting picking up tommorow after school! im excited but also praying i got off lucky, On that note, does the glue debonder damage the paintwork when removing nameplates, has anyone tried?

     

    Ben

    I haven't tried de-bonder (not sure if it would damage the body work as the paint did seem to come off each behind the nameplate I removed), I have a spare DRS 68 I don't want which has a tiny bit of glue and was going to try the warm water on a cocktail stick trick, or ping the plate off and move it up a tiny amount but haven't got round to it yet as the plates look quite well stuck on.

  11. Good grief! And I thought mine was bad! How did you get the plate off? I'm nervious to try!

    I used the sharp point of a scalpel just under one end and pulled it towards me without levering to avoid damaging body and it started to move away easily.

     

    Normally when a new model loco arrives in the post you look forward to opening the box, however with this I was apprehensive on what I was going to find. Part of the reason why I pulled the plate off was one it looked awful and two, I was annoyed the 2nd 68 i'd ordered arrived with a problem with the nameplates! And before I knew what I was going to do with it, I was removing the plate.

     

    Its a risk though as I could have ruined the body I guess.

  12. Talking of wonky plates I ordered another 68005 so I could send my gluey one back and it arrived like this

     

    3EB13D0A-3227-4016-BF21-18F8B2F7FA03_zps

     

    I used a scalpel blade to ping the plate off, was a bit worried it might pull a load of paint off but luckily it was just the paint directly under the plate

     

    12792D22-1898-4B36-8102-A0DDBE796542_zps

     

    7BF12B7D-4D45-4788-B78B-5FA76B053262_zps

     

    I fitted a 21 pin Bachmann 36-554 decoder as it was all I had spare and it's a lovely runner, creeps along and i think it's the best OO gauge loco I've ever purchased if you ignore issue with the wonky plates! Maybe someone sticking the etched plate on was sat on a hill

    • Like 2
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