mattrose

The wagons I'm going to be using the Kadee #19 on have the NEM pocket on a swivel like frame under the wagon body so should hopefully work.

I'm unsure which hunt couplings would work instead, I'll have to have a trial and error period of couplings.

26 minutes ago, Il Grifone said:

The Kadee height gauge is to ensure that all the couplings are are at the same (and correct) height. It also ensures the trip pin is set at the right height (1/32" above the rail). These settings are based on the prototype US coupler height in H0 scale (and are the same as the settings for the Peco Simplex couplings and the coupling bar for tension locks.

I thought I could manage without until I acquired one!

 

Knuckle couplings (of any type) are not really compatible with buffers. Their use requires either an overscale inter-vehicle distance or short buffers (or both).

How does the kadee height gauge work? Isn't it just fixed in one position and if the wagon has a NEM pocket that will be a set height as well?

Or can you get different height NEM pocket couplers?

Thanks.

Good Morning,

I am looking to switch most of my wagons and coaches to Kadee's leaving the locos and end stock on tensionlocks till I'm ready to do all locos.

Which length would people recommend for Dapol IOAs and JNAs?

Also, what is the aim of the standalone height gauge?

Thanks.

3 minutes ago, The Stationmaster said:

Could you post a plan because from this it sounds as if all you have is a passenger running line (or lines - two platforms) and a siding connection into the yard,  If that is correct there would only be the signals for that, all the yard pints woud be worked by hand levers and apart from the exit to teh running line there would be no signals in the yard.

 

Have a look at this link/downlaod to see how it might be done and click on the link with a grey background  in the left hand column for Balloch etc (and note the AX numbered signals which were of course operated by a lever frame) -

 

https://www.s-r-s.org.uk/ArchiveSignals/brscot.php

 

Below is one of the original layout plans which I inputted into the track software.  (The design has changed since and it isn't all straights or as compact as it looks, because I just wanted to make a quick drawing)

At the far end the two lines (on the far right) which join, run down into two platforms, with an option to go into a headshunt / loco holding siding. From there you can move along to one of two headshunts/sidings before dropping into the sheds and fuel road etc.

There would be three signals for the station platforms + loco sidings. And then a single signal before it splits at the far end, with one for coming back into the station as well.

There would also be a few ground signals to let you out the yard which has catch points fitted. But the majority of the yard is un-signalled, with signals to let you out of the yard, and running on the mainline.

I think I am probably going to use Cobalt S Levers to control the points and see what others methods there are to use levers to operate 2 or three aspects and if not, just use a rotary switch.

I guess a timer could be used so once the lever is pulled the signal then works through a timing sequence to green. 

The layout has a mainline which runs into a station and from there drops into the yard. There are two platform starter signals (2 or 3 aspect), a mainline siding (2 or 3 aspect which will have a shunt signal attached) and then there are a few ground position signals dotted around. There are then 16 sets of points. 

8 minutes ago, johndon said:

There are three different switches built in to the base.  Not sure how you'd operate a 3 aspect signal though as the switches are on/off...

I might have to look at either two aspect or use a rotary switch. 

However could it be worked with one lever to get red to yellow and then another to take yellow to green. However I assume that might be either impossible or need a lot of electrical work. 

9 minutes ago, johndon said:

DCC Concepts do levers with the catches:

 

https://www.dccconcepts.com/product/cobalt-s-lever-single-pack/

I guess these can be linked electrically to 3 aspect signals and gaugemaster point motors? 

46 minutes ago, Andrew1974 said:

You could try here?

 

http://modratec.com

Just looking at modratec, they look good for interlocking, but I would ideally like a frame with the catches on the levers. The scalefour society frames look nice, however I don't quite have the ability to assemble a kit of that quality and get it right.

Hence, why I was looking to see if people offer a building services or if any products come pre-built. 

Hi,

I am currently building a shunting layout but would like to control the points and signals from a lever frame if possible. The frame would require 22 levers, 6 of which controlling colour light signals.

What options are there out there for lever frame production? Are there options to buy fully built frames or does anyone offer building services?

Any help would be much much appreciated.

Thanks.

Hi,

Does anyone know if Shawplan is still trading?

I'm looking for some DP45-09LW 'Western Shaped Lamp Hooks'.

Thanks. Matt

The chamber is on now and gives a good sound. Better than without. The holes are also filled so it is airtight.

To fit the speaker we used the following tools.

- small cross head screwdriver

- Foam service cradle (Peco)

- blue tac

To start with you will need to remove the body of the chassis. I would recommend using a PECO service cradle to hold the loco in position, be careful if your loco has any fragile parts on the roof or nose. For example an antenna on the end of the nose on the 37. To remove the body you can use a small screwdriver with a crosshead tip. Be careful when removing the screw, to not lose them or to ruin the head of the screw. There are 6 screws on the chassis of the class 37, four on the four corners of the model and two in the centre near the fuel tanks.

Once inside the 37, you will see a long printed circuit board towards one end of the loco. At the other end of the board is a culvert for the speaker to sit in. This may be covered with an array of wires. On the circuit board, raised up will be a blanking plate, this covers the 21 pin socket. 

You will need to remove this blanking plate, but be very careful as to not bend any pins. The plate will be stiff to take off so be very careful and don't rush through the process. Once you have removed the plate you can insert your chip, this may be connected to the speaker so be careful not to damage it.

The chip can only go onto the pins one way to make sure it is the right way and if you are unsure check as you could wreck the pins and it may not work. Sit your chip onto the pins making sure it is in the right way, you will then need to firmly push it down into place. The chip may be tough to push and then suddenly drop. This is as the pins link to the chip so you know it is fully in place.

You can then place the loco on the track to check that it works fine. I usually only sound the horn and save the rest of the sounds till the shell is on.

I used a Loksound V4.0 20x40 speaker, this came in a sound chamber casing. I first tried to fit this into the chassis but the roof wouldn't come down securely. I then removed the speaker from the casing and taped it into the chassis and used it like that for a day.

The sound was good but when it was in the casing it was so much clearer, therefore I decided to reopen the body and place the speaker back into its casing. However, I needed to chop off the bottom of the casing to make it lower.If you do this you need to make sure that you tape over the bottom of the casing to make it airtight as this is what gives the clearer sound. I then placed some small amounts of blue tac over the four screw holes in the speaker, and this time the body just slid straight into place. This overall gave a clearer and louder sound which is advisable when you have a rumbly class 37.

Once you are happy with the sound quality you can use some small amounts of tape (I used black insulation tape) to hold the speaker in place. Then you can place the body back on and screw securely. Then enjoy the wonders of a sound fitted locomotive.

Notes:

- The more airtight you make the speaker the louder the sound will be.

Here is my method for inserting a sound chip into a Bachmann class 37. The locomotive I used is a modern style class 37; 32-377A.

I bought the 'Class 37/4 WD (Legomanbiffo) With DriveLock' from DC Kits

The speaker comes wired to the 21 pin chip so doesn't require any soldering. If you purchase it from DC Kits

Speaker now back in the casing but the casing has been cut lower, fan screw mounts made shorter and the casing made airtight. It is about 10 times clearer and louder now.

The sound quality/volume will be very poor with the speaker casing removed, a better option would have been to cut the original fan mounting points flush with the bodyshell roof (as already suggested above by Charlie) leaving the speaker enclosure fitted.

I may do that in the future but I'll need to get some equipment to cut them. How would you recommend cutting them?

Sorted!

I have removed the speaker from its casing and sat it in the culvert in the chassis. The roof now comes down and secures.

Sorted!

Removed the speaker from its casing and so the body now fits down and secures.

I have got a V4 Loksound decoder with a 20x40mm speaker from 'DC Kits'. For a class 37/4 Large Logo.

I have placed the speaker in the recess of the chassis, with the lugs at either end removed. I have also removed the fan housing unit from the roof, leaving only the fan held in with some insulation tape. The speaker was supplied in a black box, and can't sit fully in the chassis.

When I lower the body onto the chassis it comes down but doesn't reach the bottom. Leaving a 5mm gap. The speaker is on top of all the wires but they are spread out to make the speaker sit lower in the chassis. Would a low profile sound chamber be smaller in depth?

Any ideas why this might be?

We have tried the body both ways and it gets down the same amount before pivoting around the middle.

In mine,

We have removed the fan surround in the roof of the 37 leaving the fan held in place with a piece of insulation tape. The two lugs on either end of the speaker have been removed. The roof will come down over the model but it won't get fully down and clipped in secure. About a 5mm gap.

Any ideas on why it won't go fully down?

So I have received the 37 and ran it in, fitted DCC chip and checked the sound. However, we cannot seem to get the roof to fix down.

We have removed the fan surround in the roof of the 37 leaving the fan held in place with a piece of insulation tape. The two lugs on either end of the speaker have been removed. The roof will come down over the model but it won't get fully down and clipped in secure. About a 5mm gap.

How did you paint the headlamp hooks?

The two western ones in yellow and the lower ones in white.

What methods do people recommend to paint the hooks as a similar colour to the yellow on the 37? and what colour grades or brands do people suggest?

I presume I'd need to buy both of these for the two types of hook that 37403 has

DP45-0924 Lamp Brackets (Round & Square ended)

DP45-09LW8 'L' Shaped Western Region Lamp Brackets for Classes 37/42/43 & 52A4mm

(http://www.shawplan.com/fittings.htm)

(My photo)