Tullygrainey
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Posts posted by Tullygrainey
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21 hours ago, Rugd1022 said:That is astonishingly good, really top notch. How did you go about painting the brickwork on that building - did you paint it brick colour than add the 'white' on top, or did you paint it 'white' then pick out the areas of red brick afterwards...? Either way, it's superb.
Thank you very much. The building is clad in Slater's brick embossed plastic sheet. I brush-painted this with artist's acrylic Titanium White (from a tube) and before the paint had quite hardened, used a fibreglass brush to abrade the paint back to the plastic in the places I wanted the brick to show. It works well and if you overdo it, it's easy to add more paint and go again. The damp stains, mould and general discolouration were added by dry-brushing with suitable shades of grot.
Alan
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End of the dayshift at the stone yard.
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Looking very fine. A great recovery. Those floor monsters are an acquisitive lot. I reckon mine now has enough bits to build its own locomotive.
Regards, Alan
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Brilliant!!
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The next attempt used Hornby spares pack X8834W, Class 28xx 2-8-0 Loco Valve Gear Set. It's a bit large for a small 0-4-0 so there may be better choices. I can't claim credit for this one. I gleaned it from someone else's post on this thread BC (before the crash)
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I've probably posted these photos on this thread before but since a lot of images got lost in the recent crash, here they are again.
I've had a few goes at crossheads on Hornby 0-4-0 chassis. The first attempt used brass rod, tube, scrap brass etch, a valve gear rivet and a bit of soldering. The cylinders are cut from the barrel of a disposable propelling pencil, the sort you buy in supermarkets in packs of 10. These are simply glued to the original chassis. Not very prototypical but it works!
Alan
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4 hours ago, Ruston said:
The Grant, Ritchie is, I suppose, finished. It has taken so long because I ordered some custom lining and lettering decals for this, the cut down Barclay and a secret project, and when they eventually arrived they were not useable so I had to resort to Fox lining. I know some people get some great results with it but I'm not one of them. I also messed it up by applying a weathering wash. I thought the lining was all settled and dry but it wrinkled up in places. The weathering also went a bit TU and the engine ended up being far dirtier than I wanted it to be.
Still looking pretty good though, despite your reservations. I think it's the sort of loco that ought to look pretty scruffy. The attention to detail really brings it to life - the oil cans and the rolled up canvas screens etc. I like it.
Alan
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23 hours ago, brylonscamel said:
Winter light in the far north ..
This is a wonderful image. I can feel the chill in the air!
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Lovely stuff! Definitely worth finishing. All that milled brass looks reassuringly substantial.
Alan
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I hope it's not running as a 2-2-2 in that second photo. It doesn't appear to have any brakes either
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A summer evening on the coal quay. Number 16 hauls the last load as the sun sets.
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Great attention to detail Dave, all of which makes it very convincing. This is shaping up beautifully.
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That's very fine indeed! Where do you source your various detailing bits and pieces Dave?
Alan
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On 20/06/2020 at 06:51, BenNewland said:
I like everything about this loco! 10 out of 10 for ingenuity and craftsmanship. Thanks for showing us how you did it.
Alan
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On 03/06/2020 at 10:57, SweenyTod1 said:I'm very impressed with the cylinders, double slide bars crosshead etc. Where did you source them from? They look so much better than my J93 offering. Are there any suppliers of such components out there as I don't want to buy a complete chassis just to get the motion parts.
Tod
Thanks Tod
I can't claim any originality here. I picked up some of the technique from others in this thread. The sliders and crosshead are Hornby spares, part of a valve gear set for a 2-8-0 Class 28xx loco. I got them here:
https://www.petersspares.com/index.jsp?searchStr=X8834W
There are probably better alternatives out there - something a bit smaller, maybe. Anyone?
The cylinders are scratch built from plasticard and sections cut from the barrel of a disposable propelling pencil - the sort you buy in packs of 10 at the supermarket.
Alan
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4 hours ago, Quarry-Steam65 said:I’m planning on turning a pug into a Hawthorn Leslie (3865 ‘Singapore’ specifically)
the boiler may be a bit long but I just need to add a cab back plate, move the safety valves and whistle.
could anyone give any advice on extending the saddle tank?plastikard perhaps?
I did something similar, using a Caledonian Pug to make an approximation of a shunter built in 1914 by LMS NCC to work the dock lines in Belfast. I used the thinnest plasticard I could find to extend the saddle tank by wrapping and bonding this over the existing tank, at the same time extending it to a new fabricated front end. I had to re-profile the tank before doing this and you might too but the moulding is pretty thick and there's plenty to work with. Hope the pics explain this better.
Good luck with your project.
Alan
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Just a thought. There is a fair bit of flex in these Hornby chassis and sometimes screwing the body on too tight can cause them to distort, which might make the gears bind.
Alan
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It's been listed as out of stock on the Knightwing website for quite a while now.
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59 minutes ago, BernardTPM said:
I'd say a 2-3-2 as the front and rear wheels are each on a bogie and unpowered. Would you call a GWR Hall a 2-2-6-0? Of course not (and it would be technically wrong anyway)
That makes sense... I think...
I think thinking is where I went wrong with this
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Thanks for the link PaulRhB. Very interesting. The text describes this loco as a 1-1-2-1-1. However it also says
"the outside road wheels were 3' 9" in diameter, and there was also a rail wheel of the same diameter in the centre of the axle"
so does that make it a 1-1-3-1-1 ?
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Yes. If I was going there, I wouldn't start from here
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Nice to see your article on this layout in January 2020's Railway Modeller Dave. Really enjoyed reading it.
Alan
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Fine work Colm. The Clyde Puffer really looks at home and there's a lovely sense of distance in those photos of 'Moonlight' at the quayside. I built one of those Scalescenes Puffers a while back and was very pleased with the result. I found that rigging the mast with blackened brass wire instead of thread made it less susceptible to getting knocked askew by careless elbows.
Alan
Show us yours - Realistic modelling
in Get Britain Modelling
Posted
As is the rusty metal. Lovely stuff!