Grizz

Mmmmm well not too bad so far, but I guess as with all these things it’s all in the details.

The bits highlighted in red will be removed and filled. Then it’s the various foot boards, door handles, grab handles and etc.

Bloodnok your work has inspired me to have a go at a couple of projects I’ve always wanted to do. Like quite a lot of people over the years I’ve amassed a load of old Airfix, Mainline, Dapol and Hornby MK2 air con coaches. With some spares I want to apply a massive dose of RULE 1. 
 

I always wanted BR to have built a MK2 Air Con Full Brake (BG) for the England, Scotland and Wales network. Also a generator coach like was built for Irish railways.
 

And finally a MK2 sleeper coach.

I’ve already had a go at converting a Lima Mk2F FO into a sleeper, which I’m quite pleased with so far, but I’d like to have a go using the old MK2D body shells. 
 

With the full brake I’ll probably keep it full length rather than shorten it like the MK1 BG. 

The off cuts should give me 2 ends with 4 windows each side, which when glued together should end up with a toilet window on diagonally opposite sides. 

So here goes with the first two candidates…2 BSOs.

I tried that white polystyrene some years ago on one of my old layouts but found that it wasn't easy to sculpt to the long shallow and gradual contours I needed. Even with a hot wire cutting device. I also heard that over time it degrades wiring but I don't know how true that is. 

The dense 'Cellotex' The Q detailed is great stuff. I've used it loads of time and fixed it down with lashings of PVA. It cuts smoothly with Stanley knife blades and using the 50mm ish sheets you can cut both sides with little mess to get thin sections. 

There is also some really dense insulation called 'Floormate'. Available in various thicknesses, light weight,  it carves quite well. Usually light blue in colour. Takes PVA well. 

For the covering finishing material, having experimented with Polyfiller, bonding plaster and various other products, I have settled on pre mixed tile adhesive, it dries quite quickly and goes of like rock.. I usually add a water based or acrylic light earth paint to it prior to plastering it on the Cellotex and forming the desired land scape. That way if there is any shrinkage or cracking the colour remains consistent and it is not so obvious. It also carves well.

I used the Cellotex and tile adhesive method on the chalk quarry. Obviously less precolouring required on the chalk.

Thanks so much for posting this great 'how to do it'! I have had to do this a couple of times and have just bought another MK1 with 'glazing loose inside the body'. I couldn't remember all the details of how I did the previous ones, you make it easy to understand and simple to follow. Many thanks

ATB Grizz