Jitmen

1 hour ago, adb968008 said:

May need to lift the keeper plate and resit the wheel if just the wheel shifted, though i’d want to understand why (maybe a stripped gear or something loose thats allowing the wheel to shift).

 

if the one crank has shifted on its axle, you may need to requarter them, then consider gluing the crank down after testing.

 

 

 

 

Not sure how to do that if I’m honest? 

14 minutes ago, Roy Langridge said:

Are the rods ok on the otherside? If so, one wheel has shifted on its axle. 

 

Roy

Both sides shifted 

On 07/11/2022 at 17:43, ColinB said:

It is quite easy to get it apart, trouble is everything is held on by self tapping screws, even Hornby realised in the end that proper parallel thread screws are needed when screwing into metal. Fortunately the drivers cabs although glued on do not need to be removed, I only did it to make it easier for routing wires. No my issue is that the design looks rushed, they have used a plastic clip to hold the wire for the pickups in place but it is not really needed and means if you take the "base keeper plate" off , there is a more than even chance of snapping the thin wire. If they hadn't bothered you could remove the connector on the PCB for the pickups and that would give you enough room to pull the base keeper plate away from the bottom of the loco. I have even had the con rods get out of sync when the loco derailed. I think the issue is that the wheels are not held on that tightly by the splines on the axles so there is a tendency for them to move out of sync.

How do you fix it when it’s out of sync, mines just done that ?

KR mucked my order up and gave refund so I bought one of a private seller on Facebook and on second run today it stopped running as rod went out of sink and I can’t seem to fix it ? 

Mine never arrived due to confusion over what colour I ordered, when I politely complained KR cancelled my order, sent me a rude email and gave me a refund to a card I no longer have, so I’ve no model or refund, nice models but poor customer service 

Just paid last instalment can't wait for model 

Will the apt-e run on radius two curves? 

I've just ordered one of Hattons only £74 ,one person on Facebook said his chip blew is this a common problem?

I see Durham trains of Stanley are bringing out apt-p in n-gauge and oo

APT-E looking good and Shildon the other week next to BR class 71

Thanks for clearing that up Kit

I stand corrected there was the 381 series train in 1973 that tilted ,my apologies to our American friends

Watched a programme on quest last night about Japanese railways claiming they invented the tilting train!

Btw it was an American made show so you know how they like to distort history

Sad to hear Sandra is leaving Locomotion models.

Watched a train program tonight on quest about the Canadian service with an interview with rapido's Jason.

Is there any progress on the hst prototype?

Well deserved winner,love my apt-e model

Made my own train safe for about £5

Bound to happen now I have finished building one for 'Sandhole' of this site. What do you all see in this engine???????????

 

fell.jpg

 

Looks great,I love ugly unusual trains.

Mike Wiltshire

Off topic,any chance of a rapido fell locomotive?

Love kato unitrak,sets up and runs no problems.I have 00 and n gauge.I would recommend using a kato power pack also as it's easier to connect, you can also add power points.

Glad to hear she's o.k Jitmen, I'm guessing like me a floor layout, if and when possible, I've been close myself especially when there running silent, you really don't hear the thing coming, then burgger, where did you come from???

 

2016 has been a good year, from me and the twins Merry Dieselmas and a Happy Turbine year!!!

 

Joking aside, Wishing all of you on the RMWeb, Rapido Trains Jason Bill, Dan, Locomotion, and Charlie, Bif, Simon, Merry Christmas, and a Happy New Year, All the best for 2017, And keep them wheels rolling,rolling,rolling

 

Thanks Johnks ,once the shaft was clear I got in no problem,train now back together,only took 5 minutes,cheers mate for advice you've saved me a lot time and money

Jitmen

These images are from 47137's posts 3312 & 3317 on page 133 of this fourm

 

apt drive.jpg

 

I have labelled most of the relevant parts

 

The drive train from the motor

 

The motor yoke clips onto the universal

that universal clips into the drive shaft outer which slides over the drive shaft inner which clips onto the other universal,

which clips into the gear tower yoke

 

The universals at a small x shaped part that look and function the same as a universal joint in a cars tail shaft

 

The lower image shows 47137's Apt that came with an improperly fitter universal as shown by the not ok arrow

 

The drive shafts should come apart at either universal without to much force

 

I believe that these parts are made of a durable, slippery plastic, possibly Delron (the same stuff that Athearn & others use in their drive trains, bogies, etc)

 

If it was me I would pop the drive shaft inner off it's universal and slide it out of the drive shaft outer

It wont matter if the universal remains connected to the drive shaft or the bogie tower

It can be very fiddley working in the available space

If you don't feel confident separating the drive shaft this way then it might be better to remove the motor as described earlier

 

That should give enough room to replace the offending part

Reverse the procedure to assembly the drive shaft

 

If you haven't fixed your apt yet then I hope that this may help

 

John 

 

Ps all this assume that the part that I have marked as the offending part is the offending part

I can see what I have to do but I don't know how to safely move motor to get access?