Right Away

DCC is really what you make it and what you want it to do. At it's simplest, the ability to operate trains independently without the need of isolating sections is a very strong selling point. Indeed, it was this very feature that went a long way in convincing me to use DCC when my layout was being drawn up 13 years ago. My Lenz system is probably showing its age when compared to what is available nowadays but it has proved itself over time. Some people may allure to the bells and whistles of the latest tech but from a personal point, observing the trains and their environs is preferable to concentrating on a display screen. There is no "specialist knowledge' required to start off in DCC, but simple expedients such as providing feeds to every section (piece) of track together with preferably switched polarity to turnout (point) frogs, and keeping the track clean will ensure smooth running. Any advanced skill, if so required can be gradually achieved once you are comfortable operating the system.

The Bachmann Fairburn will also benefit visually with the addition of front footsteps; this one has home made footsteps and SR smokebox lamp irons. (Will get round to replacing those glued on plastic route discs for removable etched brass ones eventually).

Agree with your remark about the 8F loco to tender distance. Having generous track curvature, I produced a replacement drawbar from thin brass strip; in the case of a Fowler tender this new drawbar must replicate the angles of the factory fitted version. (Note: Tension locks have also been modified for closer coupling of vehicles)

For anyone’s interest, I settled on an Atten ST-1016, does the job and not too noisy at all. https://www.switchelectronics.co.uk/products/desktop-solder-fume-extractor-absorber-st-1016 Moderators, can close this now if you wish. RA

That Bulleid oil bath …….! Seriously though, the problem does look as if it might be related to the paint finish Hornby use on metal bodies as whenever I’ve had the misfortune to transfer oil to a plastic body from any manufacturer, a gentle wipe with a tissue or cotton bud moistened with a very minute dab of washing up liquid always resolves. (It also works well on crudded up mobile phone screens). It would be interesting to hear from others with afflicted models and of their solutions.

Could any member recommend a free standing solder fume fan/extractor which is reasonably quiet in operation and inexpensive. People have commented on unfavourable noise levels on some and that is something I’m looking to avoid.

Hi Spamcan61, my usual rosin-cored lead-free solder is fine for occasional electrical work. Seeking to do more prolonged work, I have been advised to use a solder that is free of both. Online searches show that such solder is available but it is relatively expensive.

Could any member recommend a “Lead Free-Rosin Free” solder which would be suitable for brass modelling tasks, etchings and small kits etc. Similarly, a Rosin-Free flux. The reason for the “safer” specs is because of a respiratory condition. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Does this help…..? Photo dated August ‘61.

Both. I lay new track and give it an all over “base” colour, followed by ballasting, finally selectively spraying (with airbrush) to represent the build up of differing levels of grime, brake dust etc where appropriate. I gently clean rail heads between each process to avoid a thick build up of paint and adhesive at the end. Reference to good quality colour photographs can be helpful in achieving your final result but beware of any colour cast which can give an inappropriate tint.

I had some initial reservation in 2022 about buying the Hornby R3564 as their “latest” Stanier 8F, a class of engine I had not owned before. As previously mentioned, had it not been for a very reasonable asking price and the news of a forthcoming, new (er expensive!) Black Five and fearing which might follow regarding a possible overdue, newly tooled and equally pricey 8F, I would have forgone the purchase. However prototypical of this particular engine, I feel a Fowler tender gives a disproportionate appearance of size to the ensemble from whichever viewpoint it is seen. I really required a Stanier tender which I was unable to source at the time, pending a change of locomotive identity. I undertook to try and improve the Fowler version by trimming at a slight angle the top edges of the tender sides and rear behind the coal bunker to give an illusion of reduced thickness, where it is particularly prominent. Another visual enhancement was the fitting of a shortened drawbar made from brass strip, bringing the tender much closer to the engine. I followed the angles of the original “cranked” drawbar when forming the new, shorter brass version and then drilled the pivot holes. The grinding away of some of the leading truck casting has been mentioned previously. Given weathering and a few other tweaks, the model gives a reasonably acceptable appearance of a “foreigner” when working in on a freight from the LMR on my BR (SR) railway.

Perhaps not to everyone’s taste, for convenience I compiled folders entitled “Bachmann Sheets”, “Dapol Sheets”, “EFE Sheets” and “Hornby Sheets” containing the Service Sheets for my items which I can access on iPad and iPhone, the latter always being at hand. Hornby’s can be a bit “hit and miss”, as not every release seems to have a corresponding sheet, some seemingly being unavailable.

Please see close up of R3564, purchased Spring 2022. (If I can dig the box out of the attic later, I’ll check the supplied sheet.)

Very strongly agree. I attacked mine with a Dremel in an attempt to disguise it.

My “H” 0-4-4T (one of the first releases) was quite reluctant to move at times when first received, requiring the odd nudge into motion. I discovered by loosening slightly, the four motor top housing screws the problem went away. I cut out and placed a thin “gasket” of paper around under the face of the motor top housing which has the effect of raising it very minutely. Clearly, as originally fitted, the top housing was fouling but this simple mod has proved most successful.