spice1977

Donated. Good luck to all but most importantly that we raise loads for the NHS! I never win anything but in this case I won't mind.

I had several go pop (TTS). I found that by using kapton tape they overheated so now I only wrap it in kapton tape for whilst i am working on the chip ie changing the speaker etc. I make sure wherever I place the chip that i use kapton tape to make sure its safe to place the decoder, unwrap the tape from around the chip then use some black tack under the wires to hold the chip in place - this means sufficient airflow to remove heat from the chip but it is secured in place - just fitted one yesterday with Richards double iphone speakers wired up with a zimo dumbo in a 66 (my last in stock too so need to buy more!). For TTS or other chips that do not come ready protected I use an ESD wrist strap.

My four arrived this morning - they look very impressive!

I quite like Jamie Goodmans Class 50 on Loksound. I also like YouChoos on Zimo, but these are cheap and cheerful models so getting cheap and cheerful chips lol. Yes I saw that recommendation tooo - its a good idea!

I've got two on order and will be fitting with megabass speakers - I have heard they are very good.

My spray equipment consists of an Iwata Neo airbrush, Sparmax compressor and various accessories. I mix my paints in small batches in glass jars - just enough to complete what I am doing. I use a spray booth as you can see (I know I need a new filter!)

And I've now run out of thinners and airbrush cleaner so play has come to a stop - damn!

Another I have ongoing is a Hornby Class 56 currently sat in Colas Orange/Yellow as I need to steel myself into being brave to do the black roof where it could all go wrong! I also need to source new grills for this model as they are missing - tempted to get a cheap body to scavenge them off it! This one has been on the back burner for well over a year now. As has the prototype HST currently sat in primer with the white metal noses grafted on - it requires further filler and sanding.

As you can see in the background of the first post there is also an HST set in progress too. I recently sold my NMT Hyabusa set along with four poorly painted coaches - my first attempt and using Humbrol Sunshine Yellow. This rake was originally going to be gWr LA15 and had been sprayed as such but then I bought a full rake brand new so these were surplus to requirements and stripped back to the bare plastic. Lima wise they are the 2 Class 43's and the buffet and TSO. The two TGS and further buffet are Hornby which are currently on their way to me as I had too many Lima TSO/FO which are remaining in primer for now. Primered using AutoTek plastic primer painting for this has been a cheat - using Halfords Rover Inca Yellow rattle cans - it looks just fine to me. As Hurst models do not have any white metal NMT parts in stock and haven't for a very long time I have opted for PH Designs 3D printed versions from shapeways for the cameras and the upper lights. So until they arrive this project is stalled other than continuing with the coaches. Both HST power cars will be re-motored using motors from the same source as the 50's and fitted with TTS sound. The pantograph car and track recording car will be fitted with representative LED's following guidance from http://s374444733.websitehome.co.uk/class-43nmt/index-intro.htm and new lighting from Black Cat technology. I still need to source a pantograph for that coach, but I am not going to go as far as the source material and fit interiors or fill the windows - they have just been painted over. Transfers again will be Railtec, but in the 2016 configuration for "Digital Railway" although he is currently out of the nameplates I want for the power cars so that will have to wait.

I am also a massive fan of Class 60's and have many in my collection. I recently won one on eBay with none working lighting at a steal - literally just listed (lighting was just a broken wire). I have stripped that using just IPA and it is currently sat in GBRF orange as only done this morning. It looks a bit bright in the photo but its because the door was open and the sun is shining on it - and I lost a door! This will get full sound treatment as all my locos are fitted with sound but I am debating whether to mill the chassis for an EM2 or not.

So I decided to start my own thread for my own modelling musings. Probably wont be updated too often as I go between building the layout and modelling depending on my frame of mind and time available. Currently on the workbench are various projects but the furthest in progression are two Lima Class 50's. I have always been fond of the Hoovers and have had many and sold many in the past since I now model modern image ie Era 9 it was hard to justify keeping them. Then after selling my last one the announcement came that GBRF were respraying two into their colours - so I just had to have them. I baulked at prices charged by some shops for inaccurate resprays and decided to set myself a challenge to create both with sound and lights at a sub £100 cost per loco. So the locos were bought from Hampshire models at £35 each, the lights from Express models at £18, new motors from Strathpeffer Junction at £13 each and TTS decoders at £38 each - so roughly the £100 (ish) I desired to achieve. I started with stripping in Dot3 brake fluid but that wasnt too successful so finished off with IPA - which cleaned it all off, they were then primered using AutoTek plastic primer and left to harden. Paints are from Rainbow Railways and go on a dream when mixed roughly 2 parts paint to 1 part thinners sourced from Direct Train Spares. I decided I didnt want to go full on for detailing so whilst I have removed the cab handrails to be replaced with wire I have left the door rails in place and will pick out with paint pens. Since the below picture I have picked out the cabs, windows, wipers and piping using Matt Black. Transfers when I get around to fitting them are all from Railtec with Steves 3D plates - my preferred supplier for all things decal related.

I tried it on one TTS chip - worked very well until I blew the chip havent tried any others since then but it wasnt down to the stay alive, it was static from me - I now use a soldering band when working with TTS chips to mitigate it and wrap in kapton tape to make it safe to handle afterwards.

Ive fitted one into a Bachmann 08 but not happy with the speaker so I think I'm goign to follow the lead above with the zimo single dumbo - cheers

Yes it is indeed many thanks.

Must admit I do like the Biffa livery - ones on the workbench at the moment. Got my last stubborn DRS Bachie 66 to sell then my next ones will be Hattons me thinks.

I cannot wait for this - paid for mine upfront as its going to be amazing!

I realised I hadn't straight away so I changed my email on the subscription to match the one in use on here. I had to use a different one for the forum as when I first signed up to RMWeb it wouldn't let me use my normal email. So anyway now they are both the same on here and there.

Signed up over a week ago - no confirmation emails etc. I am able to login to view BRM.

Only just noticed this thread - good news for me as I am trying to collect them all for the kids. Managed to get the end of line Thomas, Percy, Edward, Annie & Clarabel and some other coaches but scoffing at the prices some want for the others.

So I have tried the adapter cables and they do not work. So for now until Digikeijs offers support or DCC Concepts come up with a workaround I have connected the sniffer adapter directly to the accessory bus. I have spare switch connections so can connect them and use to power accessory decoders for lighting etc by using only one instead of both switches. The DR5000 is going to power one half of the layout and the DR5033 the other half - at least for now. Eventually I will look into other equipment for both connecting to the Digikeijs units and still creating a switch panel for the kids to use.

If you don't know him he is stickswipe on eBay.

I will take some when my drill bits arrive - here's his instructions for his Class 66 kit. Here's the instructions for the class 66 light set. My light sets have resistors built in. The light set will comprise of - 2 x main light units for fitting to the chassis 2 x top light led units 4 x lighthouse leds for use as headlight lenses. 1mm fibre optic for use with tail light lenses small coloured wires for attaching to the underside of the dcc socket Heat shrink. Here's the instructions for fitting the class 66 dcc light set to the Hornby or Lima model. Take care when removing glazing from Hornby locos. The glue they use is quite strong. The glazing can break easily. 1/ With the loco body still fitted to the chassis -Carefully mark the centres of the marker, head & tail lights using an awl or similar implement. 2/ With a 1mm drill held in a pin vice, pilot drill the top light, headlight & tail light centres.. Ensuring the hole is dead centre. Ensure that the drill goes through the ends of the chassis too ( except don't drill the hole in the chassis for the night time headlight). Remove the loco body from the chassis. 3/ Counter sink the tail light lens holes with a 1.5mm drill. Only go in about a millimetre. Do the same for the top lights. Open out the headlight holes ONLY to 2mm. 4/ Open out the holes in the fronts of the chassis to 1.5mm. Touch up any paintwork before proceeding. 5/ Using the fibre optic supplied, Cut the end nice & flat - file to tidy, then using a lighter briefly heat the end of the optic to enlarge it. Cut to a length of about 10mm & insert into the tail light holes . Fix with a spot of superglue on the inside. Once set, trim flush to the inside of the body. For the top light, Cut a piece of 1mm fibre optic about 25mm long & insert into the top light. ( use a lighter to enlarge the end as per tail lights) 6/ For fitting headlight lenses - cut the tops off the lighthouse led's ( supplied) to about 2-3mm. File the cut end to tidy. Insert these lenses into each headlight hole. ( use a small piece of blue tac to block the end of the 'nightime' headlight - driver's side). 7/ Remove the interior cabs from the chassis. If your loco is dcc ready, connect the small coloured wires ( provided) to their appropriate locations on the bottom of the dcc socket - ensuring no contact with any other pin locations. 8/ Place the light units into the recess at the front of the chassis - you will notice one is deeper than the other - this corresponds to the different depths on the chassis. 9/ With a maplins led tester or dc controller on low output, connect the blue positive wire then connect one of the other colours ( negative). This will light up the light unit to check alignment with the holes. ( should be spot on). Secure light units in place with a spot of superglue on the sides. 10/ Run the light unit wires to the centre of the loco ( where the dcc socket is if fitted.) Tape down to tidy. On the motor side, run the wires over the motor. 11/The top roof light led units are meant to engage on to the fibre optic that's now fitted in the top light holes. Make sure the end of the optic is cut clean & insert into the small hole in the heat shrink for the top light led unit. Make sure the colours of the wires of the top light led units correspond with the coloured wires that light up the white lights on the chassis mounted light units. 12/ Run the top light wires along the top of the body to near the location of the dcc socket. Join the blue wires together & white wires, then yellow wires together. Join the coloured light wires to their appropriate corresponding colours from the dcc socket. 13/ If your loco is not dcc ready, simply join the light unit wires to the similarly coloured function wires on the decoder. See pics attached. 14/ With decoder fitted, lightly place the body on the chassis & test run to ensure that the lighting is correct for the direction of travel. If not - simply swap either the motor wires over ( easiest way) or disconnect the white / yellow wires & swap over. 15/ Once running is correct, refit the body. My only additional note when doing the first holes in hold the loco solidly in your other hand wrapped around the chassis and loco top to stop the chassis moving when you first get through the body. I cannot stress enough to use an LED tester when fitting - his lighting kits are very fine and if you misalign the units with the holes you have made the lighting will not show through correctly. Follow his instructions to the letter though and you cannot even tell they are after market fitted. Jason uses very fine wire so you easily mold it around the chassis and glue in place. You can make the body totally removable by adding a three pin plug and socket - JST or similar. I have fit his lighting kits to 60's, APT, 47's, 31's, 37's and 66's so far and they are very good. He sends full instructions with the purchase (as shown above) and photos if any modifications need making to the cab / body etc and will even fit them if you send him the model and pay extra for it from what I understand. Also his service is far faster than Express models as he only lists what he has in stock ready to send - I have been waiting over a month for class 50 lighting kits from them and at one point had to wait nearly 6 months for some from them. I cannot recommend his kits enough in all honesty.

I've bought six of them. I sold Bachmann Colas and Evening Star and that paid for 4 of them alone. I'm fitting Jason Edmunds lighting kits to all, two Zimo sound decoders, 1 soundtraxx and 3 TTS. All are having EM2 speakers and once done they look just fine to me. Yes the lighting clusters etc are not prototypical on some of them such as Evening Star but the overall finish is very good for a £67 model (price I paid to Rails).

Forgot one controller I had - an NCE Powercab which if I had kept it would have solved all the problems with no additional kit but the only thing I didn't like about it was not touchscreen and it didn't have all the functions on one screen. My DR5000 is connected either via wifi to my mobile using the Z21 app - or via wifi to a laptop using Digitrains Pro which I actually quite like as you can personalise the locos with its picture and function and best of all its free. The laptop is a touchscreen Windows 10 tablet 10 inch screen with keyboard so its small but better than a phone. It will suffice until such time as I want to consider automation or train detection etc. I'm installing a second wifi adapter so the laptop can remain connected to the internet as well as the DR5000 without lots of wiring by using lan as well etc. The advantage of that is the tablet when disconnected from the keyboard is totally portable. I know I could use JRMI for computer control and also a digital panel and it is installed but currently setup for a Sprog 3, but I want the computer screen to literally be free and just show the locos - at the moment the layout is only half built and is a very simple affair overall so it doesn't really need full computer control just yet. I also wanted the turnout control panel to be physically built for the kids to operate without them touching the computer.

Thanks Nigel. On the main documentation for alpha which I've reread this morning it does say the alpha encoder or alpha box can be connected to other systems via an adapter ("If you have another brand of DCC system ...you can use Cobalt a Alpha too. Either by simple track power connection or, as a full system bus addition with the addition of an appropriate “Adapter leads”..") . It is very specific as Cobalt a alpha refers to the main encoder and Cobalt a alpha box refers to the alpha box throughout the manual so in that respect its clear. The Digitrax adapter converts the output from NCE Command Bus to Digitrax loconet so that would appear to be an option - but DCC Concepts stress this hasn't been tested as when I enquired they did not have access to a DR5000 (they have one on order apparently). I really don't want to be the guinea pig that blows a DR5000 lol But the manual then only goes into detail with the alpha box connection - not the encoder which isn't exactly helpful. I'm certainly not spending that amount of money on an alpha box I do not need or want. I may look into the other options you mention depending on price. Option A is easy - just a case of rearranging the wiring on the panel but it limits the control to push button only. Option D is definitely doable and I could sell on the sniffer and encoder to help fund it so a distinct possibility.