Mike Todd

Kernow have kindly advised me as follows :  The standard model will only run on DC, but you won’t get any sounds at all from it. You can only get sounds from a standard model by installing a DCC sound decoder (which we don’t sell separately) or by buying a DCC sound fitted version in the first place.   The DCC sound fitted model will run on DC and DCC. However only basic chuff sounds will be heard on DC and the overall top speed will be less than on DCC. Approx     4 volts are required to produce the sound and you can’ t make the whistle or other additional sounds work.

( 97 remains jerky at slow speed despite careful examination, lubrication and running in over 2 hours.)

1 hour ago, Harlequin said:

What kind of controller are you using, Mike?

 

Standard Gaugemaster, U and WS.

97 now safely received, setting yet another high standard for RTR !

Slow running is a little uneven at present in time with the valve gear despite lubrication and running in, visually checked and nothing appears out of alignment. Will continue with more running in,

Dumb question : DC running still requires a decoder for sound ??

I experienced the same problems with my class 40 and fitted additional phosphor bronze pick up wires from the existing bogie bus to the back of the wheels. One bogie was sufficient for smooth running but I will repeat the work on the other …. one day soon !

Now … why didn’t I think of that ?

LED now fitted and has solved the problem, cheers and many thanks !

Mike.

Spy camera now fitted and working on its own Wi-Fi to local I-phone. Clear view now of fiddle …. But the camera infra red interferes with the Irdot infra red creating a false signal. Relying meanwhile on the screen view for positioning of stock, instead of the Irdot, back to the drawing board !

Thanks for all your useful replies and comments, this started a search on Amazon where 'also viewed' (as they do) the following :

Mini Spy Hidden Cameras For Home Security 4K HD Wide Angle Wireless WiFi Small Nanny Cam Indoor Micro Surveillance Cameras With APP/Motion Detection/N

which is now on order, hope this will do the trick !

Has anyone had success with a Wi-Fi video camera to display an ‘out of sight’ fiddle yard for use with kadee uncoupling. It has to be very compact yet able to produce a clear image on an I-pad, Irdots provide a stop position but I require confirmation that uncoupling has taken place.

I said I would finish it one day !

It has taken a while …. but I am happy with the final result, all working well !

Thanks for watching.

Mike.

(Upside down  -  why ?)

Absolute Aspects. …  not cheap but highly recommended, a satisfied customer.

Going slightly off topic, does anyone remember the model railway at Hamley’s of Regent Street in London probably in the early/mid 1950’s. There was a large sweeping staircase up to the first floor and the atrium was surrounded by a beautiful 4mm scale railway, fully scened, probably mostly hand made. It held my imagination even though, if I remember correctly, it was only a single line roundy roundy. Less is more, as they say.

I bought one 5+ years ago, TVR spec., detailed it with coal, crew, 3 link couplings, added weathering then ran it in on a rolling road.  When brought up to speed for the first time, it burnt out and has been a showcase model ever since.  I seem to remember a replacement PCB was being offered ....

Congratulations to Zorcan for devising and writing an excellent procedure for uncoupling Kadees, I have had total success with my similar attempt. Firstly, the mentioned suppliers for both the magnets and the tinplate delivered within 24 hours, I chose to excavate from below existing track (Peco OO code 70) through the sundeala and cork as tracklaying and ballasting were complete. My uncoupler is fitted towards the end of a goods siding where only trucks will be placed. I used plasticard instead of Daler board. Testing has been totally successful with both local and delayed uncoupling, a few trucks move very slightly under the influence of the strong magnets but dc locos are not affected and all is well on a 6 foot radius curve. The end result : inexpensive positive operation without ugly visible plates, no electrics, no unwanted uncoupling whilst slow shunting.

I bought a similar loco (is it HO ??) some time ago. After running in on a dc rolling road, I brought it up to full speed briefly .... and it burnt out ! I seem to remember there was a replacement pcb available, mine remains a static model with real coal, crew and some weathering, probably any guarantee now invalid.

This is my control panel for WESTMORE, nearing completion one of these days ! Perhaps I would go for DCC if I was starting again, but I like the levers and switches. Assistance appreciated from Modratec, Gaugemaster, MSE and others.