Blackeunos

Thanks for the rapid reply, it is the November issue which went on sale from the 5/10 that I am awaiting so it’s not as bad as you thought. I will leave it a day or so before contacting. Still not very good as we are supposed to receive prior to it going on sale.

thanks

I would just like to ask if there is some delay to subscribing readers as I thought subscriber’s received their copy before it went on sale. As today is the 7/10 and I have not received my copy. Have other readers got theirs yet?

regards

stewart

Hi,

not sure I this the correct place but here goes. In the BRM October edition Phill reviews a Back2back gauge with a brand name of Mule. Does anyone know where I can get one please? Tried Amazon an Google but nothing found.

thanks

stewart

Sorry for raising your hopes for a124 it’s just the 5a, thanks for the link 

thanks for the reply’s 

Hi,

can someone recommend a suitable 21 pin chip for Accurascale transpennine  driving car seems to be some doubt as to the one that works best.

thanks

Thanks Bob,

very useful I will see what I can achieve in the next few days if I get the chance.

 Thanks 

stewart

Hi Richard,

just to clarify your reply is it the 2 securing lugs that need to be removed or is it somewhere else?

thanks

Thanks Richard I will have a look at that, not sure if my skills are good enough for that.

Hi Everyone 

hope someone can give me a little guidance on this install. I have the Bachmann class 08 Malcolm model and am trying to fit the Hornby tts sound chip. So far I have the body off and the cab separated I have taken the socket off but not undone any wires. My plan unless someone can suggest a better way is to remove the socket and hard wire the chip in and place the chip in the cab roof. Drilling a small hole in the floor to feed the wires back and either fitting a sugar cube speaker in the cab or where the original socket was behind the grill. Has anyone got a better plan?

 Thanks and best wishes

Just as a final note for this string, installed the Hornby tts chip by removing a section of the lead weight to allow the chip to be fitted above. Placed the sugar cube speaker in front of the weight with a little black tack to locate it replaced the body and all works very well. So thanks to all contributors for their assistance.

Hi Mike,

tried a chip today and all went well no problems so will carry on with the TTS install

regards

stewart 

Hi 

got the nylon bolts from Peters, unfortunately they are too big a diameter my are self tappers as well. However I have checked with a multi meter between wheels and motor terminals with wiring removed and just get an open reading of 1. Which from what I can gleam  is correct. So next stage is to solder in a chip and see what happens, I do intend to use a basic standard chip first rather than the Hornby tss one and then if it blows it’s not too bad. Hopefully the weather warm up a bit and then I can get in the garage to cut the lead weight.

regards

stewart

Hi Mike,

Thanks for the very detailed explanation I was a little confused by RAF96’s instructions and have got some insulated bolts and washers as suggested. However I see that you haven’t used any and neither did Doug Teggin in his conversion https://www.modelrailforum.com/forums/index.php?autocom=custom&page=H-Hogwarts so I was not sure whether they were essential. I intend to follow Dougs line of reducing the lead weight as I will put a sugar cube speaker in front of the weight . I have the Hornby tts decoder.

regards

stewart

Thanks for the reply, however I still do not follow you totally when you say remove left hand nut I assume you mean the Phillips screws, the only hex shape bolt is the one holding the left wire to the chassis. Sorry if I am a bit thick but never done one like this before.

Hi All,

i am after a bit of guidance please I bought a set Torquay Express which includes one of the above But the electrical connections are a little strange to me documentation tells me it is a Ringfield motor but 1 terminal appears to be attached to the chassis  and i assume would short the dcc chip. Can someone give me some guidance on how to sort this out please? I have added a photo

Thanks

Stewart

Thanks everyone I do tend to agree with Richard. I will try but cannot say I hold up any hope.

thanks

I will give it a try, however there was no lights on when the direction was set either forwards or reverse.

thanks

Well I am at a bit of a loss, programmed the chip in power car and then transferred to dummy car, still no lights, turned the chip around still no lights. Tried putting both cars on program track and checking but still no lights on dummy car. Still the lights work with the dummy chip, so I think that will have to do, all I can think that there must be an issue with the chassis wires etc.
thanks fo all the help

Thanks for the reply and very useful info, hadn’t thought of swapping them around sounds like an easy fix if it cures it ,will give it a go and report back in the next couple of days.

Thank you for the replies yes the chip is the correct way around double if not triple checked. The power car lights wrk fine it is purely the dummy car that won’t work with the decoder. Will cv29 work with any decoders  and how do you reverse it or are you talking about a specific maker?

thanks

Hi All

hopefully someone may be kind enough to give some guidance. Just converting to dcc motor car fine, trailing is where I have issues, without a chip the lights work fine no change with direction but that’s expected. When I add a chip no lights, I have tried 2 different chips a Hornby one and Laisdcc both the same results. Double checked dcc Id The gap between the brass/ copper uprights is very tight fit for the chip.

hopefully someone may have an answer.

Hi,

Just bought one of the above (new) via Ebay  and there is a problem if all 4 wheels are on the track it shorts. If I lift the driving wheels off it runs fine. Tried using a set of jumper leads from the controller and if I touch the wires to a front bogie left side and rear bogie right side it shorts. If I touch the wires on both bogies same side either right or let side it runs.  It does have traction tyres one each side not sure if should have 4 or whether 4 would insulate the power bogie. Hope someone can assist please.

Regards

Stewart

problem sorted front bogie on backwards removed and reversed now sorted

Just a quick update as I have solved the issue. Problem was previous owner had taken apart the non powered bogey and put one of the axels back the wrong way meaning on one side was an insulated wheel and a non insulated wheel causing a short. Once I reversed the axel all fine. That's the problem of buying second hand bits. Hope this helps anyone else 

Hope one of you guys might be able help with a problem.I have installed a dcc conversion board that has resisters built in for leds Once on the track all lights work fine motor runs but as soon as it leaves one piece of track the dcc controller shows an issue, Gaugemast prodigy move the dmu back to its original position all OK.have tried holding the dmu and just let the wheels skid and it's fine. Also when I place the dummy car on the track I get an instant issue on the controller.The other issue is when on the program track I can't change the address from the default 3. Have tried another chip still the same. my next step is to try one of the other boards, but thought I would try here first. I should say all my other locos work fine on the track. I have tried the program track with another loco and it's fine.

hope someone can assist please

Thanks again for your advice and suggestions as I am still very much a beginner to dcc and model railways so any advice is always welcome and taken on board.

regards

stewart