creilly81

12 hours ago, Ian Hargrave said:

Yes,well Ray,the photographer has replied for himself as is his right .The question I asked was which one of the two doesn’t look right to you. ?  Because both of them can’t be right,can they  as there is a marked discrepancy in shade

 

The example on the right is….an example from the first issue now a decade or more old…Try a match with the photograph you have supplied with your post. 

 

     With respect to your final summation.on accuracy, the paint finish on this model does not justify the accolade.Posting as one among more than a few who have raised issues for years over poor Hornby paint finish.

To answer your question, the one on the left looks a different shade of green - however, following my visit to the model shop yesterday i looked online last night at various retailers and those that have uploaded actual photo's of the stocked models and found the actual green on the loco's to be correct and the same as i witnessed, identical to the shade in the picture uploaded by GWR fan.

Have you considered maybe sending it back for a replacement and see if the replacement is better? Maybe you go a duff one....Get the retailer to check it before dispatching so you know what you are going to get.

2 hours ago, Ian Hargrave said:

 
“Something doesn’t look right “:? Which one are you talking about,the one one the left or the right?  

What I meant was, the picture itself isn’t right because there is a huge difference in the one of the left which is the up to date model, and how the model actually looks in the flesh.

I’ve seen the actual newly released model for myself and the green is nothing like the light green depicted in the picture nor is the lining yellow as the picture suggests.

the actual model looks extremely accurate….

2 hours ago, MikeParkin65 said:

Just had a quick look in 'Locomotives in details No 5 - Riddles class 6/7', Dave Clark 2006. References to the green cylinder covers (72009 quoted in the text although the photographic evidence shows only 72008) and green firebox sides but no mention at all of the green tops to the running plates. Same in the section for the Brits. I'd really like to see some concrete evidence for this as they really stand out. Some good new pictures of the models on Monk Bar Model Shops facebook page https://www.facebook.com/monkbarmodels/photos/pcb.4389436241123280/4389435554456682/?__cft__[0]=AZUDmiw8Kzx5KN1W-qGKtRnuf6U3MUu4Ms45eA4RnTmFbOCXlFO4ov1qc6dtQ6Phq0Uex0WZ7EwQWGlzZ2_dhDvSD6CSg-D--Z_ptEsoK7OwAsQr4eTdauO-Z2zSYixsyh8&__tn__=*bH-R  for those that have access - I can't copy to this thread as not my images. 

Here is 72009 with the green cylinder covers.... Taken from the Clan Project's website here https://www.theclanproject.org/images/Clans/72009_1.jpg

The photo from your facebook link displaying both models 72004 and 72009 look perfectly ok to me in terms of livery shade and lining colour. 

To me, something doesn't seem quite right with the original picture posted in this thread, which appears to indicate a yellow lining and a more southern green on 72009.....

I've been to my local model shop only this morning and caught a glimpse of the newly release 72009 and it looked identical to the one in the facebook link, which looks fine.....

Hi there,

How can we help or assist if there is no indication as to the exact problems you are experiencing?

kind Regards

chris

Not the best from a marketing point of view, however the actual decoders should be soldered better.

Hi,

With the modifications Hornby issued and put in place for anyone with the earlier release class 800 models, does anyone know if the new releases such as the Hornby R3691 Paddington Bear Class 800 due later this year will have these modifications already applied during manufacturer? 

Thank you!

 

Chuff rate also depends on the speed curve which can be different by retailer so tweaking might be necessary.

Also CV2 and CV5 are important, the latter is set to 240 in our project.

 

Tornado project planned for July/August but need some recordings. Hope Tornado will go back into service soon.

 

Ci sentiamo

 

Locoman

Hi,

I did try your settings that you illustrated when CV2 is set to 2 - and it did form a good basis for which to start, but there is only a brief point in motion when the chuff matches correctly with wheel revolution, even when i've tried tweaking them further.

I hoping it will back soon too - as it's due to come down this way in May to Canterbury.... I'll keep a check on your website.

 

On our A4 model which seems to be similar to Tornado (5 pole motor, not the railroad range) we set

 

Default values: CV2 = 1  -> CV 57 = 244, CV 58 = 126, CV 249 = 9

Basic values if CV 2 = 2  -> CV 57 = 122, CV 58 = 36, CV 249 = 18

Basic values If CV 2 = 3  -> CV 57 = 76, CV 58 = 20, CV 249 = 18

 

Maybe this is helpful for your tests.

 

Saluti

Locoman

 

Hi Locoman,

That's perfect thank you so much for your help. I'll try those later and see how i get on.

Can i ask, does it differ from sound file to sound file in terms of how they are programmed into the decoder by the retailer, as to how the decoder reacts to the adjustments?

It's a shame you don't do a sound file for A1 in question - because you were the first place i checked!!   

Hi all,

I've recently had my Bachmann Tornado DCC sound converted by a certain retailer. I was tweaking the CV settings for a good 2 hours yesterday for the correct wheel to chuff revolution, but cannot get it accurate

I checked all relevant CV settings before i made any changes as i wanted to know the defaults if any problem occurred. 
My understanding is, with the Loksound V4 CV57 and CV58 control the wheel revolution / chuff syncro, however also amending CV2 which is the start voltage can throw all previous settings out if this is changed afterwards.
As standard CV2 was set to 6 which is far too high meaning the loco wouldn't move off as slow as i'd like.

I changed this down to 1 initially, but had no luck in the fine tuning CV57 and CV58 into something i deem acceptable. I chnaged CV2 to 2 and looked again at CV57 and CV58, and although better, i just cannot get an accurate represntation of the correct chuff to wheel syncro from a standing start to mid speed. Sometimes it appears in time, but then loses it when either speeded up or slowed down. Currently with CV2 set to 2 i have CV57 set to 35 and CV58 set to 18. However the jump in 1 value either way with CV57 and CV58 are too big alteration and it throws the timing completely out.
Amending CV2 to a higher value does appear to reduce the change in sound chuffs much less, meaning a more refined adjustment can be made, however setting the value of CV2 too high and the loco doesn't start as slow as is required.

Is there anything i've missed in these tweaks?

I've also amended CV54 and 55 slightly, to get the running of the loco smooth, but i sorted all the running issues out before making what i thought were the final changes to synchronise the chuff and wheel revs.

Can anyone help?

Thanks very much, most appreciative for the feedback

 No worries!

The loco sshould operate just fine. The only niggling issue I have with that decoder is it seems to take an age and quite a few turns of the control knob before the loco moves off on it's slowest speed setting.

Thanks for feedback so far.

 

Sorry, in a 'senior" moment I typed "Elite" when I really meant "Select" so if anyone has experience with the Hornby "Select" please let me know,

I have a Select also, and again never had a problem with running the E4 tanks with it.

Thanks Nigel,

 

does anyone have any specific experience to add to this?

 

Colin

I have that Bachmann decoder installed in both of my Bachamnn E4's and use the Elite to operate them without a hitch.