The Tri-ang scale modeler

Hello, I have a unique (Hopefully) inquiry, I'm converting the Meccano Percy to 2 Rail Battery, I'm wanting to use the original switch but am having troubles with connections, I've gone for a Marx 401 American Battery Operated chassis (A Photo has been uploaded Below!) the model goes forward and reverse (Currently in reverse) at one speed! I really want to use a 9 volt battery for my sake of keeping things simple, that and the two 1.5 volt D2 Batterty design is "Horrible" in my personal opinion because from experience the contacts/switch breaks off in reloading the model with new batteries

I'm converting it to Battery for connivance, and for portability plus for much longer operating sessions as I intend to have this around the Tree this year, Hopefully with a Dinky 1:43  Double Decker Bus as Bulgy Bus, anyways this is the current progress and inquiry, I'm in need of assistance with the electrics of this model, I cannot get the current to go through! and when it does, it only Wants to go in reverse, I'm not sure what is the matter I DID end up reversing the red for a black wire in Hopes that would work, anyways here is a photo to spark curiosity, I'm converting Percy to utilize a 9 volt Battery, I will use Bicycle weights to weigh the model down... 

 The Model has two contacts, ones I'm not sure how they work, I'm assuming ones for grounding like on a lot of 3 rail electric trains (Such as Hornby Dublo), anyways when I went to run the model without the resistor (a 1kohm resistor was suggested to drop voltage down 6 volts) and touching the contact on the electric motor it works Very well, it would make a good shunter if I left it at that, but I wasn't pleased with the results....

Have a nice Day! 

Adding to this section was a mistake on my part, if any moderator sees this can they move it to an appropriate section of the website if possible?

Hello! its been quite a while I'm getting into N gauge now a lot (Regardless my screen-name being "The Tri-ang Scale Modeler" an account I haven't last used since 2017!) , as still modeling some OO scale items, which will go around the tree this year! but not having the Room for OO on a table I'm very much exploiting my space for OOO and N I have a few inquiries about a few models which I have bought over the past year or so and I cannot wait to Finish them but with some help from you guys since I'm assuming some of you may have had the same problems in the past, and I'm proudly sprouting my own N gauge layout as well 

I have made a bit of a mistake by removing the brush contacts and the Television Suppressor from a Treble O Lectric F7, I want to replace them but don't know where to begin! (Don't want to get a new motor either) I've tried replacing the contacts using a couple paper clips which did not work, as I've reversed the commentator completely by accident which was a complete mistake!  not paying to much attention to where I was cutting the drive axle before, it would be appreciated to know how I can rebuild this vintage mechanical marvel! also the white stuff is superglue and baking soda on the chassis and it works really well! 

I'm also asking in inquiry on a suitable tender chassis for the Lone Star Treble O Trains 0-8-0s for re-powering! I am looking for a New example, Gear Driven to purchase and use maybe from a Diesel? its a project I've been wanting to finish now for a while, (Several Months) I am going to scratchbuild the 0-8-0 tender chassis to look like the Lionel Pennsylvania Flyer, the Lone Star 0-8-0 Dummies were the only thing I could get within my budget, which isn't really fantastic but i"m grateful for what I do get,  plus I think restoring them will be fun since I own an airbrush now!   I'll show the one I've done in the past, I'm looking for something like Graham Farish that might be able to pull a 5 or 10 car long train, depending on the class,  it would be appreciated as well, the con rod less 0-8-0 will be used for spares since nobody recreates 3D printed parts 

The Lone Star 0-8-0s I'm modeling a pair of Scottish Twins from a VERY Popular British Television Series albiet a Parody Version of the show that uses Lionel models to tell rather adult stories....

The first "plan of attack" was to purchase a clockwork motor. purchased one for $20 in a Commodore Vanderbilt, then dunking the motor into a glass bowl of vinegar then bruising off the majority with a tooth brush ... It worked wonders, however needs refining and the reason for that is the rust started to collect again I bought it because, I am in love with O gauge clockwork! an wanted something that Marx  had done before, but I am assuming those sets are considerably rarer. and wanted to produce a unique example.

Then the second was to take the body shell off the 490 and cut a slot  in the section where  the break lever where the break leaver goes, then I painted it to give it a Military theme. The reason being I remember seeing a Marx 1666 repainted into a  similar Military scheme,but much more professionally and feeling inspired to copy it, but with a 490 and yes I am still learning.  And yes guy's... I am aware that it looks like an utter disgrace but I've gotten far better at modeling! Honestly ans noted in the proceeding photographs, as this was taken (the 490) between 3 and 5 months ago.

Yes I know I am in need of some Tamyia masking tape and Humbrol Maskol and I will acquire those for this project

The loco has a clockwork motor produced between 1933 and 1938 which is what I was referring to earlier.

The locomotive body shell I am not sure when it was made, probably somewhere  between 1960 and 1970

and I plan to refine, it further more I can get a hold of some or Vallejo US Army Green and their primer from Amazon..

 and I will have to import some varnish used for a WarGamer's mini's to seal the paint,  as I originally used nail polish 

something which I learned about from another guy on YouTube who uses for wooden models and does excellent work

, but doesn't work entirely well on plastic.To be honest I should have left the coat as is, before I put on the poor sealer,

I know not the best idea.

Further more I am aware around the switch area needs cleaning with a rasp, or modeling file. I'll do that soon,

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The steam locomotive I know, it looks bad. but it's worse on the other side.

This was before I had gotten  far better at modeling  in "general" with testing my technique at producing more realistic and plausible Battle Space equipment, and comparing these to actual HO equipment looks pretty spot on. it just needs some touch ups, further more I am aware on bogie is less detailed on one side, it's their as a place holder. I plan to purchase another detailed bogie 

from the exact same company..

Begging of a modeling process. 

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Well to a start this may seem like a butcher rather than a mod to some but it'll make sense, quite a while ago. I was on eBay looking to bid on something peculiar (railway related) I have heard of these before however the clockwork mechanism aspect isn't very reliable so I bid on it, won it and it arrived with another clockwork loco with No.1... so  in a chance to improve it a month ago I bought what 7 or 9 people were waiting to purchase, I snatched it up immediately on Sunday. it was an HO scale item of an American Prototype, a month, and a trip to the hospital later. I finally opened my parcel. I was slightly disappointed the main reason and so far only that I know of was the funnel was squashed, and then decided due to technical modeling judgement. Decided to omit the shell all together of the USA prototype that is. That was one to two days ago. then I have glued (successfully) the Thomas 0-4-0 body shell with two part on with *Loctite's Two Part Translucent Epoxy* which i'd recommend! (okay, I know for a fact that I should have waited till the application of paint and kit-bash plus, to the fill in of the key hole, but the temptation was a bit too strong on my end.)

NWR No.1  in early 1985 condition, modified. on the start of the Woodland Scenic's layout Super 4 upgrading project.

Plans:

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plans for the cab for the cab will be more complicated,  I will acquire some Evergreen styrene to produce a rear back plate representing a buffer beam, I will then cut pieces that i'll fit into the and back then I'll warm a piece of styrene in the microwave so it's pliable which is how i'll make the roof.  i'll glue those onto the locomotive with Epoxy (I am not sure if Hobby cement would work,)  i'll paint the two cab parts first (with Tamyia Brilliant Blue) and the cab roof a Humbrol acrylic Matt (black) Further more, when I get around to modifying the cylinder's soon. I will be using enough Milliput so I can round off the edges, then paint that scarlet and the end of the cylinders with Tamyia Brilliant Blue by detail brush.I'll also use Kadee couplers as well plus the wheels do need attention, i'll do those with a finer dealing brush.

Prototype:

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What I am trying to model is the Strasburg Railway's NWR No.1 which won't be modeled after the full scale "common" replica's,

but the railway built it's own Thomas after H.K. Porter locomotive that they highly modified...

Reasoning and logic

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The reason why I am going with an 0-4-0 chassis is because no other one's (that I know of) will fit plus it was a budget option, since a Bachmann Thomas in America might cost $50, sure the Bachmann Junior E2 "Stuart or No.2005" might cost quite a bit more of than tenner, but that's just a waist of income. And I don't think it would just be worth it, plus the older models have something too them. Especially the fun of kit-bashing together, just that re-kindling spirit of a days gone by!

Weathering:

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As noted British locomotive's or in this case "imitators" are prone to getting much more filthy than their sister's, or in this case brother's so what I am going to do is add some Humbrol weathering powder "Smoke" and No.49 Matt varnish  in for a work environment. Although I am aware of keeping their loco's clean when ever they received the chance before pre-grouping.

DCCing an 0-4-0 or Train Tech FSX?:

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To be honest I never really tried to learn DCC and I do not have the cash for such system. So I am going with the Train Tech version that I can install in a coach or truck... or if I were to go the N gauge route, I could install it in the small interior in the cab,that could in theory work! plus this is sort of a budget build, so that's applicable... if they ship to the states?

The look I am going for:

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I am not much of a fan of the CGI stuff, sure they did wonder's' recently in the past 2-3 years and I really enjoyed it (which is ironic I know)  Although i'll keep it as a version of the TV model series limited to seasons 1-7 or the Gullane as I remember seeing a lot more of that in the early 2000's  even as late as 2008 before the switch to computer generated images.

Awesome work guy's! haven't any of you lot experimented with N scale Walschaerts valve gear on a TT loco? or in general including re-purposing super detail parts from a N scale locomotive's (rivet's lamps, railings, external lamp generators etc.,.) which could have considerably produce an attractive look for a competition. I mean I know N gauge is a few MM off. But the theory,  it could work.  Then again if you had already mentioned this somewhere else... Than I apologize, plus any ideas for a Corgi Hall class modification, I know I've said the latter and will take that into account, but specifically finding the right shade of scarlet that Corgi used for their Hogwarts Castle is interesting to find, especially one's that blend in... any ideas on appropriate firms? I'll see what I an do photograph wise. I just need to acquire some translucent two part epoxy first from the Home Depot for reinforcing the plastic cement first...

Hi guy's I am doing a bit of a complicated  project, I am modifying my Tri-ang 1950's R.55 diesel to a CD Rom motor to work on Hornby Doublo Track (I've shortened the chassis of a HST from Hornby Railways too do so) but I am curious about the actual conversion standpoint. I understand you could have gotten a miniature power converter for S scale American Flyer trains (AC-DC) from Radio Shack, but the two stores that I've been too closed and needed some input of where I could get something smaller, that I could acquire for the performance of the locomotive.  when I get around to making the power pickups and I am curious on  how to do that as well, do If you lot could inform me on any RM Web magazine tutorials or DVD's that I could acquire, that'll be pretty excellent or just simply explain of what I might be able to do. and yes I am aware this diesel needs touch ups and a spot of gloss varnish, what would you recommend to get that Doublo feel?

And I do apologize for all the Edits, just a bit confused of the information I should type  

Hello, I have a project idea in mind that I am pretty sure will work, however I am going to need some pretty good idea's here! I needed some track for a TT gauge.layout, built in my garage with the railway located in Britain that'll fit onto a 4x8, I have seen a chap named Gary Hall who on YouTube converted a piece of what looks like HO scale piece of Piko track to HOmTT. But how he did it really provides the curiosity! plus it is super hard for my to acquire Tri-ang series one track here in America, let alone series two..