AdmiralTrevor

Thank you Cliff,

I do get some satisfaction now from finding out for myself that they only work "one way", and that it wasn't just a fault somewhere in the contacts.

I shall now follow your advice and after we play Plymouth Argyle later today I shall get onto ebay and seek out some resistors; and then decide whether to power them from a 3v battery box or similar [an independent source would make it easier on my "removable" scenery parts which cover stretches of track] or from the Contoller [? the 16v connections in the middle at the rear of the Gaugemaster controller].

Much appreciated; thank you.

Trevor

The vexed subject of LEDs comes up time after time. An LED is a diode. As such it has a 'forward' threshold voltage. (Normally between 1.8v and 3.3v depending mainly on colour) Below that it does not conduct at all, above it, it conducts completely, virtually no resistance. So unless the current is limited by another component , normally a simple resistor, it will quickly burn out. A 1k resistor is always a good starting point, increase if too bright, reduce if too faint. You can use one resistor for more than one LED, but if you're not confident with the calculations, keep it simple.

so.....-   I know this is basics but that's me  -- so if I use 5 LEDs wired to my 16v [and presumably with an on/off switch somewhere] at the rear of my Gaugemaster, should one resistor at 1k usually be OKay?

Today I have experimented with 2 LEDs wired to my track and am pleased with myself in eventually getting some light into them - carefully guessing that I am not putting too much power in via the controller. I have found that they light only when the track is "going" in one direction - and show no life at all when "going" in the other direction. I feel I am making progress - slowly [very slowly] and will concentrate on scenery for a bit until I get more knowledge/experience/advice.

Any comments truly welcomed..

Thanks crompton for your info.

10 street lamps arrived for me today [from UK - not China], but no resistors.

When my two battery boxes arrive from China the experiments will begin.

I am surprised at how thin the wires are on the street lamps. I get the impression that holding several of the wires together when soldering should get the soldering job done by the heat of the iron without peeling back the plastic. We shall see.

THanks again.

I have used a string of LED Xmas lights for lighting my Hornby suspension bridge. Looks OK - but a bit bright I thought-

so now with a bit of yellow paint on the bulbs [from a tester pot] it seems about right.

...thanks crompton,

I know that [not recently though] I have read in the ebay verbals that resistors could/should be used -

but a thing that caught my mind were comments that these lights are for 3v only and would "blow" with higher voltage, and not for use with 12v or 16v ac...........didn't say how many lights per 3v battery  ... so I presumed that resistors were not needed   - we shall see - I might try a couple of lights together with one 3v battery and see if they "live". I hope they will. I can risk a couple of yen finding out. They seem remarkably cheap - but then so do lots of China things -  I am waiting for a wine bottle stopper for less than £1 inc. postage from China. I guess the Chinese working in "the outback" must be working for next to nothing.

Thanks again 

Thanks for that Andy,

My battery boxes are not yet here [from China] but I am not expecting them to have resistors [i have never yet fitted a resistor to anything myself].  

Until I read your comment I did not think about the Xmas LEDs as having resistors in them. I have another unopened box of Xmas LED lights, waiting for a decision as to how to use them.

I have seen the sales on ebay for things like street lamps [LEDs] and their comments that they must be maximum 3 volt [but they don't say how many lamps per each 3v  - but with no mention of resistors].

I have also sent for some LED street lamps, again from China, So when they arrive I shall try to suss out the resistor situation, and then wish myself luck.

Thanks again Andy.

I am pleased with using LED lights from a XMAS box string of battery operated lights - loads for £1.99 from Home Bargains- they stretch full length and beyond along my Hornby suspension bridge and look well [ lights subdued with some yellow paint].

They have the advantage of -

                                            being cheap

                                            avoid wiring to my control box

                                            can be switched on/off simply

                                            two 1.5v batteries should last forever.

                                             they can be placed at some distance away without additional wiring

                                            don't need a resistor

                                            don't need much thought   [often necessary in my case]]

              I have another box of them awaiting inspiration and planning approval.

now this is my question - if I want to use , say, just half a dozen lights for one street can I just cut half a dozen off from the long string of lights? Is it as simple as that - or am I missing something?

I have already sent for two battery boxes with switches [less than than £2 the pair from China] for the LEDs that will be "cut off".

Thank you .

There is only one way to build knowledge and that is to get stuck in, Lima locos being quite simple and robust are excellent for learning on.

Thanks Royal,

It is useful to know that.

Over the last month I have been rebuilding my layout. When testing the track I am pleased with the way that my LIMA locos have rarely derailed, compared with my much more detailed and larger Bachmann locos which need more perfect track alignments to stay on the tracks, which my Limas pass without problems.

Another good idea is to remove the base of the trailing bogie (make sure you keep the wheels the right way round) and lighten the tension on the pick up spring, also clean the axles and lightly lubricate the bearing surfaces.

Thanks Royal,

As well as the rattling 47 I also have two more which are much quieter. The difference is probably the applied knowledge and experience which you and others have. I have noted all of these advices and as and when brave enough to go under the bonnet I shall carefully experiment.

At the moment I am rebuilding my layout following house move.

Thanks again for your suggestions.

The Lima power bogie should run nicely, they growl but jerking suggests dirty wheels or a bad connection between pick up wire and the trailing bogie pivot pin or pin to pick up strip.

Remove the body as described and have a look see.  I think the buffers go through body and chassis so have to come off, mine is/ was modified to have cut away skirts so mine are on the chassis.

 

Lube is a two edged sort of sword, the metal armature bearings like a drop but  oily gears pick up abrasive dirt especially if the track is ballasted which wears the pivots and teeth.

 

The ModelTorque and similar motor conversions run more smoothly and don't have the power and speed of the Lima original which makes the gears last a lot longer but I wouldn't want to try hauling scale length passenger trains at scale speed (100 for a 47/7) with one in the way the Lima original does.   

The Hornby 47 power bogie from earlier years is worse than the Lima, the inline with X04 like armature  is absolutely hopeless with short life plastic  armature bearings, and the Ringfield not much better.   My Ringfield version has been retrofitted with a Hornby Tender Drive unit with is a direct replacement and has nearer to scale wheels if you ignore or fill in the spokes and with matching wheels on the trailing bogie and looks and runs a lot better.  

Thanks Dave,

All points noted. Your experienced comments are appreciated.

Take the body off... (Remove all 4 buffers and it will unclip)

 

The only place I ever oil lima locos is on the motor spindle.  it looks like a ball bearing in the centre of the motor.  put a drop of light machine oil on that, and on the other side behind the cog.

Run it for a few minutes to allow the oil to work its way in.

 

If the gears are dry, I use a little white grease.

 

Other than that, It shouldn't need anything else.  Lima motors are pretty robust and don't need a tremendous amount of maintenance.    The main thing is keeping the wheels clean!

Thanks 4U - that's what I will do.                      Trevor

I have a Lima class 47 with the usual Lima rattling motor - but this one also runs jerkily.

Can someone please tell a complete novice -

1 - where can I put oil on parts that can be seen without removing the body shell

and 2 -

where should I put spots of oil that can be seen when the body shell is removed.

Easy when you know how I suppose. I don't.

Thanks for any one's help