SteveS

Hi all

it has been awhile since I’ve logged on this site. I’d like to know why on earth do we now have ads running in this site. Yes you can close them at will, but they forever pop up every time you scroll a page, I am tired of all these ads regardless of site forum etc…I hope I’m not the only one who feels this way. 

thanks Steve.

Hello everyone,

Was wondering would anyone know as to how many car h points there where at Hemyock say from 1950 onward. I have a couple of books that show 2 that are close to the station,  it can’t seem to see if there was one located by the goods shed.

any help would be appreciated. I’m want to try to model this town in 7 mm.

SteveS

West Chicago IL

USA

Hello everyone,

Hope everyone is staying healthy and safe. 
 Right now I’m mainly in armchair mode mainly due to some major reconstruction of my home that has left all my railway stuff stashed in a storage unit. 
 

I’m still mulling over O-14 and the small layout that I posted earlier this year.  Anyhow me mind got thinking the different between O-14 vs On2. 2 foot in British O is 14 mm( obviously) while American  2 ft is 12.8 mm.  Precision Scale does list On2 flex track. #4983. A box of 4 3 foot pieces is $46.00 according to latest catalog. 
 

anyhow has anyone used this flex track. Any thought or input appreciated.
 

anyhow, just letting my mind wander, 

Happy holidays to everyone

Steve

West Chicago ILL. USA

Thank you for the kind words Joe.  Right now everything I want to do is sort of on hold. Have a huge house project that deals with replacing 2 foundation walls. I was reading the instructions in the Ruston loco kit and it talks about soft soldering. Still trying to understand it and just what materials I need. I guess I need mainly the solder and flux. 

What do you use as a base to hold the foam core. My guess might be 1x2 lumber. 

Is the foam core and cork glued together.

Did you follow Roy’s instructions when it comes to building and wiring the small turnouts.

Thanks for any help.

Steve

Any thought on using Kadee n scale couplers

Still in the playing stage. Yes I think I might lay a foot or two of track and see what happens. 

hello all,

Well with this darn virus running around the world, thought I’d spend some time with a little layout planning. 
Benn sort of dabbling with O-14, I’ve gotten a KB Scale loco, a few wagons and a few other bits and bobs. along with the track stencils from the KB Scale website.  
I've been playing with these stencils to come up with a layout on a sheet of foam core about 20x30 inches in size.

There are 5 sidings

One is the fiddle where clay comes from the pit

Two is the clay dump

Three finished brick from the kiln

Four brickyard for loading to either standard gauge railway or truck loading.

cant recall what the fifth one I planned to use it for. I did have a reason. 
Now if I can get the photo I took uploaded you will see.

Dava, 

thanks for showing, I’ve ordered the roller gauges and jigs and rail bender.  Right now my cellar is in complete disarray due to some work that is being done down there.  That in itself is another story. Anyhow just playing around with the paper templates on some foamcore. 

Hello Dava,

I know your post is a little old, But I'm trying my hand at @ft narrow gauge. The points you made do you find them easier to build vs. the Ray Link industrial points. Ive been reading about the Ray Link points and they have a different way  of powering them etc...

Thanks

Steve

I just received the replacement wheelsets in the post today from KB Scale. I want to give them a public thank you for the help. It’s much appreciated.

I did send an E-Mail to KB Scale explaining the problem. I did receive a reply back. They are going to send me replacement wheel sets. I appreciated the quick reply from them, and will see what happens when I get the replacements.

Steve

Hello All 

Just recently received my 0-14 sampler set from KB Scale. Looks all quite interesting. I put together the flat wagon kit.  While it went together easily, when it came time to install the wheelsets, they immediately went out of gauge. Trying to get them back in gauge and keeping them square on the axle was a nightmare. One wheel the hole seemed rather big. I got them square as best I could and used super glue to keep them in gauge, the wheels wobble a bit.

is this a problem with other folks assembling these kits or is this just one off problem that I managed to get.

Answers will depend on whether I take this experiment in 2 ft gauge any further.

steve

Well I guess is a cheap way of finding out what 0-14 might look like.  Rail is ME code 83 superglued to what might pass as ties     (sleepers) . The truck is an HO scale truck where I re-guaged the wheel sets. All this gone with a micrometer and a scale rule.

Steve

Hello All, 

I’ve recently been intrigued by O-14 from a BRM article in the August issue.  Did a lot of web surfing about the subject. It seem that KB Scale has a decent selection of O-14 stuff which I think is some of the Roy Link stuff mentioned. I’d love to give it a go and see what it’s like without breaking the bank. KB scale had a sampler set for £13 but says it’s sold out. I wonder if it would be available again.

Right now just giving thoughts about 2 foot narrow gauge in some sort of industrial setting.

Hello everyone 

been awhile since I’ve  been on line here. Am looking for photos drawings, etc...on the coal screens (which I think is our terminology) for structure used in loading coal.  I’m trying to do a layout based on a coal mine that loads coal similar to PGE’s moving coal layout  which I has visited a few years ago. 

Anyhow these structures I see on different layouts while they may differ in size seem to have the same basic  design. Are these structures scratch built?  what kind of materials are used as to what appears to be a brick structure set upon steel beams.

thank you from the USA

Steve

West Chicago, Illinois 

He looks very nice. Nice paintwork on Fred. I just recieved and O scale driver and fireman for my Minerva Pannier. I had a nice enjoyable hour or so painting them.. Ill have to post them as these are also my first attempt at painting figures.

Steve

Well it has been awhile since I talked about the O scale layout I started earlier this year. Not t much real progress per say. But at least getting some play value out of it. Along with fine tuning trackwork and so forth. The layout is 16 inches wide be 12 feet slong using 2 6 foot baseboards. Turnouts are #5 and are handlaid and the track is flex track. The baseboards above it is my HO scale American layout. I wanted to give my hand at the British way of doing baseboards. ( smaller dimensionally lumbernot physically connecting the track between boards etc...) The layout is wired for DCC only the points use Tam Valley Frog Juicers For frog polarity. My original thought was to make this a colliery layout with two sidings on the left in the fourth photo down as my connection to the mainline. There is another part of me want to add say a sector plate at one end and make it an end of branch terminal. Thought comments welcome.

.

Personally I'm quite surprised that this idea of modelling a modern Freelance Company hasn't taken off - in any scale - in the UK, especially as the real railway has been privatised for some time, now. The idea is much more popular with American outline modelling.

There quite a few freelanced layouts in the states .Some well know. After working with a prototype railroad I went to a freelanced shortline layout. While there is a basis for its existence it’s just something I made up but it it also loosely based on a prototype shortline in the Midwest.

Hi, does anyone have any bright ideas for cramming O gauge into 12ft by 2?

I built an O scale layout that is 16 inches wide and 12 feet long. If you check my profile it is a post I made back in February titled “New Layout”

Steve

I know this is an old posting up it kind of rings true with a lot of us. I too seem to be going through his period of lack of activity on model trains. At times I almost have to force myself into the train room to do something. I think at times I want to box it all up other than a few odd things.. but right now I’m just leaving it sit as I know the desire will return....like another poster said he’s enjoying the armchair aspect of our hobby... At least I know I’m not alone.

Steve

Glad you are sorted and happy.

 

Now, you know that you can change the balance of the sounds by setting the volume of each sound individually by CVs don't you.............  ?

 

Best regards,

 

Paul

After getting this all sorted out. Went to the Digitrax site and did some looking at throttles while I have a DT 400R , I found out the DT402 and DT 500 series throttles will allow access beyond CV 255.they will go up to CV 1024 if I read it correctly.

Steve

Paul

First off thank you kindly for the help you have offered. I guess I’ll try again this evening and see if I can get it right.

Regards

Paul

After messing about for 4-5 hours I finally got the Pannier to co operate with me. Yes the CV 7 trick worked nicely. I had to set CV 29 to a value of 39 to get the direction correct with the throttle. Anyhow long story short it’s working correctly with a nice volume.

Regards

Steve

Steve,

 

The workaround I gave you works. I used it may times with all sorts of DCC controllers. Perhaps you were pressing 'enter' at the wrong points.

 

CV 29 is used to set parameters of many things. (One of which is the 4 digit address parameters). Stabbing in a random number will almost always give results you are not expecting.

 

The way to change the direction parameter (alone) is to first set up everything else to work correctly, including 4 digit addressing. Then, read and note down the current value in CV29.

 

If this value is an odd number, subtract 1 from that number, but if it is and even number add 1 to it. Then use the revised number as the value in CV29. This ensures that only the direction parameter is changed.

 

Your model will then run in the correct direction.

 

Best regards

 

Paul

Paul

First off thank you kindly for the help you have offered. I guess I’ll try again this evening and see if I can get it right.

Regards

Not yet gotten busy with other stuff. Will let you know tho

Steve

Hi Paul.

Finally got around to playing with the setting you talked about. It did not want to co operate with me. Seems when I changed CV TO 110 everything just shut off and died. Not sure what I did. I did contact Chris and I was able to reset the entire decoder back to factory settings. At least everything came back alive and worked.

Once I programmed the engine number to a 4 digit number it worked fine except it ran backwards. I changed CV 29 to a value of 7 it would not work with a 4 digit address but would work properly with a 2 digit address with the correct direction.

Then I tried to adjust CV’s 2,5, and 6 . When I did that it quit running again. Back to factory reset again. Changed address to a 2 digit number changed CV 29; to a value of 7 so direction would correspond with throttle. For the moment it works just fine now. Sound included.

How did it get messed up? I’m not sure. Most likely something I’m not doing something right. Just my thought though I think one should enclose a listing of what all the different settings are when a new model is released. I have spent the better part of 3 hours trying to get the engine to run. I’m not technically savvy when it comes to this DCC stuff. I’m really don’t care for having to have a computer when it comes to model trains. I love DCC it has made wiring a layout much easier.

I guess there are certain aspects of the hobby I’m not too terribly fond of. OK enough of me wining. I’m appreciative of the help everyone has supplied me. Thank you all

Steve

Have you tried the CVs I gave you? Have you been able to reduce the volume to suit?

Not yet gotten busy with other stuff. Will let you know tho

Steve